Ideal carb setting for a 200T

[Greenclimber]

I just got a 200T the other day for cheap... Very lightly used 16" bar, chain at 98% The guy said that it just had a new carb installed on it... When I tested it out it seemed to be running very rich. Lots of smoke, and it kept cutting off... I figured that if it was a new carb it was not set right at all...

So for the price I decided to get the saw... It started, felt like it had good compression, oiled, and wasn't that dirty looking. Just a small crack on the air cover housing.

I messed with it today. Dumped the old gas, added some new fresh 100% gas with stihl synthetic stuff.

Still smoke, but less... Checked the plug and it wasn't fowled. It was actually brand new looking just about. (I don't know what the gap is supposed to be... Does anyone?) I put the plug back in, and started it up again.

I tried running it in some wood... sinking all 16" into some oak... Bogged down, and ran very badly. My modded 192t has more power. (However I've got a 12" bar on that) I kept making very bogged down cuts while trying to adjust the carbs to make them leaner... Some success, but still very little power, and the saw kept shutting off...

So I went ahead and took off the muffler. Looked at the piston, cylinder, and rings... They look brand new. Maybe a rebuild, because the saw had been used just judge by the dirtyness behind the muffler.

Took the muffler apart and found the culprit. A clogged screen at about 60%. So I figured why not go ahead and mod the muffler while I'm inside of it + clean the screen.

I'm not sure how you guys mod mufflers, but I just went ahead and cut out the entire area that had the holes machined in them with my dremel tool.... I also make the exhaust exit a little larger. (Not where the cylinder meets the muffler, but where the exhaust leaves the muffler) I simply enlarged the very narrow slit that curves in a little bit by about 20-25%. The curve is now straight.

Put every thing back together. And started it up.... Still smokey, but a little bit more power... So I adjusted the low end. to where the chain started moving, then I back it up until it stopped. (Now the saw doesn't turn off on me anymore.)
Then I adjusted the high end however I don't think that I got it perfect. Or even close to perfect.

On my other saws the high end won't run when I have the needle turned in all the way. I'll just call this 0 turns. On my other saws it seems best at around 1.5-2.5 turns out. (192t, 038 magnum, 066, echo cs400)

On the 200t the saw seems to run the same with the high end at 0, (lean?) and it starts to run badly at about 3 - 3.5 turns out (rich?).

So in-between there should be a sweet spot, but I can't seem to find it 100%. I have it to where it seems to be getting the most power. I would think that the muffler mod would have made this saw a wild thing...(oh I did leave the screen in after removing the baffles) However I would expect that I could completely bury the 16" bar without it getting bogged down and the chain getting stuck and making that blahhhhh noise. Right?

Saw still seems to lack power. Apply pressure to the saw with the bar fully buried and it goes "blahhhhhh"

Also, the bar gets very hot very fast, and smokes a bit. The chain seems sharp, and there seems to be oil when I test it for spin off) Oiler is turned all the way up too.

Maybe my chain is to tight? I don't usually have any trouble with the bar getting to hot and making smoke...

So my question is: Why is this 200t such weak ass saw and getting all bogged down...Is the bar to large for this saw? 14inch maybe ideal? Can I change out my 192t bars with the 200t? Will the sprocket match up with a 1.1mm chain vs 1.3mm?

Thanks!!
&
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[CR888]

...l a little dizzy from the long post, but congrats on the new saw the 200t is a great package when running well. Clogged spark arrestor screens can really hamper performance on these saws. It sounds like you need to resest the carb screws to factory spec which is inscribed on the triangular rubber grommet surrounding the adjustment holes. A propane torch will clean that screen up or a wire brush. lf the chain is spinning at correct idle setting the clutch springs may be on the way out. Maybe a pressure/vac test may put your mind at ease. You say the piston/rings were replaced...was the cylinder replaced if so wasit OEM or AM? A well tuned 200t will rarely dissapoint its user no matter what side of the fence he sits. There are some folk round here that could assemble this saw in thier sleep so l am sure we'll solve this!

 

[cutforfun]

1 turn out on h and l needles , turn the idle down if the chain is spinning or up if will not continue to run. Start from there, if it will not run you have other problems. Carb,fuel lines filter and so on.

 

[Greenclimber]

You say the piston/rings were replaced...was the cylinder replaced if so wasit OEM or AM? A well tuned 200t will rarely dissapoint its user no matter what side of the fence he sits.

the piston, rings, and cylinder look like they are in great shape. They look brand new, or have very low hours on them. I don't know for sure... This is only going on looks. I don't have any proof that they are brand new.
I'll start from factory like you said, and work from there.

I should be able to have this bar (16") fully buried without any problems right? The last small saw that I used with a 16" bar was a 026 pro... And that guy ate wood with no problems, + had a dull chain. It kept high RPMs, and did not bog down even with the dull chain....However that's an 026 with 48cc or 49cc vs 200t with 35cc... So I can't really compare the two can I?

 

[Greenclimber]

Oh, and the spark screen has been cleaned up to brand new conditions. However I was thinking of doing away with it all together...

 

[Greenclimber]

Still can't figure out why the bar was getting so hot. It was making the oil smoke/cook right off the bar...