I want to start milling my own wood

[Zombie saw]

Hi all,
I have been wanting to make a chainsaw mill. I have seen a lot of different Ideas on the webb, but I'm not sure what works the best. I have seen guys using some cool contractions that bolt to your saw. I have seen them using 2x4s.

I'm going to be using a sachs dolmar 112 chainsaw it is a 51cc saw after I rebuild it. I plan on using a 20inch bar and a sharp chain. I have a tree picked out it is not a very wide diameter its around 12 or 14 inches.

I don't want to spend thousands I would like to make it my self.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Going to be humorously slow with that small of a saw.

 

[IyaMan]

Consider a Granberg 'small log mill' instead of making your own. Can be bought for about $140.

But as mentioned, your saw is on the small side, and will not only be slow but also a potential case for melt-down in wood wider than 8 or 9 inches, especially hardwood. Long rip cuts generate A LOT of heat and strain on the engine.

Go slow and break often. Don't shutdown immediately, just let the internal fan cool the saw for a couple minutes on idle after cutting.

Maybe before any mill investment you should do a test case once your saw is up and working. Sharpen the chain and do a rip cut into a log for a foot or so. See what kind of power is needed and if you are satisfied with the time/effort involved. Then consider whether milling is applicable for that saw.

 

[BobL]

You will be OK on that saw. Just take it easy and don't force it.
Efficient milling is all about forming the cutters correctly and sharpening well and often - after every tank of fuel I touch up the cutters, just 2-3 swipes. After every ~4 tanks I swipe the rakers 2-3 times.
Read the milling 101 thread through and then ask questions about what you don'y understand in the thread and other things - this is a very helpful community we can teach just about anyone to be a successful CSMer,

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

I suppose speed is subjective. I'm used to a 50hp Woodmizer, so really any chainsaw mill is laughably slow... not that the Woodmizer is lightning quick either.

Chainmills are great for out in the bush though. Or for a home jobber cutting a few hundred bd ft a year.

 

[SeMoTony]

Going to be humorously slow with that small of a saw.

You would have really enjoyed my beginnings w/ms170 & a timbermate tm*** from HF. Was thrilled w/first 4x4 post (-; Timber mate is avaiable thru amazon for $25 now a daze. Placed more & more $ into this . But even at that What invested would not buy basemodel wood mizer that has no wheels. Can cut wide & close to ground for those specialty slices, but to each that which assists in filling our niche'

 

[Cabin by the Creek]

I went with the Panthermill 2. A 24" goes around $149.99. Its all steel and I preferred it to an aluminum mill. I felt the weight balances the head better and durability is an issue for me. I have used a Logosol M7 for years which is aluminum. Aluminum and saws don't always play well together. Don't ask me how I know. Picking up and dropping logs, tractors etc. the aluminum seemed so delicate. Plus with some basic welding skills its real easy to modify. Sure you can easily build one yourself but at that price point my time is worth more.

 

[BobL]

Aluminum and saws don't always play well together. Don't ask me how I know. Picking up and dropping logs, tractors etc. the aluminum seemed so delicate.

I agree Al does have its problems, nuts have to be kept tight up against holes and fixings, threads direct into Al wear quicker and its prone to getting bent. However a good design and a bit of basic care is all that is needed to keep it in good shape. Where hard contact with things like the bar are needed steel pads can be inserted to get better wear characteristics.

The all aluminium BIL mill has cut ~150 logs and is still in really good shape. I never leave any mill on the ground but take a study trestle table with me and place it on that so that makes it easier to see when moving tractors around it, as well as making it much easier to service and sharpen with the mill on the table.

In contrast it was one half of my steel log rails that were run over by a truck and had to be replaced.

 

[Zombie saw]

Thanks for the opinions. I feel the saw will work for what I plan on doing for the first few trees. When I get the saw running I'll have to do a test and see which one of my saws will work better. I also have a echo cs490 I'm pretty sure the old dolmar had more power, but I have not used them both at ones.
Mabe I'll give one of those $25 mills a try first.
I do like the design of the $140 mills better though.

 

[kimosawboy]

For my 2cents, just make one out of plywood like this fellow..

Then if you decide that this might be for you, think about makiing a decent one for that will be usfull for your tiny bar but also adjustable for something longer in the future.

Have fun.
G Vavra

 

[Cabin by the Creek]

I agree Al does have its problems, nuts have to be kept tight up against holes and fixings, threads direct into Al wear quicker and its prone to getting bent. However a good design and a bit of basic care is all that is needed to keep it in good shape. Where hard contact with things like the bar are needed steel pads can be inserted to get better wear characteristics.

The all aluminium BIL mill has cut ~150 logs and is still in really good shape. I never leave any mill on the ground but take a study trestle table with me and place it on that so that makes it easier to see when moving tractors around it, as well as making it much easier to service and sharpen with the mill on the table.

In contrast it was one half of my steel log rails that were run over by a truck and had to be replaced.

I realize Zombiesaw is looking for a DIY or low entry point mill. The aluminum Logosol has been great and for 15 plus years has processed tons of wood. I agree if you care for it it will last, but it has its limitations with weight. Pennsylvania hardwoods done look much like the telephone pole looking, perfectly round smooth bark wood in the marketing videos and when you need a replacement piece, hold on to the wallet.

 

[Boogedy_Man]

I started milling with a Husky 460 (60cc) in a Granberg small mill. Just a couple months ago. I found it was fine in 12-14" stuff provided I kept it sharp. Beyond that it slowed to a crawl very quickly. I have two now....a Stihl 661 that handles up to 36" and a 461 that does up to 22". Fun.

Milling is addictive....very addictive. Since you're already showing tendencies, go have fun

 

[Garrit]

Start slow, search garage sales and Clist. You will always be searching for that 'next bigger saw' so keep an eye out.

I based my mill like the above youtube video. I'm very happy with the cost, performance and simplicity of the design.

Here's what I have.
Homelite 410 with 30 inch bar
Full chisel chain filed to 10 degrees
I recently added a oiler for the tip of the bar. (old snowblower gas tank with shut off valve)

Good Luck and don't forget to read though the Milling 101 Thread. Lots of great info in there!