Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
That would do it.
Heck I just figured it had something to do with me telling Copsey to pound sand in his ass. Happened about the same time.
I need a milling machine
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That would do it.
Heck I just figured it had something to do with me telling Copsey to pound sand in his ass. Happened about the same time.
thomas1
sodium pentothal
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That would do it.
Heck I just figured it had something to do with me telling Copsey to pound sand in his ass. Happened about the same time.
Too easy. :sad:
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
True. Way too easy. :msp_sneaky:
My brother is a cabinet maker and equipped himself with grizzly when he started. Within a year, he cursed and rued the decision he made. The slop in the tolerances cost him a lot of time and material plus the "proprietary" parts drove him crazy.
There is a lot of unadverrtised good machines sitting in shops not used. Push out some feelers ... Estate sales and auctions are another source.
I have had several mills offered to me for free due to moves and marriage status. I don't have the room for it.
I can look for you if you are interested ... Most are 3 phase though.
There is a lot of unadverrtised good machines sitting in shops not used. Push out some feelers ... Estate sales and auctions are another source.
I have had several mills offered to me for free due to moves and marriage status. I don't have the room for it.
I can look for you if you are interested ... Most are 3 phase though.
Dan_IN_MN
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you take it easy on the little thing!
They require a membership just to view the forum! Not happening!
MM, yeah, like others are saying, if you go slow and not hog material off, pay attention to the amount of play in the gibs and backlash in the screws, you'll do fine. Even my old Bridgeport has all of that!
I need to build a enclosure for my converter wiring! I wouldn't even dream of posting a pic of my current 'setup'!
This one is nicely done! Looks like it has an automatic start up too! I have to kick mine (use foot to turn shaft) to get it running! Oh well, it works to power my mill, lathe, and automobile hoist.
They require a membership just to view the forum! Not happening!
MM, yeah, like others are saying, if you go slow and not hog material off, pay attention to the amount of play in the gibs and backlash in the screws, you'll do fine. Even my old Bridgeport has all of that!
I need to build a enclosure for my converter wiring! I wouldn't even dream of posting a pic of my current 'setup'!
This one is nicely done! Looks like it has an automatic start up too! I have to kick mine (use foot to turn shaft) to get it running! Oh well, it works to power my mill, lathe, and automobile hoist.
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Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Size is the biggest consideration for me right now.
Also something I think about is that I use a Harbor Freight lathe that most guys say is complete junk. I cut squish bands, cylinder bases, and popups on it. It needed a bunch of work on it right outta the box to make it useable. I tore it down completely, even removed the headstock and cleaned the gears. The ways and gibs were polished and trued, the tailstock needed aligned. I added a 5" 4 jaw chuck and modified the cross slide for more centerline clearance. I've been using it for a couple of years and it's been a great little machine. I don't cut steel on it though......
Dan_IN_MN
Addicted to ArboristSite
The reason I recommended the Rong Fu is the quill bearings are better than the Grizzly. The over all fit and finish was better. The one I have seen had smaller rollers but more of them, made the bearing smoother. If you are cutting "white" metal at a high cutter speed, with a low feed rate, the better bearings will give a nicer finish. With the G-1006 just be sure to use sharp cutters, it will cut down on vibration in "white" metal, and give a nice finish.
That being said I own a G1006 Grizzly. When I discovered it was out of tram, I completely tore it down. Cleaned out the casting grit, polished and jewelled the ways, polished the gibbs. If you have over hauled a H/F lathe then you know what to do. It turned out to be an accurate machine when finished. I just work within it's limitations. If I have some heavy work in "red" metal then I use my buddies Wells-Index Mill.
A friend bought a new G-1007. When you check tram be sure to do it with the head down and again when raised. I have seen a bent colum on one. When we tramed it, the head was raised up. Then when the head was lowered it went out of tram. Grizzly replaced the machine.
Raising and lowering the head gets to be a pain. There are 2 clamp nuts on the right rear of the head. I made new nuts out of some hex shaft, 4 inches long for the clamp. That way I can leave a ratchet and deep well socket hanging on the nuts. Saves time.
The price of the Mill is the cheap part. The expensive part is all the extras that it takes. I have around 8 times more money in extras than in the machine. Just don't tell the Wife. I got the stand with it. It has a cabinet in the bottom for storage.
I keep a roll of tin foil at the mill and the lathe. I use it to catch swarf. It is easy to shape in to place and makes clean up easy, just wade it up and toss it. Again don't tell the Wife, she is always looking for her tin foil.
You might consider using the mill to do some port work. With a little fab work, a cylinder could be clamped to a G-5759 tilt table. It would allow some intake and exhaust port work. Sharp cutter gives a smooth finish. You could fab a jig to bolt the cylinder to.
When the weather turns bad I will spend more time in the shop. I might post some pictures of some mill work. An exchange of ideas is always a good thing.
Dave
That being said I own a G1006 Grizzly. When I discovered it was out of tram, I completely tore it down. Cleaned out the casting grit, polished and jewelled the ways, polished the gibbs. If you have over hauled a H/F lathe then you know what to do. It turned out to be an accurate machine when finished. I just work within it's limitations. If I have some heavy work in "red" metal then I use my buddies Wells-Index Mill.
A friend bought a new G-1007. When you check tram be sure to do it with the head down and again when raised. I have seen a bent colum on one. When we tramed it, the head was raised up. Then when the head was lowered it went out of tram. Grizzly replaced the machine.
Raising and lowering the head gets to be a pain. There are 2 clamp nuts on the right rear of the head. I made new nuts out of some hex shaft, 4 inches long for the clamp. That way I can leave a ratchet and deep well socket hanging on the nuts. Saves time.
The price of the Mill is the cheap part. The expensive part is all the extras that it takes. I have around 8 times more money in extras than in the machine. Just don't tell the Wife. I got the stand with it. It has a cabinet in the bottom for storage.
I keep a roll of tin foil at the mill and the lathe. I use it to catch swarf. It is easy to shape in to place and makes clean up easy, just wade it up and toss it. Again don't tell the Wife, she is always looking for her tin foil.
You might consider using the mill to do some port work. With a little fab work, a cylinder could be clamped to a G-5759 tilt table. It would allow some intake and exhaust port work. Sharp cutter gives a smooth finish. You could fab a jig to bolt the cylinder to.
When the weather turns bad I will spend more time in the shop. I might post some pictures of some mill work. An exchange of ideas is always a good thing.
Dave
parrisw
Tree Freak
That would do it.
Heck I just figured it had something to do with me telling Copsey to pound sand in his ass. Happened about the same time.
Randy, I'm pretty sure Eric has nothing to do with N-S forum.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Great post. Thanks Dave.
