Inquiry about my gear setup and choices, any advice greatly appreciated!

[HusqyStihl]

Correct me at any point if i get anything wrong or especially if i'm missing something in this climbing gear setup i'm considering: (fyi, the setup i'm configuring is strictly for learning the ropes and to climb so i'm not yet looking at additional attachments for saws or anything else that i wouldnt need just to ascend and decend a tree until i'm getting decent at climbing... one step at a time. And does this mean i gotta get rid of the big saws to get the top-handles??

Matt Cornell Rope Saddle (advertised as infinite adjustability, very traditional, plenty of attachment points and ability to relocate them anyway preferred, capable of taking suspender add-ons if chainsaw weight/other weight to high, very easy to adjust)

Rope Runner / All Gear / Cherry Bomb or KMIII? 150' lengths & 220ft lengths rope

Added foot ascender? (would love feedback about this, really any of my choices also)

Obviously a GOOD first aid kit and first aid/cpr certification coming right up asap.

I know there is more, and i believe this is an SRT setup. I would just like to know what else would be essential. I plan to visit Vermeer Northeast not to far from me (Upstate NY / Castleton, NY)

Biners? extra lengths of rope? throw bags/string? carrying case/bag? stuff i'm forgetting?...

I plan on calling in hopes to meet up with some not so local climbers to watch, listen and learn also so that would help. If only there was a list of exact needs and another of wants. but i understand all systems are different.

Or should i just get out a couple of fall suspension full body harnesses i have from a previous warehouse job years ago and a 3 ton winch with remote control to launch over a crotch and winch my ass up in the tree off my trucks bumber?? Smooooth!! Wonder if that allowed at the US competitions

As always, all suggestions (especially if you've used this combo or kit parts before) will be highly appreciated.

~Moose

EDIT: My boot size is 15W, havin a bit of trouble looking through sponsor sites to find anything that big. I know foot gear matters, but can i just look into basic logging boots on other sites where i can find my size??

 

[HusqyStihl]

Basically i was intrigued about the above video...

 

[Black Dogg]

Moose,

not to bust your bubble, but if I was you I'd start learning to climb on a doubled rope system (DdRT) first, like the one shown on the second saddle.
Like I said in your other thread I've been learning to climb for a little over a year now and that's the easiest to start with IMHO. It is also a lot cheaper to get started with (you were concerned about cost) and you can always upgrade to the "fancy stuff" later on.
I have recently switched from Blake's Hitch to a Valdotain Tresse with Micropulley and even that took some getting used to (it's still doubled rope climbing). Those mechanical hitches and other SRT gear may be in my future at some point but for now I'm just focusing on moving efficiently up and in the tree. As I understand it, the mech. hitches are a lot more responsive than rope hitches, so if you don't have experience what could be a little slip with a Blake's could probably let you fall out of the tree with a mech.
In a lot of climbing /working vids on youtube I see DdRT used by the best of them (August Hunicke, Reg Coates, Brian Bixler, ....) so that tells me something.
Also, like I said in the other thread, the kit from Wesspur (or similar) will have everything you need to get started and at a big discount (if I recall it was about 18% vs. buying separate) and there's really nothing there that you don't need.

Just my $0.02

Black Dogg

 

[I'llbearealclimberoneday]

The best climbing gear is highly personal. What works for one style may not be the most efficient for another. Take the first style harness for example. Air humping sucks. It jolts your body and shock loads your TIP. The same thing with a split tail or E2Epulley setup, its the preferred style of harness for some when the job is all upright climbing. Think palm trimming and basic conifer removals.

The harnesses with adjustable leg straps and rope bridges, can offer a little more maneuverability side to side, but sometimes get a little "invasive". For trees where swinging, jumping out to branches and a lot of turning is involved, this style shines.
FWIW, I use both types.

As far as DRT or SRT? Both. There's pros and cons to each. And plenty of info available without a need of me getting in to it.

I'd suggest doing a little more research on rope types and various hitch/mechanical setups before pulling the trigger on a truck load of gear. With a better understanding of climbing technique, you'll have a better grip on what you'll need and actually use.
Starting with the basics is just fine.
Wesspur (multiple flawless transactions) lets you substitute gear in the kits.
All of this is IMO/YMMV.

A must haves for me
"Bypass prussic" its a biner with an E2E that I use on my main climb line to bypass branches. (horizontal obstacles for my vertical rope)

A 2in1 lanyard with a swivel. I use this alot moving around the outside of Decurrent trees.
(You can tie in with both sides, unclip the side you no longer need and the swiveled keeps it all in order)
My favorite lanyard is 30' of 16 strand

Working down the spar, a steelcore on the outside rings with a HH to the center ring. A Running bowline with a few feet of tail is easy to put slack in and move up and down. The prussic for the flipline can be cut and the HH will get me to the ground in a few seconds if something unexpected happens. You'll read about injuries and 45 minute rescues. This setup doesn't eliminate that completely, but it sure lessens the chances of not being able to get down.

A small tenex loopie and biner as a redirect
A few webbing slings (youtube "beer knot")
A good phone holster


And a burrito in my hoody pocket

 

[TheShanks]

I'm not a pro climber at all but I was taught from the start to use the basic, old school stuff. DRT, Blakes hitch, closed system, etc. Then worked on the same system but with a split tail. I much prefer the distel on a hitch climber set up I've been using for a long while now. One handed tending is the best. But in the event that I have to climb up a tree to rescue someone and all my fancy eye to eyes and micro pullys were not close by I can do it all with 1 rope and a flip line.

Like I said, I'm no pro, take my advice as you wish but start out and do enough climbs to memorize a DRT - closed system. Then move onto a split tail. If you can get efficient at climbing on that the micropully stuff will turn you into a lightning bolt.

Same can be said for footlocking, SRT or DRT. I prefer DRT still. If you can learn to foot lock with a prussik at least you have that to fall back on should your foot accender or hand accender fail. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Griff93]

Moose,

Buy a decent saddle to start out with. Climbing takes enough out of you learning how to do it without being in an uncomfortable saddle. The buckingham deluxe saddles fit me well and are comfortable. Nothing wrong with other saddles either. Just my personal preference. I do not like the 4D style saddles.

Get a nice 150' 16 strand rope. I like hi vee but there's tons of great ropes out there. Plan to cut 15 ft off it for your lanyard. Get at least 4 triple lock carabiners and two snaps. Get 10 ft of whatever hitchcord you prefer. I like ocean polyester in 10mm. Learn how to tie scaffold knots or water knots so you can use the hitch cord. Buy two throw bags and a thing of throwline. This is all the gear you need to start climbing other than a helmet. Will you move onto other stuff as time goes on? Sure you will. We all do. You should learn how to climb with the basics first.

You need to learn the following knots:
Blakes hitch or Tautline
Prusik hitch
Scaffold knot or Buntline
Water knot or Beer knot
Clove hitch (for tying your throw line to your rope so you can pull it over a limb)
Bowline

Ask away if you need to know how to use any of these. I'll even dig my climbing setup out of the truck one day this week and take specific pictures of stuff if you want (IE how to setup a double ended lanyard, etc). Remember, climbing can be deadly so make sure 100% that you are tying the knots correctly. Low and slow at least at first.

 

[HusqyStihl]

I appreciate all the advice! I got 200' of Yale XTC Fire that i can take some off the end opposite the tight sewn eye, 2 Rock O Biners (triact), 2 Petzl William (triact), CMI micro pulley, eye2eye sewn beeline, Ultra Hi-Vee Spilt-Tail, ABR 2in1 Positioning Lanyard with ABR hip prusik (steel snaps), CT Rescue 8, Weaver Saw Bungee Strap so far. Yet to decide on a saddle, of course i have my eye on top quality but looking more like something more financially lower like the Buck Deluxe mentioned..

Im kinda glad ive got time prior to getting a saddle, its letting me work on my knots, climbing setup etc.

Debating/thinkin about:
Saddle
Climbing Helmet
First Aid Kit
Throw Lines
15' off Yale (homemade 2in1)
More Triacts
More prusik lines
Pulleys
HH system
Bunch of other additions...

Obviously ive now got CGAD (Climbing Gear Acquistion Disorder). So much more i want...

Also ive had all groundie wear... Husq Chaps, Steel Toe Loggers, Husq Full hardhat setup (built in visor/hearing protection) but not good for climbing even though i can add a 4 strap to it..


Oh, and a recent addition of an Echo CS-271T which wont leave the ground until ive done well with multiple systems and setups and very comfortable with a saw in the air. Almost thinking about selling a bunch of my ground/larger saws for T-Handles of quality..

 

[I'llbearealclimberoneday]

I wouldn't rush to cut a 200 footer. Remnant sections are super cheap and the different characteristics of the ropes will become more apparent over time. To some, a lanyard is a lanyard, and that's it.

For the occasional tree that I know I'm going to have to set different tie ins in, I'll use a very long 24strand lanyard, basically a second DdRT set up.

For the majority of what we've been doing lately, deadwooding (Liquidambars, pin Oaks and a bunch of cones) the lanyard is a second tie in and position reinforcement while cutting. On those trees, the lanyard is a 16strand NE Safety Blue. It seems to grip the spar almost as well as a 12strand, but wears better. That same rope sucks for trying to pass over branches to move vertically because it sticks and the weight of a rope snap won't bring it back.

I also wouldn't hesitate to sell a big saw for a harness. A gap in saw sizes can be a pain sometimes, but not as bad as a gap in the climbing system.

By the way, that little Echo makes for a badass prune/deadwooding saw. I'd still recommend getting a good hand saw.

 

[HusqyStihl]

True, didnt even think about clearance ropes to whip up some lanyards