I got a few cords of wood (white oak, black oak and hard maple) all were cut down in March 2006...but were just left there (off the ground but not split or cut) then about 2 months ago they were split We only had about 2-4 rain storms in the past 8 months. It was a very dry year...the wood is all cracking at the ends...appears dry...but what is the best way to know for sure? It stormed really bad yesterday and the wood is all SOAKED now. But I am wondering other than trying to BURN IT what is the best way to tell? And can wood season by just being cut down and not split? THANKS!
I need Help! Is my wood dry?
- Thread starter Ric3077
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WoodTick007
Addicted to ArboristSite
No it is not dry.
Mike Barcaskey
ArboristSite Operative
one good sign that it's on its way is if the bark is popping off.
other than that, burn a few pieces
other than that, burn a few pieces
SmokinDodge
Powered by Cummins
It takes at least nine months after wood is SPLIT to fully dry. The clock starts ticking when it is split.
wdchuck
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well, something you can try, if you have a south facing spot at your place, stack the wood up with good air space in-between each piece and off the ground of course, then during the day(sunny is better) place a cover of clear plastic sheeting on it with the excess snug around the bottom.
This will act a little like a solar drier, but loosen up the plastic alot at the end of the day, it will help some. If you have a thermometer around you can put it on the shade side and read it through the plastic, this setup can reach temps of 140* on a nice sunny day, not many in october but you have only to gain.
If you do not let the plastic air out at the end of the day the moisture level will just stay in there.
I'm building a leanto woodshed to incorporate this same idea, kills the bugs and molds.
This will act a little like a solar drier, but loosen up the plastic alot at the end of the day, it will help some. If you have a thermometer around you can put it on the shade side and read it through the plastic, this setup can reach temps of 140* on a nice sunny day, not many in october but you have only to gain.
If you do not let the plastic air out at the end of the day the moisture level will just stay in there.
I'm building a leanto woodshed to incorporate this same idea, kills the bugs and molds.
Mike Barcaskey
ArboristSite Operative
the wood WILL start to dry out without being split, and will dry out in log form eventually. It will take much longer.
1CallLandscape
ArboristSite Operative
i would have to say try burning a log or two after it dries out from the rain. it isnt fully dry yet but most likely will burn just fine. was your pile in a sunny place????
-mike
-mike
johnha
ArboristSite Guru
It depends on the type of wood, how its stacked, sunshine and airflow, but in my conditions oak and maple require about a year after splitting to dry properly.
WoodTick007
Addicted to ArboristSite
No it is not dry.
Your best bet is to purchase 5- 6 face cords of seasoned wood and mix the unseasoned Oak in one piece for every two seasoned pieces.
Alot has to do with the size you split your wood. If you split your wood so your wife can look at a "nice" fire..... little sticks that burn quickly often producing pretty flames....then your wood might be seasoned.
If you split your wood so that your stove will hold two, many be three pieces of wood and your burn times are 6-10 hours. It usually takes a good 12-16 months for oak to season here in michigan. The drying season here in my opinion is from May until September... unless you keep your wood in a well ventailated woodshed.
Your best bet is to purchase 5- 6 face cords of seasoned wood and mix the unseasoned Oak in one piece for every two seasoned pieces.
Alot has to do with the size you split your wood. If you split your wood so your wife can look at a "nice" fire..... little sticks that burn quickly often producing pretty flames....then your wood might be seasoned.
If you split your wood so that your stove will hold two, many be three pieces of wood and your burn times are 6-10 hours. It usually takes a good 12-16 months for oak to season here in michigan. The drying season here in my opinion is from May until September... unless you keep your wood in a well ventailated woodshed.
Thanks everyone...WOODTICK I am burning not to heat but for entertaining etc...the wood is mostly 16" lenghths, some are rounds some are split...I may try the mixing it idea...do you think the wood I have now would be 100% seasoned by this FEB?
Call around your area and find someone that has a moisture meter-usually stoveshops and/or firewood dealers will have one. Ask them if you can take a few pieces to have it tested for moisture content. You'll want it to be 25% moisture or less; this is the only real way that you'll know if it is dry or not. Oaks take a looooong time to dry out, Maple not as long. Have it tested and you'll be better off. Good luck!
WoodTick007
Addicted to ArboristSite
Don't waste your time with a moisture meter....
I did not know that you are not heating with the wood. Just split it into smaller pieces and burn it. Start out with a nice hot fire.... I would use some skid wood. I believe in the top down burning and not the bottom up like most people. Top down meaning load your stove with your wood and place your kindling on top. The smaller pieces of oak will dry while burning. You might have to add some additional kindling until the first logs get good coals.
I did not know that you are not heating with the wood. Just split it into smaller pieces and burn it. Start out with a nice hot fire.... I would use some skid wood. I believe in the top down burning and not the bottom up like most people. Top down meaning load your stove with your wood and place your kindling on top. The smaller pieces of oak will dry while burning. You might have to add some additional kindling until the first logs get good coals.
WoodTick007 said:Don't waste your time with a moisture meter....
How could this be considered a "waste of time"?
RaisedByWolves
Addicted to ArboristSite
Unless your willing to spend $200-300 for one its only going to tell you surface moisture. This has nothing to do with the woods moisture content.
RaisedByWolves said:
Thats right..but that's why I told him to go to a stoveshop or firewood dealer because they SHOULD have the kind that you slide-hammer the pins deep into the wood to get an accurate reading. I'm not talking about these $30 pieces of junk from Harbor Freight or other places; I'm talking about the REAL kind so that this guy can at least get an idea where he's at as far as moisture content. He could be close to being dry, or he could be still very wet-especially since he has two kinds of Oak!
WoodTick007
Addicted to ArboristSite
PA. Woodsman said:WoodTick007 said:Don't waste your time with a moisture meter....
Do you take your moisture meter out to the woodpile, pound it into the next piece of wood your considering burning , check the reading in a few locations on the log and then start over with the next one? Better yet, how about in the middle of a snow or ice storm....? Must have ALOT of time on your hands..... 10-15 pieces of wood a day. Or do you just, "Spot Check" random logs? ...... How could it be considered a "waste of time". One does not need to be "Rocket Scientist" to cyfer that one out.
WoodTick007 said:
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