I didn't see a 'stickie' so here are some Questions.

[Wargoat]

First things first, is this a young man's game? I intend to try this on a recreational basis and if I like it, get after it for the next six years till I retire from the Army. If it's going to put me in a chair, I'd like to know ahead of time. I'm 31 if that provides a frame of reference.

Other questions:

How did you get started?

Harness or saddle? Are they the same thing, or a zebra with some different stripes?

A trained eye can identify a bad limb. An amateur may not. If I were to put my line over a bad limb, what should I do if it breaks?

Is it a bad idea to use a Swedish seat until I can cough up for a harness/saddle? I don't have any tree in the area taller than 50-75'.

I can do a prussik or a blakes hitch no problem. Using DdRT, is there anything else I need to worry about on a short ascent (>20')?

My primary problem is that although I would like formal instruction, I'm in Kansas where the wind doesn't allow tall trees to live. I intend to retire from the service in the 828 area of NC, where trees probably outnumber grass.

If you are reading this, and you are an arborist near Abilene KS, I'll take you out for a hell of a dinner if you bring your kit by and show me the ropes. And probably fork up some cash besides.

Thanks for your time and consideration, I hope this didn't waste anyone's time.

 

[ropensaddle]

First things first, is this a young man's game? I intend to try this on a recreational basis and if I like it, get after it for the next six years till I retire from the Army. If it's going to put me in a chair, I'd like to know ahead of time. I'm 31 if that provides a frame of reference.

Other questions:

How did you get started?

Harness or saddle? Are they the same thing, or a zebra with some different stripes?

A trained eye can identify a bad limb. An amateur may not. If I were to put my line over a bad limb, what should I do if it breaks?

Is it a bad idea to use a Swedish seat until I can cough up for a harness/saddle? I don't have any tree in the area taller than 50-75'.

I can do a prussik or a blakes hitch no problem. Using DdRT, is there anything else I need to worry about on a short ascent (>20')?

My primary problem is that although I would like formal instruction, I'm in Kansas where the wind doesn't allow tall trees to live. I intend to retire from the service in the 828 area of NC, where trees probably outnumber grass.

If you are reading this, and you are an arborist near Abilene KS, I'll take you out for a hell of a dinner if you bring your kit by and show me the ropes. And probably fork up some cash besides.

Thanks for your time and consideration, I hope this didn't waste anyone's time.

Get a job with an established company is my advice

 

[Wayne Wilkinson]

Wargoat, NO it is not a young mans game! There have been many advances in this field to allow all ages and sizes to be able to climb comfortably. Im not sure about the harness and saddle thing i use a new tribe saddle i got from tree stuff and i love it! If you arnt looking to spend much to get into one they have some >$200 saddles that will get you started and be comfortable in the tree. Do not throw you climb line around a dead limb! lol if there are no leaves and bark is slipping or missing in spots throw it around a different limb. 50'-75' trees are perfect to learn in IMO. Also get a flipline/buckstrap or if your slick you can use the tail end of your climb line some biners and alpine butterflies. If your gonna use a saw in the tree get a wire cored flipline. Before i had a seasoned climber show me the ropes i watched a lot youtube vids and read a lot. while there is no replacement for a good teacher, reading and watching will give you a better idea then you may have now. I knew next to nothing the tail end of last year and have picked up a lot since, but have pretty much devoted my life to tree work. Im 29 btw and i dont think im too old for this.

 

[ropensaddle]

Wargoat, NO it is not a young mans game! There have been many advances in this field to allow all ages and sizes to be able to climb comfortably. Im not sure about the harness and saddle thing i use a new tribe saddle i got from tree stuff and i love it! If you arnt looking to spend much to get into one they have some >$200 saddles that will get you started and be comfortable in the tree. Do not throw you climb line around a dead limb! lol if there are no leaves and bark is slipping or missing in spots throw it around a different limb. 50'-75' trees are perfect to learn in IMO. Also get a flipline/buckstrap or if your slick you can use the tail end of your climb line some biners and alpine butterflies. If your gonna use a saw in the tree get a wire cored flipline. Before i had a seasoned climber show me the ropes i watched a lot youtube vids and read a lot. while there is no replacement for a good teacher, reading and watching will give you a better idea then you may have now. I knew next to nothing the tail end of last year and have picked up a lot since, but have pretty much devoted my life to tree work. Im 29 btw and i dont think im too old for this.

But first get



Arboriculture Integrated Management of Landscape Trees, Shrubs, and Vines

 

[Wayne Wilkinson]

He didnt say he was going to start a tree company he said he wanted to climb on a REC basis.

 

[treebilly]

I'm 36 so I can't tell you if it's only a young mans game. I work with a climber who's pushing 60 though. He has days where he aches a bit. He's one tough bastard though. He still climbs Ddrt on a taught line in the most basic weaver 4-D saddle there is. These newer saddles seem to focus on comfort a lot.
I think 31 is a god age to start. Old enough to pay attention and learn. Good luck with it.

 

[Wargoat]

Thanks for all of your advice, guys. I'll definitely pick up a copy of AIMLTSV to study long term. A video I saw recently recommended a book by Jeff Jepson, so I'll focus on that in the short term for practical application.

The reaction my wife may have to me spending ~$150+ on rope may be worth a post of it's own.

BTW, I see a lot of similarities between the boatswains trade and the arborist. Lots of splicing, cleats, and what we'd have called when I was in the Navy 'marlinspike' seamanship. Why do squids say line and not rope, and vice versa? I get it if no one really knows or cares, just curious.

 

[ropensaddle]

He didnt say he was going to start a tree company he said he wanted to climb on a REC basis.[/QUOT

He didnt say he was going to start a tree company he said he wanted to climb on a REC basis.

Never hurts to know the beast your riding be it bulls or trees!

 

[TheJollyLogger]

It's so a squid can spot a poser, just like a tree man will never buy a guy a beer that just spent all day 200' foot up in an oak in his "harness".

 

[Wargoat]

It's so a squid can spot a poser, just like a tree man will never buy a guy a beer that just spent all day 200' foot up in an oak in his "harness".

Ahah. Lights are on now.

 

[BC WetCoast]

Wargoat, NO it is not a young mans game! . If your gonna use a saw in the tree get a wire cored flipline. .

I didn't start climbing until I was over 50, so the OP be fine.

Wayne, you reply indicates that you believe a wire core flipline will prevent it being cut by a saw. Do not become complacent!! A wire core lanyard will slow a running chainsaw by micro seconds. Wire core lanyards were originally used when the high riggers were topping and rigging large conifers for logging spars. The wire core would allow them to flip the lanyard when they were climbing 6-7' diameter trees. They also provided protection when the high riggers were chopping out their notches at 120'.

 

[BC WetCoast]

First things first, is this a young man's game? I intend to try this on a recreational basis and if I like it, get after it for the next six years till I retire from the Army. If it's going to put me in a chair, I'd like to know ahead of time. I'm 31 if that provides a frame of reference.

Other questions:

How did you get started?

Harness or saddle? Are they the same thing, or a zebra with some different stripes?

A trained eye can identify a bad limb. An amateur may not. If I were to put my line over a bad limb, what should I do if it breaks?

Is it a bad idea to use a Swedish seat until I can cough up for a harness/saddle? I don't have any tree in the area taller than 50-75'.

I can do a prussik or a blakes hitch no problem. Using DdRT, is there anything else I need to worry about on a short ascent (>20')?

My primary problem is that although I would like formal instruction, I'm in Kansas where the wind doesn't allow tall trees to live. I intend to retire from the service in the 828 area of NC, where trees probably outnumber grass.

If you are reading this, and you are an arborist near Abilene KS, I'll take you out for a hell of a dinner if you bring your kit by and show me the ropes. And probably fork up some cash besides.

Thanks for your time and consideration, I hope this didn't waste anyone's time.

When you put your rope over a branch, make sure it also goes around the main stem. That way if the branch breaks (which is more unlikely because your rope will be near the stem where even dead branches have significant strength), your rope will slide down and get caught on the next branch.

 

[Fireaxman]

Young man's game? He'll no. 66, still climbing, still loving it. Even after quad bypass heart surgery at age 55. Identifying dead branches, however, is Very important even when you are Not using them for a tie in point. As you climb, you necessarily shake the tree. Shake a tree with sufficiently dead branches hard enough, and they begin to fall. If you are in the wrong place at the wrong time, well, perhaps you already understand the possible consequences. If there are questionable branches above my climbing path I will rope them with a throwline, take a re-direct around a neighboring tree to get me clear of danger, and give the branch a good strong pull to be sure it is solid enough not to be a threat while I am climbing. Woodpecker damage, fungus, loose bark, fractures, fissures, a scarcity of leaves or buds, and the "frass" of wood eating insects (excrement and wood dust) are all clues that a branch is dead. I sometimes use a pair of binoculars to identify and evaluate the risk.