i have a bad idea

[371groundie]

or mabey a good one.

my old man has a 2156 that is cold blooded as an eskimo prostitute. his shoulder has been hurting him of late, possibly from yankin on that saw. so ive been thinking about how to make an electric start for the saw.

my first thought was to just put a hole through the recoil cover so i could use an 18v drill with a nut driver to turn the crank shaft. will that work? wouldnt that screw up the recoil mechanism?

so if that doesnt work what about going in through the other side. make a hole in the clutch cover, and use a clutch removal tool attached to a nut driver on the cordless drill.

any thoughts? any one done it?(wouldnt put it past any of you) would the 18v drill turn fast enough? would it have enough tourqe? any other ideas about an electric start saw?

 

[PB]

You're right that is a bad idea.

 

[timberwolf]

Why not just fix the saw?:bang:

 

[edisto]

The problem is not getting the drill to turn fast enough...it is stopping the drill if the engine catches!

Even if you set up a system where socket would freewheel when the engine fired, you'd need a way to disengage the socket parallel to the crankshaft so it wouldn't bind.

Now...you could machine a recess into the flywheel, and slip a ring-gear into it, and mount a matching gear on a hopped-up industrial drill (do you have an air compressor?)

 

[sawinredneck]

Adjust the carb?

 

[KD57]

Why not just fix the saw?:bang:

:agree2: I remember back when Craftsman ?? made an electric start saw, what a POS. A friend had one, and I don't think it ever worked right.

 

[alpinecrick]

Buy an electric start 10-10.......

Of course, finding a working battery for a 35-40 year old saw may present a challenge..........

Didn't Mac also make an electric start 6-10?


Casey

 

[timberwolf]

ALso I take the flywheel nuts and clutch off using a cordless drill/impact, no need for a piston stop so likely would undo the clutch on clutch side and over tighten the flywheel before it would give enough torque to turn the motor over.

Seriously, if a saw is in good tune and repair it just takes a couple pulls.

 

[excess650]

Does the 2156 have a decomp, and does he use it?

I ask because I've found some of my saws start more easily without the decomp than with, and this includes my recently rebuilt, high comp 660.

Try a fresh plug and make sure the carb is tuned correctly, and airfilter clean.

 

[371groundie]

i need to buy a tach, but the dealer could set that thing every day and it still woulnt go right. new plug has had little effect. air filter maintenance its top priorty. i dont know what else to do. at this point its more of a 'that would be funny' than a 'clear the work bench!' project.

i still think it would be fun. i specifically want to keep the recoil present and functional incase the battery runs dead. i had no idea electric start saws had been produced! the closest i ever saw was one that you pulled the cord all the way out winding up a spring, then when you got the the end of the rope somthing would release the spring and that would turn the saw over. i forget what brand it was.

my though about removing the drill when the saw fired was to taper one side of the clutch wrench so when the clutch spun faster than the drill it would push the drill out.

you can blame this idea on me being outa work. i have way too much time to spend thinking of bad ideas. it doesnt help that i have to hide in the workshop so wifey doesnt chew me out all day long. all those tools calling my name.........

 

[Brian S]

Well, I agree with the posters who have already wisely reccomeded just tuning it properly.

But if you insist on building a saw with electric start then please ship me that 2156. I will gladly ship you a NIB Poulan Wild Thing to tinker with!

Really though, if you have to do this I would think your best bet would be to gut the recoil spring, slot the recoil cover for clearance where needed, install a thick o ring into the rope groove, then use a handheld electric motor turning a grooved drum or wheel to make contact with the rubber o-ring on the starter drum. Obviously there would have to be a hole in the recoil cover to allow the electric motor spindle or drum to reach in and spin the recoil pully, but this would be the best method since you would need the motor drive to disengage after the engine starts which it would since you are using the oem starter drum w/o a rope.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

I was in a auto bone yard the other day...

I was in a auto bone yard the other day and saw a starter motor that "might" just be small enough to go on a chain saw. That would be if you could rig up a bracket for it to mount to and then a gear on the flywheel......I could see it happening.


I suppose if you really wanted to get creative, one could cut the gear right into the flywheel........one would really have to look that one over carefully!


I know some of the little RC gas cars/trucks have an on board starter that you connect a battery to and then hit the start button. The battery is removed once the engine is started.

Thoughts to ponder.

 

[aktaylors]

MY thought is with the rc plane starter. As a kid my friend flew them. He had a handheld starter motor that had a rubber tip that fit over a rubber cone on the planes motor. JUst place the cone and tip togther and hit the starter. It was friction fit so you didn't have to worry about getting it off straight.
Just my 2 cents

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

MY thought is with the rc plane starter. As a kid my friend flew them. He had a handheld starter motor that had a rubber tip that fit over a rubber cone on the planes motor. JUst place the cone and tip togther and hit the starter. It was friction fit so you didn't have to worry about getting it off straight.
Just my 2 cents

I thought about that and dismissed it. I don't thing an RC starter would have enough torque to start a chainsaw....especially one of this size. Also the friction connection wouldn't be strong enough.

 

[edisto]

I was in a auto bone yard the other day and saw a starter motor that "might" just be small enough to go on a chain saw. That would be if you could rig up a bracket for it to mount to and then a gear on the flywheel......I could see it happening.

It is possible, but the problem was the guys shoulder...making the saw heavier might not help all that much.

I suppose if you really wanted to get creative, one could cut the gear right into the flywheel........one would really have to look that one over carefully!

Cutting teeth into the flywheel wouldn't last for long, but cutting the flywheel to insert a ring gear would.