Husqvarna 570 Chainsaw

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Lester Gillett

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Was looking at one on Craig list and didn't know how good of a deal at $350 it would be? I sure would like to have a
saw that i could run a 32 or 36" bar.

Lester
 
I'd pass on that saw if you want to run that large of a bar. The 570 isn't even 70cc. It works well with a 24" bar. I could see some occasional use with a 32 and full or semi skip but wouldn't want that for full time use.
 
I have a 575xp, the big brother of the 570. Wide power band and overall good saw Imo. I will say i wouldnt want to put any more than a 24" bar on mine for regular use. Not sure if the 570's had same bearing/case issues the 575s did, but thats a concern as well. Mines an '06 and has probably only 50 tanks or so but no problems at this point. Most, me included, would tell you to pass for that price.
 
I've got a 570. Got it a month or o ago, to keep down at the farm as a spare. It runs well with a 24" bar with a good sharp chisel chain, but it sure doesnt want any more than that. It is maybe about as strong as my 2166 (365 x-torq) was, stock. I paid $220 for it, and there was another one for sale for $220, as well, on ebay.

I paid $325 for a good running 371xp a couple years ago, and less than that for this 2015 2166 (that is 45 minutes of work getting to and removing the restrictors from being a 372 x-torq).

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Was looking at one on Craig list and didn't know how good of a deal at $350 it would be? I sure would like to have a
saw that i could run a 32 or 36" bar.

Lester

Depends on how nice it is. A pro-quality 70cc current model saw in very good condition is easily worth $350
 
Depends on how nice it is. A pro-quality 70cc current model saw in very good condition is easily worth $350

Yes, but this being a "landowner" 68cc saw, and being a little on the anemic and heavy side, these don't seem to be worth as much on the used market, because they're not an "XP" saw. It's precisely why I bought mine (still a good saw that was cheap and would pull a 24" bar), to leave at the farm for my Grandpa and dad to use (instead of the old, heavy, brake-less Echo/JD 80EV), though...

570 - 4.9hp, 14.55lbs
372XP - 5.5hp, 14.3lbs

Mike
 
Yes, but this being a "landowner" 68cc saw, and being a little on the anemic and heavy side, these don't seem to be worth as much on the used market, because they're not an "XP" saw. It's precisely why I bought mine (still a good saw that was cheap and would pull a 24" bar), to leave at the farm for my Grandpa and dad to use (instead of the old, heavy, brake-less Echo/JD 80EV), though...

570 - 4.9hp, 14.55lbs
372XP - 5.5hp, 14.3lbs

Mike
All good points, but it doesn't mean the saw isn't worth $350.

I recently flipped a 570 on Craigslist. It was in very good condition and sold for $400 with a 24" bar and two newer chains.
The 570 may not be an "XP" in power, but it IS the same quality. A worn out broke down 372xp may not be worth $200 in certain markets but may be worth $500 in others.
 
All good points, but it doesn't mean the saw isn't worth $350.

I recently flipped a 570 on Craigslist. It was in very good condition and sold for $400 with a 24" bar and two newer chains.
The 570 may not be an "XP" in power, but it IS the same quality. A worn out broke down 372xp may not be worth $200 in certain markets but may be worth $500 in others.

Oh yeah, they're absolutely good quality saws! I almost made the distinction when I posted, like you did, that it is pro-quality/build, but just isn't an "XP" so the audience is cut down, somewhat. If it's like brand new, nice, then I'm sure it's worth $350. Just depends... I've seen some cobbled together, beat to **** 372's on ebay go for $400+, so anything is worth what somebody is willing to pay for it.

Mike
 
Thanks guys, With so many saws out there and the numbers on the saw how do you know what saw will do what you want? I need a saw that will
handle a 32" bar and has the cc to handle it. I am not a one saw guy so any saw that will do that will be fine. Also it seems that most of the saw
I see that will fit my needs are over priced or seem to be. I have a Homelite 330 with a 24" bar and it works good but just need one that will handle
a 32 as I seem to be getting larger logs then the 24 will handle.
 
Thanks guys, With so many saws out there and the numbers on the saw how do you know what saw will do what you want? I need a saw that will
handle a 32" bar and has the cc to handle it. I am not a one saw guy so any saw that will do that will be fine. Also it seems that most of the saw
I see that will fit my needs are over priced or seem to be. I have a Homelite 330 with a 24" bar and it works good but just need one that will handle
a 32 as I seem to be getting larger logs then the 24 will handle.
As a rule of thumb the Husqvarna saws with a three number model #, the last two number is the CC size of the engine. That is applicable to the two number models as well. For Stihl's, well don't bother trying to understand those model numbers, they make no sense and don't cut worth a darn anyways. ;)

Besides that, another rule of thumb I've heard is 2.5cc for ever inch of bar you want to run. 32" = 80cc class saw.

YOu need to look around in the trading post for a saw. There are some nice saws in there, the hard part is staying in your budget.

This saw is on the older and heavy side but its 85cc and within your budget and would be happy with a 32" bar all day long.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/husqvarna-285cd.302515/#post-6034021
 
BTW, its hard to get a good looking and running 80cc saw for $350. At $350 for 80cc's, beggers cant be choosers. I'd expect to pay about 5 hundo or more for a newer 80cc saw, 650 and more for a perdy one.
 
If you're looking at $350 for 80cc, I'd get a $150-$250 Dolmar 6400 off rental at Home Depot, and put the 84cc ($100) aftermarket to end on it.

Mike
 
Thanks guys, With so many saws out there and the numbers on the saw how do you know what saw will do what you want? I need a saw that will
handle a 32" bar and has the cc to handle it. I am not a one saw guy so any saw that will do that will be fine. Also it seems that most of the saw
I see that will fit my needs are over priced or seem to be. I have a Homelite 330 with a 24" bar and it works good but just need one that will handle
a 32 as I seem to be getting larger logs then the 24 will handle.
i have a 570 and a 575. i can't really tell much difference in power. i mostly run 20" bars on both. longer bars tend to find dirt and rocks more often. however, i wouldn't hesitate to mount a 24" or 32" bar on either saw, if the job called for it. This is one of the great saws. they don't have to scream to have power. when you first use one, you might think there's something wrong. they sound too tame. but when you put the into wood they cut hard.
 
If I was going to put a 32" bar on one, it would have to be a skip or semi-skip. Leaning much on my 570 (with 155psi of compression, stock) on a buried 24" bar with a brand new Stihl RS chain will stop it (even in softer hardwood like hemlock). I can't imagine a full comp 32" would do much good, fully buried in oak. Now, if you're out west and all you cut is fresh pine, you may be able to get away with it.

Mike
 
If I was going to put a 32" bar on one, it would have to be a skip or semi-skip. Leaning much on my 570 (with 155psi of compression, stock) on a buried 24" bar with a brand new Stihl RS chain will stop it (even in softer hardwood like hemlock). I can't imagine a full comp 32" would do much good, fully buried in oak. Now, if you're out west and all you cut is fresh pine, you may be able to get away with it.

Mike
i can stop any saw if i "lean on" it too hard. a 570 would perform fine if used with skill rather than brute force. if the job was a 36" diameter oak, i'd grab the 394. it's situational.
 
i can stop any saw if i "lean on" it too hard. a 570 would perform fine if used with skill rather than brute force. if the job was a 36" diameter oak, i'd grab the 394. it's situational.

Well, yeah... I'm not talking about "too hard," I'm talking about "much at all." If everything's perfect, the chain is perfectly sharp, the rakers are the right depth, and there is not much pressure on it, it'll run a 24" bar just fine. If you've got 1-2 more cuts, but you get into the ground or into something stuck in the tree bark (dirt from skidding) that takes the perfect chisel points off, you might as well stop and switch chains. I imagine you could probably run a 32" bar with one, as long as the rakers are a bit high, or you were running a normal skip chain, and running both with extreme care; and if somebody had a job to do that required a 32" bar, I wouldn't tell them to buy a new saw if they had a 570. However, a 570 for $350, there are better saws for the job if he wants to run that length of bar with any regularity or speed.

Mike
 
Well, yeah... I'm not talking about "too hard," I'm talking about "much at all." If everything's perfect, the chain is perfectly sharp, the rakers are the right depth, and there is not much pressure on it, it'll run a 24" bar just fine. If you've got 1-2 more cuts, but you get into the ground or into something stuck in the tree bark (dirt from skidding) that takes the perfect chisel points off, you might as well stop and switch chains. I imagine you could probably run a 32" bar with one, as long as the rakers are a bit high, or you were running a normal skip chain, and running both with extreme care; and if somebody had a job to do that required a 32" bar, I wouldn't tell them to buy a new saw if they had a 570. However, a 570 for $350, there are better saws for the job if he wants to run that length of bar with any regularity or speed.

Mike
can't really disagree with you. the good thing about the 570/575's is that they hold their power at lower rpms, a good thing when you're in big wood. i'd have to know what sort of work the original poster does that requires a 32 inch bar. these days i seldom need anything longer that a 20" bar. a couple of times a year, i'll get a big cottonwood or siberian elm.

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this one was a pain in the ass. the tree, a 100' cottonwood that was maybe 300 years old, was growing in sand by the rio grande. the wood was full of silicates and the chain had to be sharpened after almost every cut. used a 272 with a 20" bar and a 385 with a 24" bar. we took off the wood over the structures and dropped the rest in one piece. the first five feet of the stem was filled with old hand-forged iron nails from when it had been the corner of a corral a very long time ago. climbing was a challenge since the bark was sloughing off the stem and like almost all cottonwoods there was no good tie-in.
 
You can find decent 385's and 288's for around 400 if you look around.
i have both a 385 and a 572 and in truth the 385 doesn't have a lot more frijoles than the 575. the 575 will probably cut twice as long on a tank of fuel too. as far as the 570 vs 575 goes, i think most hombres would have difficulty telling them apart without stickers. i don't really know why husky makes both of them. one costs a lot more but there probably isn't 50 cents difference in production costs.
 
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