If you had a stock 385XP

[Full Skip]

- and you were going to dedicate it to milling with an Alaskan mill
- and you didn't have the option of being a smart alec and trade it for another saw...:greenchainsaw:

What modifications would you make?

 

[timberwolf]

For a milling saw that would see no other work.

Open the muffler, or better yet make up a shallow coned tuned pipe with a wide powerband between 8-10k.

Some mild porting aimed at giving extra torque in the same 8-10k range. Hp numbers might even drop a bit at high end, but who cares, you would have more grunt where you would be needing it.

 

[1953greg]

timberwolf,

im ready to do some porting but am unclear on one point.
precisely where would the porting be done on the intake and exhaust ports. when i read to lower the intake does that mean to lower the top of the intake (by adding metal) AND bottom (by removing metal), thus the port would be the same size, or only lower the bottom of the intake thus making the port larger?

and raise the top of the exhaust?

maybe 1mm?

thanks in advance 1953greg

 

[twistedtree]

Start it up, make sure it's not tuned too lean, and start using it.

 

[Newfie]

Start it up, make sure it's not tuned too lean, and start using it.

That's kooky talk!

 

[Oregon_Rob]

Well bro (I'm in Buxton), I can tell you what not to do with a new 385xp for milling. Don't do a high end mod that gets the RPM's up, but kills your Torque. Don't ask me how i know that:deadhorse:
If you need any advice, you can give me a call 971 998-6503

Rob

 

[MacDaddy]

Just do a muffler mod and put it on the bar and chain side because that is the side that is down when you mill and it wont blow up in your face as bad The 385 has good grunt stock but you can get some more out of it just by making the exhaust port wider The intake side of the piston can be cut about 2 mm shorter All this will help a little but milling is always slow hard work so I would just keep the chain sharp and it will be your biggest gain

 

[Full Skip]

Thanks for the good info.

Venting the exhaust down on a muffler modification definitely sounds like a good idea. I guess that I'll hold off on anything further for right now. This is my first stab at milling. I think that the 385xp will be enough to run a 24" Alaskan through mainly pine and hemlock. I was wondering how concerned I need to be with heat and whether modifications other than to the muffler make sense.

 

[KarlP]

Even a stock 385xp should have the power for 24" cuts in soft woods. The 36" mill from Harbor Freight is pretty price competitive with 24" mills from other sources. You can always "shrink" an oversized mill. Its a lot harder to "grow" a undersized one.

Also keep in mind you loose several inches if you don't want to clamp on the sprocket tip or have to remove the dogs. I'd suggest a 32" bar if you want to make 24" boards.

 

[Lakeside53]

Also keep in mind you loose several inches if you don't want to clamp on the sprocket tip or have to remove the dogs. I'd suggest a 32" bar if you want to make 24" boards.

yes, you'll need a 32 inch bar. Just as a point of reference, I get only 21 inches from a 28 inch bar, dogs removed. You can't clamp anywhere within the sprocket bearing area - I stay behind or on the front mount rivet to be safe. Grandberg Alaska Mk3 mill...

 

[CaseyForrest]

I also got just over 21" with a 28" bar. I could get almost 2 more inches if I slap the mill right against the saw, but like the room for the exhaust to breath.

As far as where the mill mounts to the end of the bar, Ive found I have to center the screw in the center of the rivets for the sprocket or it pinches and wont let the sprocket turn.

 

[Lakeside53]

I also got just over 21" with a 28" bar. I could get almost 2 more inches if I slap the mill right against the saw, but like the room for the exhaust to breath.

As far as where the mill mounts to the end of the bar, Ive found I have to center the screw in the center of the rivets for the sprocket or it pinches and wont let the sprocket turn.

That why you get two more inches than me... I back it off to the front mount rivet, not the bearing rivet... I stay outside of the sprocket rotation...

 

[Tree Sling'r]

If I had a new stock 385XP, I would have a new target for sighting in my new Browning BAR .270

 

[Freakingstang]

If I had a new stock 385XP, I would have a new target for sighting in my new Browning BAR .270

Well, how about a well used and abused 385 or the red version?

 

[Gypo Logger]

:spam:

Just do a muffler mod and put it on the bar and chain side because that is the side that is down when you mill and it wont blow up in your face as bad The 385 has good grunt stock but you can get some more out of it just by making the exhaust port wider The intake side of the piston can be cut about 2 mm shorter All this will help a little but milling is always slow hard work so I would just keep the chain sharp and it will be your biggest gain

Mike's advice is good for the 385 and your requirements, especially the intake and muffler. It's not exactly what I would do, however, no two people file or grind chain exactly either. There is nothing cookie cutter about mods of any kind.
The fun of it is the variables we are presented with. As long as you're conservative it's impossible to go wrong.
There are saw builders come and gone that would have you believe saw building is only for a select few, however, they simply weren't giving the straight goods.
Learn all you can about saw mods and have some fun, because two years from now basic mods done by everyday people will be as common as welding a washer on your muffler.
Go one step at a time, try to find a discarded barrel to experiment on, or simply fix up a scored barrel and piston and try it. You'll be pleasantly surprised and you won't be out any $ if you screw up, but that is well nigh impossible unless your totaly hammerfisted.
John

 

[Sawyer Rob]

If I had a new stock 385XP, I would have a new target for sighting in my new Browning BAR .270

"If" that Browning didn't blow up, those puny 270 bullets would probably bounce off the saw!!!

Rob

 

[Full Skip]

"If" that Browning didn't blow up, those puny 270 bullets would probably bounce off the saw!!!

Rob

:biggrinbounce2:

Seriously! Who shoots Browning? That's like the 10" bar Remington electric of the rifle world. where do they make them these days anyway? Indonesia?

 

[Gypo Logger]

Here's a modded 385 that Ken Dunn built. Cliff Helsel is using the 385 I built on his logging operation. For every tree I fall annually, Cliff and his son Phillip probably cut 100, so my work should get a good run. I am presently building Cliff another 385 so they have a pair of them.
Anyway, check out this vid of Ken's saw cutting a 22" Red Elm, which is without a doubt the toughest domestic wood in N.A.
BTW, that's gotta be the dorkiest looking hat I have ever seen, no wonder Helsel gave it to me.

John

PS, it was only a 655KB vid and I got knocked off line 3 times, so will try later.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Anyway, I rebooted so here's the movie of the dude in the dorky hat.
It seems I already uploaded the vid I was chirping about so here's a different one. The branches of the Red Elm are so tough they didn't even break and held the tree up which had 700 board feet in it.
Being chubby lil bugger and having one foot in the grave and the other on a bananna peel and whatnot, I like to be able to drive to every stump.
Hahaha
John