Husqvarna 55 to Stihl?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

XP85648

New Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2017
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Location
WI
Here's my scenario that I would like input on- I've tried to research this more specifically, but can't seem to come to anyone with the proper experience...
My dad has a Husqvarna 55 saw- it's tired, and needs to be replaced- no he doesn't want to rebuild it. We used to have a pair of Husqvarna dealers close to us- one became a Stihl dealer, and the other closed. So looking at a Stihl now- which is fine with me, but need to discern a couple things. Currently we run a 20" bar with .058 3/8" chain. The Stihl dealer looked at me somewhat confused when I asked if could use my current chains. I asked about the gauge- they weren't sure and said they only sell .050. From what I have read that seems to be the standard for Stihl. My dad is the kind of guy who has never met a chain he isn't willing to try/buy. Read that as: I have about 15 chains for the Husqvarna that I would like to keep instead of starting a new collection. Looking to buy the MS 261 model. Dad liked the handle isolation and the compression relief start. Yes, I know that 20" is on the large side for that saw, but in reality we use the 20" bar more for reach than anything else- rarely do we have it buried for any significant amount of time.
So give me your thoughts- should I just put everything Husqvarna in a box and get rid of it? Can I buy an aftermarket bar for the stihl that would run .058? Can you provide a link for that or make a reccomendation on who/where to call? From the reading I have done the sprocket should work on both, and the same sharpening equipment would be used for both- do you agree?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Pete
 
I personally do not know of anyone who makes .058 bars for Stihl because as you have pointed out, they normally are either .050 or .063. Not saying they might not be out there.

If your chains are in good shape you could sell them with the saw or as a lot separately. You can get a good deal if you shop around online for the right gauge chain for your new saw. Probably the best choice.

You would probably be voiding warranties but I suppose you could take a large mount Husqvarna .058 bar and machine the bar slot larger to accept the larger Stihl studs.
 
I like the newer spring isolated Stihl saws as compared to the rubber mount saws with the exception of the carburetor adjustments( actually the lack thereof) on the newer models. A Husky 55 is classic workhorse saw much like the Stihl 026 family, that even when tired and worn deserve fuel being run through them from time to time. I have a 20" bar on one of my 026 saws, but the one I grab most often is the MS260 fitted with a 16" bar, a .325" chain, fitted with a 8 pin drive. Personally I would send the extra chains with the saw, and opt for the MS261 your dad is looking at with a 20" .325" bar.
 
Welcome to the forum Mr XP.
I would see if you can try the 261 out with a couple various bars and chains at the dealer. If you still prefer the 20" bar then go for it. I would also as John said probably go with a 325 as it will cut a bit faster with that setup, but if you are not cutting with the full length of the bar often it would be fine with a 3/8x20".
Most likely you could buy an aftermarket bar, but if those extra chains are worth anything you could probably sell them on Craigslist and then buy new from the dealer. I'm sure if you let him know how disappointed you are about not being able to use them the dealer will do something to help a guy out :).
Good luck with the purchase,
Brett
 
Unless it has been crushed or run over, the cheapest option is to have that saw rebuilt... it isn't expensive by any stretch of imagination. Just to give an idea a brand new Meteor top end is around $150.

Otherwise if you really feel the need to keep 15 chains in the house, drive an extra mile and get a 455 Rancher. Yes, it has Autotune so some people here will tell you it will set fire to your cat and eat your children, but they are just a bunch of Luddites.
The 455 fills exactly the same niche as the 55 and uses the same chain pitch, so you can reuse what you have available no problem.
 
Unless it has been crushed or run over, the cheapest option is to have that saw rebuilt... it isn't expensive by any stretch of imagination. Just to give an idea a brand new Meteor top end is around $150.

Otherwise if you really feel the need to keep 15 chains in the house, drive an extra mile and get a 455 Rancher. Yes, it has Autotune so some people here will tell you it will set fire to your cat and eat your children, but they are just a bunch of Luddites.
The 455 fills exactly the same niche as the 55 and uses the same chain pitch, so you can reuse what you have available no problem.

When did they switch to autotune? I have had 4 of them in the past and never seen an autotune one. They are good saws, I’m working on one now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Here's my scenario that I would like input on- I've tried to research this more specifically, but can't seem to come to anyone with the proper experience...
My dad has a Husqvarna 55 saw- it's tired, and needs to be replaced- no he doesn't want to rebuild it. We used to have a pair of Husqvarna dealers close to us- one became a Stihl dealer, and the other closed. So looking at a Stihl now- which is fine with me, but need to discern a couple things. Currently we run a 20" bar with .058 3/8" chain. The Stihl dealer looked at me somewhat confused when I asked if could use my current chains. I asked about the gauge- they weren't sure and said they only sell .050. From what I have read that seems to be the standard for Stihl. My dad is the kind of guy who has never met a chain he isn't willing to try/buy. Read that as: I have about 15 chains for the Husqvarna that I would like to keep instead of starting a new collection. Looking to buy the MS 261 model. Dad liked the handle isolation and the compression relief start. Yes, I know that 20" is on the large side for that saw, but in reality we use the 20" bar more for reach than anything else- rarely do we have it buried for any significant amount of time.
So give me your thoughts- should I just put everything Husqvarna in a box and get rid of it? Can I buy an aftermarket bar for the stihl that would run .058? Can you provide a link for that or make a reccomendation on who/where to call? From the reading I have done the sprocket should work on both, and the same sharpening equipment would be used for both- do you agree?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Pete
Well if you decide to sell it let me know how much shipped to 62966 cause Ive got a brand new piston and cylinder right here waiting for it so get me know pleaz
 
Regardless of what that link says, I've never seen one here either. The 465 is autotune and is sold here.
The 455 is not a semi pro saw and weights more than the 55 or the 261 he's looking at by a substantial amount. The 55 has a mag case as does the 261. The OP didn't express an interest in driving the extra mile, if he had I would have said grab up a 555 as thats a great saw for his needs and comes in cheaper than a 261 and will pull a 20x 3/8 nicely. The 555 weighs more than the 261, but close to the 55. The 545 or the 550 would be nice as well, but to me are not the best as far as a one saw plan and he's already willing to spend a bit more on the 261 so why not get the 555 if he was to go the extra mile.
To me having to deal with a dealer in general is "going the extra mile" in the original meaning of the statement, that being a burden that one might be forced to carry even though they do not want to, but that's my opinion ;).
 
Go with the 261, stick with the .050 gauge in either .325 or 3/8" chain since it is the most often stocked chain for these smaller cc saws. If you run Stihl chain you will likely never want to use/run any other if you can keep it sharp and self feeding.
 
Unless it has been crushed or run over, the cheapest option is to have that saw rebuilt... it isn't expensive by any stretch of imagination. Just to give an idea a brand new Meteor top end is around $150.

Otherwise if you really feel the need to keep 15 chains in the house, drive an extra mile and get a 455 Rancher. Yes, it has Autotune so some people here will tell you it will set fire to your cat and eat your children, but they are just a bunch of Luddites.
The 455 fills exactly the same niche as the 55 and uses the same chain pitch, so you can reuse what you have available no problem.

If the Husky 55 is just tired, it might only need a new piston rings or perhaps piston and a ring. Have you had the compression checked?
If the saw hasn't been straight gassed or poor grade oil was used in the mix, the cylinder should outlast the piston rings.
Too bad you aren't in the area, otherwise I'd offer to install a new piston ring or swap the piston for you if it looked like that would address the performance issue.
 
Tell your dad to buy the MS261 anf give you the Husky 55.
Then rebuild the 55 with meteor.
Win win win!

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
Go with the 261, stick with the .050 gauge in either .325 or 3/8" chain since it is the most often stocked chain for these smaller cc saws. If you run Stihl chain you will likely never want to use/run any other if you can keep it sharp and self feeding.

I agree about going for the 261, and I personally like .325 on mine, but if you want to buy stihl bars, then you gotta stick with .063 in that gauge. They can get .325 chain in .050 (might have to order it though), but the bars aren't available in the US, afaik.
 
I agree about going for the 261, and I personally like .325 on mine, but if you want to buy stihl bars, then you gotta stick with .063 in that gauge. They can get .325 chain in .050 (might have to order it though), but the bars aren't available in the US, afaik.

Maybe just a Canadian thing, .050 gauge is carried here in .325 and 3/8" can have .063 brought in in just a couple of days, same price. I run both but I make my own chains from the roll.
 
Maybe just a Canadian thing, .050 gauge is carried here in .325 and 3/8" can have .063 brought in in just a couple of days, same price. I run both but I make my own chains from the roll.

I've heard rumors of .050 gauge .325 bars from Canada. They're not available down here, unfortunately. I'm in the middle of trying to figure out how to run 67dl .325 pitch .063 gauge loops on my husky 350, or at least be able to share a different loop. I'm having a hard time. Apparently there's no such thing as a .063 gauge K095 bar for the husky, and there's no .050 bars for the Stihl. :(
 
I always heard that .325 was smoother but 3/8 was faster. Anyone else?

I've heard that too, but I think it really depends on a lot of factors. Wood species, amount of power available, wood size, etc. I have run 3/8 and .325 on my 261. Both Stihl RS chain. For bucking firewood, 3/8 is fine, stays sharp a little longer I think. For limbing, it's no comparison. .325 is so much smoother and less grabby. Since I mostly grab a bigger saw for bucking (especially since my 036 visited a doctor in NY :)), I'm very happy leaving my 261 set up with .325. It's a lot more user friendly in small wood.
 
I've heard rumors of .050 gauge .325 bars from Canada. They're not available down here, unfortunately. I'm in the middle of trying to figure out how to run 67dl .325 pitch .063 gauge loops on my husky 350, or at least be able to share a different loop. I'm having a hard time. Apparently there's no such thing as a .063 gauge K095 bar for the husky, and there's no .050 bars for the Stihl. :(
Can you adapt a Stihl bar to your Husky?
 
I always heard that .325 was smoother but 3/8 was faster. Anyone else?

I run them both on my ported 026`s, they handle them both on 20" bars but I still prefer .325 hand filed to suit the occasion. You see, I don`t run anything stock, even the chains are modified...:)
 

Latest posts

Back
Top