Strange question. My 350 has a different crank shaft end on it so I can't put a 3/8 clutch and wormdrive on it. It is different from my 346xp OE which has a 3/8 clutch and wormdrive. I was hoping to make the 350 into a 3/8 since it is a nice little screamer and I have all 3/8 bars on everything I own. The crankshaft end just will not accept the plastic wormdrive. Any help would be appreciated.
Husqy 350 crank and clutch
- Thread starter lobsterlogger
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The 350 has a step in the crank the 359/357 and 346 do not- so as such, there is not a worm drive to suit the sprocket drive system like those other saws.
However, I have read elsewhere of others using the small spline sprocket drive drum on the saws with the original spur drive worm gear and it worked- I never tried it when I looked into this with my own 350 and stuck with spur drive original .325 equipment.
However, I have read elsewhere of others using the small spline sprocket drive drum on the saws with the original spur drive worm gear and it worked- I never tried it when I looked into this with my own 350 and stuck with spur drive original .325 equipment.
I can't speak to how good the quality may be but...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2552477799...plQVLRR|tkp:Bk9SR7Lt2LGJYQ&LH_ItemCondition=3
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2552477799...plQVLRR|tkp:Bk9SR7Lt2LGJYQ&LH_ItemCondition=3
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One route I did consider- but never got around to trying......
Was to heat the drive stubs on a small spline sprocket drive clutch drum, with a small propane torch and press the heated drive section into the spur driven oiler worm gear while it was mounted on the saw- thus melt casting the female sockets into the plastic worm gear and giving a more reliable drive.
Might work- might not- might cost you a new worm drive after the experiment- nothing ventured, nothing gained!
Was to heat the drive stubs on a small spline sprocket drive clutch drum, with a small propane torch and press the heated drive section into the spur driven oiler worm gear while it was mounted on the saw- thus melt casting the female sockets into the plastic worm gear and giving a more reliable drive.
Might work- might not- might cost you a new worm drive after the experiment- nothing ventured, nothing gained!
Daaaang Bob..... I kinda like/may try that idea. As I have a few 350s I just rebuilt this summer, might be a neat conversion!
There are 3/8" spur drums out there, that drop into the OEM oil pinion pocket. Just not that common. The IPL is very clear.
I stopped looking everytime I needed one, and simply went to a rim drive drum. Customer units. Those saws can switch between 3/8", and .325.
I stopped looking everytime I needed one, and simply went to a rim drive drum. Customer units. Those saws can switch between 3/8", and .325.
The 346 rim/drum combo works. Swap the rim to run whatever pitch you want. If your worm gear has any wear on the drum side, I’d replace it also
One route I did consider- but never got around to trying......
Was to heat the drive stubs on a small spline sprocket drive clutch drum, with a small propane torch and press the heated drive section into the spur driven oiler worm gear while it was mounted on the saw- thus melt casting the female sockets into the plastic worm gear and giving a more reliable drive.
Might work- might not- might cost you a new worm drive after the experiment- nothing ventured, nothing gained!
Wouldn't you then have to replace the worm every time you needed to take the clutch off??
Thanks for the info and ideas fellas. Just ordered a .325 chain. This 100 dollar saw has been great since I put a new carb on it. Gonna just leave it alone and add it to the stable. I think it revs as fast as my 346 OE or the 346 NE. Power not quite of the NE but close. Take it easy and thanks again
