Huztle MS361

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I did put the cap/handle back on a gave it a squeeze with my bench vise. Now I can't pull it off to save my life.

But, not going to use it. Bleed holes are monstrous too big anyway.

Did it start with that Texas Button? Yes? Then it's not too big, it works.
 
They are huge, not gonna argue that...fortunately I don't really use the decomp.
 
Weighed all the offerings on the Farmertec site and ordered another 361.

Most bang for us cheap fellows.

Besides, I've another 3/8" x 20" bar/chain hanging on the peg board for it.[emoji108]
I've been think about a ms360 or ms361 kit. I am concerned about the broken cranks. Plus I might wait to see if they put out a MS380/381 kit soon.
 
Well I just got my 361 finished yesterday. Fired up fine today but bogs down and dies when I pull the trigger. Came back this afternoon and now it won't start. How many turns out on the carb have you guys done to start with?
 
I went 1.5 but barely started dropped it to below 1 after tuning. I haven't tried starting it again yet. I'm testing its cold starting abilities now.

New it started at 1 turn out no problem. Then I modded the muffler and tuned it quick, well I didn't do it right. At 1.25 turns out I couldn't get it going. Then I figured it wasn't rich enough so I went to 1.5. Took 50 pulls to get it to go...the first 10 seconds of half throttle filled my garage with blue smoke. Turned it down quite a lot after that. I'm really surprised it fired in that condition.


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Have you checked the carb metering lever spring.
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If it has the long one find a short one and try that.
 
Well, I got it to run tonight. :D It was pretty finicky (took me 3 different sessions today) to get running. I have no idea how far out the needles are, and don't really care either because it runs, for now. Will see when I start it up next time to see if it held a tune or not. Next step is to put the bar on it and try it in some wood.
 
Well, I got it to run tonight. :D It was pretty finicky (took me 3 different sessions today) to get running. I have no idea how far out the needles are, and don't really care either because it runs, for now. Will see when I start it up next time to see if it held a tune or not. Next step is to put the bar on it and try it in some wood.

a couple of us noticed and in the spirit of helping thy neighbor do you own and use a pressure/vac tester on that beast? i was just whining in the neighboring thread about increased air leaks showing up in the kits, in general. besides it sucking air and ruining the jug/piston while you are cutting that wood tomorrow if you got a weak or missing pulse the carb will not be pumping fuel right. you probably got that covered already.

if you dont know, i am not sure what to tell you. it would seem like that if you got the washers on the carb correctly and the manifold is tight on the jug that you might take some carb cleaner and spray the base of the jug and if you hear an increase in rpms for a brief moment its likely leaking at the base. i have never done that, it never occurred to me in the heat of battle. i was just thinking about what i might offer up to help you. for some reason a lot of folks are reluctant to make that purchase. the ones i have noticed leak seem to occur on the clutch side. good luck with it. wood chips are good.
 
A few things to look out for when you start using and cutting some wood. The tune is important. It should have a smooth crisp throttle off idle. If it Boggs off idle check you low setting. You can use the lean drop off method to get it close. Then go to high setting it should four stroke out of the cut and clean up in the cut. Spec is 2800 idle and 14000 wot use that to get you close.
If you have a tune that won't hold or it keeps bogging at idle or even a idle that can't be brought down with adjustment I would do a pressure/vacc test to rule out a air leak. I hate for you to have more problems or hunt for it. After you work the kinks out you'll have a nice mid size saw. I like the 360 and 038 series.
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Thank's for the advice guys. I do not own a pressure/vac kit yet. That is something I have wanted to get, but I opted for some other tools first. I'm pretty sure there are no air leaks (I think) as I tipped the saw every which way when it was running and the rpm never changed. When I was trying to get it started I was using some pretty old 40:1 fuel mix (my fault) so that didn't help getting it to start either. So far the tune seems to be very good off of idle. Never revved it up fully because chain wasn't installed yesterday. I will attempt to start again later today and see if everything is working correctly.
 
Ok, i'm ashamed of this:oops:, but that fuel is probably at least over a year old. I know, I know, it did have stabilizer in it but still... I will drain the stuff out and put in some fresher 50:1 when I use it later.
 
Doink! Put in new 50:1 fuel and I started it up a little while ago, ran fine, life is good. Then I put the bar and chain, started, ran for a couple of seconds, and was unable to get it to run after that. I turned in the jet screws, and they were both at least 4-5 if not more turns out:eek:. I have no idea how in the world I got it to run. After I flooded it nice and good I took the carb apart and found out that it had the long spring inside. I stole the spring out of a 017 carb and put that in. I couldn't get it to run when I put it back together, but I think that was because I had flooded it so well before. Hopefully the different spring gets it to run for me later.
 

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