I got quicker cycle time on my splitter

Shop deals on ebay
Rugged made
Advertise with us
Treestuff
Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
O

Ole Farmerbuck

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Jan 25, 2007
Messages
1,180
Reaction score
144
Location
western ks
Dont laugh at it,it works. I got tired of waiting on the cylinder so i spot welded a cylinder stop on the wedge. Cut my cycle time down to less than 9 seconds. Good for 18" logs or less.
splitterrefab.jpg
 
cyl stroke

Farmer, what is the stroke of that rig without the stop, My new splitter will have stroke controled with either a electric valve or a mechinical linkage tied to the ram, like a 3/8 rod with a sliding collor to set the stroke,It would bump the lever, But the auto cycle valve is pricey at the $250,00 mark, leaning twards the electric control , Besides all ready having them, two advantages of the electric control are auto cycle function is easy to set up and , safty switches can be mounted in several locations for instant shut down, Ive got some of the big palm buttons ,osha type, a little tap is all they need, to kill everything and auto cycle is free for the wiring, what model splitter is that, Thanks E,J,
 
cabinman said:
Farmer, what is the stroke of that rig without the stop, My new splitter will have stroke controled with either a electric valve or a mechinical linkage tied to the ram, like a 3/8 rod with a sliding collor to set the stroke,It would bump the lever, But the auto cycle valve is pricey at the $250,00 mark, leaning twards the electric control , Besides all ready having them, two advantages of the electric control are auto cycle function is easy to set up and , safty switches can be mounted in several locations for instant shut down, Ive got some of the big palm buttons ,osha type, a little tap is all they need, to kill everything and auto cycle is free for the wiring, what model splitter is that, Thanks E,J,
Click to expand...
The splitter is Swisher brand,22ton. Will split 24 inch logs. I havent found anything so far that it wont split. Some crotches in the elms are tough though. I just sell face cords so its better for me to have it set like this for 16 inch logs. After this season i will fix it so the arms are bolted on to take off easier but for now its spot welded.
 
I have a friend that just used a depth stop set from the the local Farm and Home to do the same thing. They are the aluminum ones that slip over the rod and come in a set about a foot long with an assortment of sizes.
They ride on the rod next to the slide so there is no relative motion to speak of between the stops and the rod.

Don
 
SWI Don said:
I have a friend that just used a depth stop set from the the local Farm and Home to do the same thing. They are the aluminum ones that slip over the rod and come in a set about a foot long with an assortment of sizes.
They ride on the rod next to the slide so there is no relative motion to speak of between the stops and the rod.

Don
Click to expand...
This cylinder has to have the stops hitting on the outside of it or it would prob ruin the seal. I tried some off of our farm disc but decided better not run it.
 
Ole Farmerbuck said:
This cylinder has to have the stops hitting on the outside of it or it would prob ruin the seal. I tried some off of our farm disc but decided better not run it.
Click to expand...


A plate with a notch that would slip over the rod at the cylinder would take care of that then you wouldn't have a permanent stroke. Remove/add stops as needed.

Harry K
 
czar800 said:
My Question is what are you going to chop corn/hay with next year? lol!!

I cant tell you all the things I have used old knives for...
Click to expand...
You're close. lol.Those were the blower paddles off a John Deere cutter. Now my splitter just went up in value!
 
Here's how I do it...

Waiting for a 26" cylinder to rise after splitting seems like forever sometimes, whenever I split vertically. I've probably lost two or three hours splitting wood through the years by not doing something simple. So I got smart. I keep a couple of flat rounds, one 6" and the other 10" long, about 12" in diameter each--preferably maple, which is rather light and easy to throw around. I store them right on the trailer.

Then when I run across a collection of short billets, under 18", I slide one of the flat rounds on top of the big bottom plate. Then I split the shorter billets with them resting on top of the flat round. That way, the cylinder doesn't drop nearly as far and you can always let it rise clear to the top between splits. (Just don't split the flat round.)

Also, I try to sort the billets by length before I start to split them. I then split all the shorter ones first using the flat rounds as needed and then the longer ones last without the flat rounds.

A stitch in time saves 9.:cheers:
 
SWI Don said:
I have a friend that just used a depth stop set from the the local Farm and Home to do the same thing. They are the aluminum ones that slip over the rod and come in a set about a foot long with an assortment of sizes.
They ride on the rod next to the slide so there is no relative motion to speak of between the stops and the rod.

Don
Click to expand...

Thats what I use, So Far no problems.

attachment.php
 
SWI Don said:
I have a friend that just used a depth stop set from the the local Farm and Home to do the same thing. They are the aluminum ones that slip over the rod and come in a set about a foot long with an assortment of sizes.
They ride on the rod next to the slide so there is no relative motion to speak of between the stops and the rod.

Don
Click to expand...

Ole Farmerbuck said:
This cylinder has to have the stops hitting on the outside of it or it would prob ruin the seal. I tried some off of our farm disc but decided better not run it.
Click to expand...




OFB, I want to caution you about your stops.


I understand your concerns with theclamp on stops, but they are the way to go. Im using them on a similar cylinder and other than paint loss and having to trim them so they were not clipping the outside of the cylinder, they work fine.



Your setup may eventually mushroom the end of the cylinder and make it impossable to disassemble for repair.


Just my .02c





.
 
RaisedByWolves said:
OFB, I want to caution you about your stops.


I understand your concerns with theclamp on stops, but they are the way to go. Im using them on a similar cylinder and other than paint loss and having to trim them so they were not clipping the outside of the cylinder, they work fine.



Your setup may eventually mushroom the end of the cylinder and make it impossable to disassemble for repair.


Just my .02c





.
Click to expand...
Yea i know what you mean RBW and i thank you for your advice. I talked to the hydraulic shop about what i did and he said it will work just fine. And really,i prob dont let it go back to the stop but maybe 1 every 10 splits. I did have the aluminum stops on it for a few splits. Not sure what happened but they ended up getting crushed and bent. Detent may have stuck,not sure but it sure made a mess of the spring loaded stops. I know what ive done isnt the best way and i will fix it soon. Again,thanks for the reply.

Buck
 
With my homemade barebones splitter I just eyeball the length of what the round is and stop the cylinder accordingly.
 

Similar threads

D Chaplin
Limiting Cylinder Stroke on Log Splitter
Replies
17
Views
2K
Kevin in Ohio
Kevin in Ohio
memory
Countyline 30 ton splitter heat issues?
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
Brufab
Brufab
A
Log Splitter cylinder not moving - need advice
Replies
6
Views
2K
Yarz
Yarz
L
Log Splitter----ReDo
Replies
6
Views
476
VirginiaIron
VirginiaIron
SemperFiSawguy
Log splitter modifications/build.
Replies
6
Views
967
SemperFiSawguy
SemperFiSawguy

Latest posts

Back
Top