Sat on the shelf all summer, full of Red Armor and good bar oil and I used it yesterday to take 14" of height butt off a maple stump I'm going to grind. Started in 2 pulls and purrs like the 45 year old kitten it is Keep thinking it will need new crank seals after 45 years but I guess not and still has very good compression and pulls the 20" full tooth chain, no issue. Last time I had the muffler off, took a good look at the piston and cylinder and no scoring and little to no carbon buildup either. I'm sold on canned fuel 100% It has many hours on it as well. Hope my new Echo's last as long as the 028 has.
My 028 has sat all summer unused and I fired it up yesterday
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I probably should have stated.., popped on the second pull and fired on the third and like my other saws that I use, I let it idle for a minute or 2 before throttling it up and put it 'to the wood' before opening it up all the way...
One thing I do find interesting and that is, it exhibits very little exhaust smoke and the exhaust does have an interesting odor, quite unlike normal mix. I ran the saw for years on regular gas (pre ethanol) and regular Stihl pre mix oil in bottles and when I pulled the muffler last time, years ago, there was little to no carbon buildup in the exhaust port then and the USDA spark arrestor screen (which I always retain on all my saws) was pretty clean as well, but this saw spent it's 'professional' life running balls to the wall anyway.
I'm sold on Echo Red Armor 50-1. It might be expensive but the saw not only runs excellent on it, but it idles perfect. It didn't idle on weasel pee gas at all and Red Armor bottled oil.
Guess I don't have to tear it apart and replace the crank seals for a while even though I assumed that after 40+ years of existence I would. An antique that runs like a raped ape. I do have to get a new chain drive sprocket however, the original one is about shot.
One thing I do find interesting and that is, it exhibits very little exhaust smoke and the exhaust does have an interesting odor, quite unlike normal mix. I ran the saw for years on regular gas (pre ethanol) and regular Stihl pre mix oil in bottles and when I pulled the muffler last time, years ago, there was little to no carbon buildup in the exhaust port then and the USDA spark arrestor screen (which I always retain on all my saws) was pretty clean as well, but this saw spent it's 'professional' life running balls to the wall anyway.
I'm sold on Echo Red Armor 50-1. It might be expensive but the saw not only runs excellent on it, but it idles perfect. It didn't idle on weasel pee gas at all and Red Armor bottled oil.
Guess I don't have to tear it apart and replace the crank seals for a while even though I assumed that after 40+ years of existence I would. An antique that runs like a raped ape. I do have to get a new chain drive sprocket however, the original one is about shot.
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Not at all. Just posting my experience and has no bearing on oil with me at all. I try to abstain from any and all oil threads. I use what I use in my farm tractors as well as my saws that work for me and the Echo Red Armor 50-1 works just fine. I read about the Tru-Fuel issue and I never experience it's issues. In fact I start out my new Echo's on Tru-Fuel 40-1. for the first couple tanks and then go to the Red Armor 50-1. Big Rotella T6 user 5-40. I buy it in 55 gallon delivered by my jobber drums. Cheaper that way and the empty drums get the drain oil which they take back and what they do with it, I have no idea. All I know is they only want oil not mixed with brake fluid or antifreeze and there is no charge to me at all. I run extended life AF in the tractors and vehicles and the brake fluid which I suck out and change every 2 years because brake fluid is hydroscopic and attracts water which lowers it boiling point and can corrode master cylinder pistons as well as wheel pistons, gets dumped on the burn pile for accelerant. I always suck it out from the farthest cylinder away from the master cylinder with a Mighty-Vac.
What I do and what I use, works for me and I always do a spectro analysis on my drain oil. Blackstone labs is my go to analyzer.
What I do and what I use, works for me and I always do a spectro analysis on my drain oil. Blackstone labs is my go to analyzer.
Abstinence is denial
In my case, abstinence is lack of bull shitte. I see we have a new pop up ad. That will now limit my participation on this site. I don't like pop up ads that have no bearing on what I purchase what so ever.
Additionally, now that I know who owns this .com website I will never become a dues paying member. I have less that stellar dealing with them in the past.
Got no idea what your talking about.
I didn't think you would actually. Suffice to say I own a (or should I say long term lease a .com website as in reality no one owns them) with a forum attached to it (not chainsaw related at all) so I've had dealings with this website owner in the past when they wanted to buy it and make it their own and I passed and as a rule I don't ascribe to any of their owned websites except this one and one firearm related forum I've been on for years and like this one, I don't pay any dues either. I might not get full 'access' on that one but I do get to be apprised of all the non viewable content as I personally know all the moderators.
I'll leave it at that. have a blessed day...
I've had the same good experience with Trufuel. Saw sitting for 8 months, still starts the same as if I put it on the shelf the day before. Start from cold, choke on, six pulls until it pops, turn off choke, next pull it fires and idles smoothly, like clockwork. Rest of the starts for the day will be one pull.
Note, none of these canned wonder fuels store forever. Just rotated out my stock of Trufuel after a couple years - there's a date code printed on the top of the can. Hadn't had any issues, but if you wait till you have issues with your fuel to rotate it out, you're waiting too long. The big block Chevy ate it just fine.
Note, none of these canned wonder fuels store forever. Just rotated out my stock of Trufuel after a couple years - there's a date code printed on the top of the can. Hadn't had any issues, but if you wait till you have issues with your fuel to rotate it out, you're waiting too long. The big block Chevy ate it just fine.
I do as you do as well. Don't try it in your lawnmower or pressure washer engine as they don't like it but the cars and my wife's Burb, no issue. I believe it has to do with the multi cylinders and both are flex fuel engines, whatever that means as I've never put in e85 and don't plan to either. I Have one sealed metal can of Tru-Fuel left as well as a half quart metal can of Tru-Fuel 50-1 and then I'll be 100% on Red Armor 50-1 unless I buy another new saw which is very highly unlikely and then I will run a couple tanks of 40-1 in Red Armor or Tru-Fuel, which ever is available.
I ran a half pint of 30 weight Quaker State to the gallon and burnt motor oil for bar oil for years.
Made a lot of money.
Made a lot of money.
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Sure smells like an oil thread!!
Smells like victory!!
An old big block will likely run on lamp oil if you get them lit. The 427 had decent compression in any form.
The best threads are informative, brief, enjoyable, and need no promotion.....
Boys, the loudest man in the room is not the most dangerous one, it's always the quitest. Now let that sink in.........
I use Sta-Bil and Amsoil oil, and I am usually forced to use e-10 FUEL. bUT MY SAW ALSO SITS ALL SUMMER. nEVER HAD A PROBLEM WITH IT. ms500I. Sorry about hitting the caplock key!
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Slick 50 man myself....
