Husqvarna idle screw issue?

[jefferis]

Full disclosure is always a good thing.

Getting hot you say? Pop the muffler off and show us the front face of the piston via the exhaust port.
435 coping with downed trees is not really a good idea unless the down trees are saplings- couple in a dirty powerhead and dull chain- heat cooked.

Honestly, take it to a shop. No offence, but you sound a little out of your depth.

NO offense taken. I took it to the shop. Will let you know.

 

[Pioneer]

Pioneer, did you read the part where he said it takes a special tool to adjust the jet screws?

Yes, it has nothing to do with my response. The procedure is the same regardless of the tool you would need to remove the idle mixture screw.

More than likely the carb needs to come off and be thoroughly cleaned.

For saws that are infrequently used canned fuel is the way to go. A friend has been using it in his saws for the last 5 years with zero issues even when the saws sit for 6 months or more with no use.
Even just using it for the last run before storage would probably save a lot of grief.

 

[Bob_w]

Okay, 1 more try. I thank for your help and being patient with me. We recently had an ice storm in texas and I lost over 10 trees and 75 have significant damage and downed limbs, large and small. Hadn't used my chainsaw in a year and was working fine (did not keep fuel in the saw). Anyway, I made a mistake on the racing issue. What happened was I had not released the throttle from the choke set manually. So what happens and what started this whole ordeal is that whenever I take it off throttle, it immediately dies. If I keep it running on high speed it stays on, but chokes out when I release the handle. Adjusting L and throttle screw don't seem to make a difference. I've tried 1, 1.5. 2 turns on the L and no difference. This all started about 1 hour after most recent use a few days ago. It cut quite a few, got hot I guess and started stalling out when I released the throttle. Thought it would just be an adjustment, but maybe something more.

Just saying, if you back out the low speed screw enough, it will fall out. If that happens, open the case over a clean bench, and carefully drop the screw and spring out on the bench. put the screw and spring back in lightly, then back out the suggested amount.

 

[sean donato]

Yes, it has nothing to do with my response. The procedure is the same regardless of the tool you would need to remove the idle mixture screw.

More than likely the carb needs to come off and be thoroughly cleaned.

For saws that are infrequently used canned fuel is the way to go. A friend has been using it in his saws for the last 5 years with zero issues even when the saws sit for 6 months or more with no use.
Even just using it for the last run before storage would probably save a lot of grief.

Thats what I reccomend people to do if they know something will be sitting a while. Save a lot of people calling in spring with issues.

 

[jefferis]

So I took the unit in. Apparently there is something mechanically wrong with the idler screw. Even at max it won't hold an idle. Time for some serious repairs. Disappointed with my luck with chainsaws. This one has less than 25 hours on it.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

So I took the unit in. Apparently there is something mechanically wrong with the idler screw. Even at max it won't hold an idle. Time for some serious repairs. Disappointed with my luck with chainsaws. This one has less than 25 hours on it.

Did they explain what is mechanically wrong with it? In my way of thinking- there is not a whole lot that can go wrong unless the threads are stripped?

 

[jefferis]

No, this was a part timer who did not charge me, but said no matter where he set the idle screw, it did not work and he had adjusted L & H so it would run... I 'm taking it in to the pro shop. Just he saw the same thing I did with the idle screw.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

No, this was a part timer who did not charge me, but said no matter where he set the idle screw, it did not work and he had adjusted L & H so it would run... I 'm taking it in to the pro shop. Just he saw the same thing I did with the idle screw.

At a guess Id say your part timer was a cashier at best- needs someone that knows a thing or three about saws to have a look at it and confirm or deny a loose floor pan to the engine and sucking air there.

 

[jefferis]

So Folks the final update: Took it to the pros, and they found they could not repair it. Bent Piston. :-( Now they said this may happen running too lean a fuel or no oil. However, I have only used the chainsaw 50-1 in the premixed fuel cans and have always had it oiled. Only about 30 hours on this saw over 4 years. Very disappointed.
Guess Husqvarna aren't as good as I'd hoped.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

So Folks the final update: Took it to the pros, and they found they could not repair it. Bent Piston. :-( Now they said this may happen running too lean a fuel or no oil. However, I have only used the chainsaw 50-1 in the premixed fuel cans and have always had it oiled. Only about 30 hours on this saw over 4 years. Very disappointed.
Guess Husqvarna aren't as good as I'd hoped.

Can you show us a photo of the "bent piston"?

Even with premix it is entirely possible to tune or otherwise cause lean running conditions and fry up top ends. They need to explain to you exactly what happened and why it happened- or you are just being told what they need you to hear.
Generally Husqvarna are as good as you hoped- but consumer grade saws in general are more of a use till something gives up and then toss them in the trash- regardless of origin maker or brand.

 

[jefferis]

The guys at the https://powerhausequipment.com/ have a really good reputation around here as fair, honest and reliable. They looked and did some of the things like carberator intake, etc but no charge for that. I don't have a picture but they will email me the complete steps they took. They don't know why the piston got bent. They just suggested possible causes.

 

[Silent Matt]

Either something was lost in translation, or they’re trying to pull a fast one on you… Never heard of a bent piston before.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Either something was lost in translation, or they’re trying to pull a fast one on you… Never heard of a bent piston before.

Makes me wonder if it was a telephone diagnosis report and Burnt was misheard as Bent.

 

[sean donato]

With all the air leak issues I had with the 435 I had, it doesn't matter what fuel was in it, lean is lean. Recognizing the symptoms before damage is done would have lead to a different outcome.

 

[Captain Bruce]

Can you show us a photo of the "bent piston"?

Even with premix it is entirely possible to tune or otherwise cause lean running conditions and fry up top ends. They need to explain to you exactly what happened and why it happened- or you are just being told what they need you to hear.
Generally Husqvarna are as good as you hoped- but consumer grade saws in general are more of a use till something gives up and then toss them in the trash- regardless of origin maker or brand.

Pre-mixed fuel is ultra-lean as per the epa; its fine for a disposal string trimmer, but its lack of octane is the bane of any engine running at 10 - 13K rpms.

 

[jefferis]

From the pro:
CHECKED ENGINE COMPRESSION - LOW AT 110 PSI . CHECKED MUFFLER - SCREEN IS OK.

EXHAUST PORT IS CLEAR. PISTON IS DEEPLY SCORED AND RING. THIS CONDITION IS REDUCE

MACHINE PERFORMANCE THE WARMER THE ENGINE BECOMES. THIS IS NOT A COST

EFFECTIVE REPAIR.

 

[jefferis]

Pre-mixed fuel is ultra-lean as per the epa; its fine for a disposal string trimmer, but its lack of octane is the bane of any engine running at 10 - 13K rpms.

The cans say it is for Chainsaws, what would you use?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

From the pro:
CHECKED ENGINE COMPRESSION - LOW AT 110 PSI . CHECKED MUFFLER - SCREEN IS OK.

EXHAUST PORT IS CLEAR. PISTON IS DEEPLY SCORED AND RING. THIS CONDITION IS REDUCE

MACHINE PERFORMANCE THE WARMER THE ENGINE BECOMES. THIS IS NOT A COST

EFFECTIVE REPAIR.

Yep, scored- not bent. As we had pretty much decided from the get go of this thread.
Probably nothing to do with the fuel you chose to run- or the ratio of it, but more likely from a loose engine pan and major air leak causing a lean condition- clamshell homeowner grade saws are well known for doing so- does not matter by whom it was made.

 

[sean donato]

Pre-mixed fuel is ultra-lean as per the epa; its fine for a disposal string trimmer, but its lack of octane is the bane of any engine running at 10 - 13K rpms.

What are you talking about? Premix canned fuel is typically higher octane, and can be bought in different oil ratios. It's also typically an Alkylate fuel which is better for the engine in the first place.