Is 2 ripping chains enough to start out with milling? And purchase advice!

[JasonMS660]

Hi Gents,
I'm new to CS milling and planning on getting a Alaskan 36" mill. I own a new MS660 and a MS390. I don't plan to do any milling with the 390 though might use it for the mini mill to do the edges. I'm in Australia and own a small 50 ac block and just plan on milling timber for myself, just bridge timbers and stuff for building a barn so just posts and beams etc.
To start out with I was thinking of at 36" bar and 2 ripping chains plus a aux bar oiler. Do you guys think this is enough to get me going?

Thanks in advance Jason
P.S I'm only looking at cutting mostly hardwoods like stringy bark, black wood peppermint gum and Vic ash. I run the saw in well before milling too!

 

[Nato]

Shure, give it a try and then you can decide if you need more investment in equipment or not.

 

[flashhole]

I'm going through this now. I bought a 30" Alaskan Mill thinking I could use it with my 32" bar. I can ... but I lose too much of the length to get the full capability of the mill. If you go with 36" mill you will need a 42" bar to get full use of the mill so make sure your saw can pull the 42" chain. I will be picking up a 36" bar and chain for my mill this weekend. My saw is a Husqvarna 394 XP.

 

[JasonMS660]

I'm going through this now. I bought a 30" Alaskan Mill thinking I could use it with my 32" bar. I can ... but I lose too much of the length to get the full capability of the mill. If you go with 36" mill you will need a 42" bar to get full use of the mill so make sure your saw can pull the 42" chain. I will be picking up a 36" bar and chain for my mill this weekend. My saw is a Husqvarna 394 XP.

I'm thinking that the 660 won't run a 42" bar too well. My thinking was if I run a 36" bar and mill I could cut up to about 32" which for me is heaps. In the past for bigger logs I have got a Lucus Mill in. At this stage I'm not looking at slabbing. TBH I'm concerned that cutting over 32" will be too hard on the saw and me in Aussie hardwood. I also use the 660 for firewood with the 25" bar which has awesome so far. I've only limited funds to how at it as in Australia this stuff gts expensive real quick!

 

[flashhole]

Sorry about the crappy pic from my cell phone. This is my 30 inch mill on my 32" bar. You can see if I use a 36" bar the extra 4 inches will fill the space to the left giving me full use of the mill. I lose about 1 inch from the saw dogs. This is similar to what you can expect if you use a 36" bar on a 36" mill. I measure a full 29 inches of "cut" with this mill but I haven't yet tried it on a log.

 

[JasonMS660]

Sorry about the crappy pic from my cell phone. This is my 30 inch mill on my 32" bar. You can see if I use a 36" bar the extra 4 inches will fill the space to the left giving me full use of the mill. I lose about 1 inch from the saw dogs. This is similar to what you can expect if you use a 36" bar on a 36" mill. I measure a full 29 inches of "cut" with this mill but I haven't yet tried it on a log.

Ah ok , maybe I should go with the 36" bar and get the 32" mill. Like I said I'm not planning to mill over that as I don't want to cook the saw. Thanks

 

[BobL]

Hi Gents,
I'm new to CS milling and planning on getting a Alaskan 36" mill. I own a new MS660 and a MS390. I don't plan to do any milling with the 390 though might use it for the mini mill to do the edges. I'm in Australia and own a small 50 ac block and just plan on milling timber for myself, just bridge timbers and stuff for building a barn so just posts and beams etc.
To start out with I was thinking of at 36" bar and 2 ripping chains plus a aux bar oiler. Do you guys think this is enough to get me going?

Personally I would still get a 42" bar over a 36" as you will lose 6" of bar anyway. The 660 will easily pull a 42", remember even cutting a 36" log you only cut a couple of passes at 36". You may only rarely use those extra 6" but it comes in handy just getting around bumps on the side of logs or cutting up an interesting rootball or crotch.

2 loops will be enough to get started but bear in mind that a couple of milling passes on a Stringy log will leave your chain cutting real slow.
It depends if you sharpen with a grinder and swap chains because then you will need more than half a dozen loops for Aussie hardwood.
If you can do it learn to touch up while the saw is on the mill as this saves buying extra loops.

I'm only looking at cutting mostly hardwoods like stringy bark, black wood peppermint gum and Vic ash. I run the saw in well before milling too!

Nice!

 

[JasonMS660]

Well Bob that's go enough for me, You would know what Aussie hardwood would be all about in WA. 42" bar it is then, I've got a bench grinder though I really prefer to use a file. Gee I'm surprised the 660 can handle a 42" bar. I did weigh up getting a 880 however was concerned with the weight because I do cut a fare bit of firewood. Hey Bob will the ms390 be ok for a mini mill to do the vertical cuts on the logs?
Thanks guys again for your advice.
Cheers Jason

 

[flashhole]

You will likely need an auxiliary oiler with a 42" bar.

 

[JasonMS660]

You will likely need an auxiliary oiler with a 42"
Yeah thanks flashhole, I was planning on getting one anyway, seems to be
Good insurance. I've read that you can use vegetable oil in the aux but not in the oil tank in the saw. The bar oil is so expensive, I don't mind it in the saw but if I can save the good oil for the saw I would be better on the pocket. What were you planning on using.

 

[BobL]

Well Bob that's go enough for me, You would know what Aussie hardwood would be all about in WA. 42" bar it is then, I've got a bench grinder though I really prefer to use a file. Gee I'm surprised the 660 can handle a 42" bar.

If you were going to use it for felling or bucking then I wouldn't recommend it but when you put a bar on a conventional CSM you will lose 6" of bar and even when milling a 36" wide log you don't make many cuts at the full 36".

Now to maximise the benefit of your setup, if you are not aware of it you will need to make yourself familiar with Progressive raker setting. Are you aware of this?

I did weigh up getting a 880 however was concerned with the weight because I do cut a fare bit of firewood.

The 880 would definitely be a bear for firewood work.

Hey Bob will the ms390 be ok for a mini mill to do the vertical cuts on the logs?

It depends what sizes you want to cut If you cut big slabs with the 660 the 390 can handle the secondary break up of these slabs using a minimill. If you are hoping to make long >12" wide cuts I'd be thinking again

 

[mtngun]

This is my 30 inch mill on my 32" bar. I measure a full 29 inches of "cut" with this mill but I haven't yet tried it on a log.

Flashhole, you can't clamp on the sprocket nose as shown in your picture.

 

[JasonMS660]

If you were going to use it for felling or bucking then I wouldn't recommend it but when you put a bar on a conventional CSM you will lose 6" of bar and even when milling a 36" wide log you don't make many cuts at the full 36".

Now to maximise the benefit of your setup, if you are not aware of it you will need to make yourself familiar with Progressive raker setting. Are you aware of this?


The 880 would definitely be a bear for firewood work.


It depends what sizes you want to cut If you cut big slabs with the 660 the 390 can handle the secondary break up of these slabs using a minimill. If you are hoping to make long >12" wide cuts I'd be thinking again

Hi Bob, defiantly only cutting and bucking with the 25" bar etc (660). I plan to just switch to the longer bar for the Milling only.
I'm not sure what you mean with progressive raker setting, I assume that here is info here??
I think I'll hold off on the mini mill and trim back the boards later. The 390 is 10 years old and cut a lt of would up here in the hills. (wood is my only source of heating.)
What do you think about veritable oil in the aux oil to save dollars ?
Thanks again and I'll check out some threads for progressive raker setting. Cheers

 

[BobL]

Hi Bob, defiantly only cutting and bucking with the 25" bar etc (660). I plan to just switch to the longer bar for the Milling only.
I'm not sure what you mean with progressive raker setting, I assume that here is info here??

What do you think about veritable oil in the aux oil to save dollars ?

I assume you mean veggie oil?

Yep no problem, I use canola but the last lot of B&C oil I got was only $2.50/L which is cheaper for me than canola ($2.85/L on special Coles)
Long term I find canola makes a real mess as it goes tacky and then hard forming a hard to remove skin over everything so make sure you clean your mill as soon as possible after use.
It also eats some rubber tubing.

Thanks again and I'll check out some threads for progressive raker setting. Cheers

Yep best thing you can do is check it out and then ask targeted questions.
See if you can track down the Carlton Chain Guide PDF which explains it in a limited way.
PM me for a copy of you can't find it.

 

[flashhole]

Flashhole, you can't clamp on the sprocket nose as shown in your picture.

I understand that. I bought a 36" bar today.

 

[Stihlman441]

I use a 660 and 36'' bar (wish i went bigger at times) i ended up drilling a 8mm hole in the centre of the sprocket bearing and took off the felling spikes to maxamize the bar width,can do a 31'' cut but as Bob said if you need to cut and ark ect ya get into trouble sometimes.
Some of the Ozzy hard woods are interesting cutting like Yellowbox they can be hard work and take time.

These are 10' x 5' x 8' long Stringybark posts.

Redgum

Yellobox

 

[JasonMS660]

I use a 660 and 36'' bar (wish i went bigger at times) i ended up drilling a 8mm hole in the centre of the sprocket bearing and took off the felling spikes to maxamize the bar width,can do a 31'' cut but as Bob said if you need to cut and ark ect ya get into trouble sometimes.
Some of the Ozzy hard woods are interesting cutting like Yellowbox they can be hard work and take time.

These are 10' x 5' x 8' long Stringybark posts.

Redgum

Yellobox

Thanks Stihlman for he post and pic, Looking likely I'll get the bigger mill just in case! It looks like you have the Granberg Aux oil there? how have you found it? I wish I had a mill a few months back, I had to buy some Yellow box for my boat $$$$$$.

Guys If feel stupid in asking this but, Grandberg only advertise a 36"mill and 48", so is the suggestion I get the 36" mill with the 42" bar or the 48" mill the 42"bar?
I just went off to do some shopping on line an know a little confused. Is the 48" mill going to be difficult to manage on the smaller logs?
I appriciate the advice, I have some good logs to start milling when I get my act together I'll be sure to post some picks.

 

[BobL]

Guys If feel stupid in asking this but, Grandberg only advertise a 36"mill and 48", so is the suggestion I get the 36" mill with the 42" bar or the 48" mill the 42"bar?
I just went off to do some shopping on line an know a little confused. Is the 48" mill going to be difficult to manage on the smaller logs?
I appriciate the advice, I have some good logs to start milling when I get my act together I'll be sure to post some picks.

Don't worry about asking ANY question - any mild embarrassment experienced now, pales into insignificance compare the to potential embarrassment due to a major stuff up arising later from not asking it.

I have two sets of mill rails, 54" and 64"
I use the 54" rails with my 42" and 44" bars use them for logs as small as 18-20" in diam.
The 64" rails are used with the 60" bars but sometimes I just leave them on the mill even when using the smaller bars and no this is not difficult to handle.

 

[Stihlman441]

I think the Aux oiler is a must,you dont have to get the Granberg one you can make up something the 660s even with the high output oilers struggle to deliver enough oil.
If you have a 36'' bar or are getting one for firewood you could use both length bars on the mill,the only difference is the rail length.You could buy longer rails here in Ozz for using a 42',44' bar the rails are a standard profile there nothing special.
Chain i use Carlton 3/8 .063 Skip semi chisel ripping chain (10 deg top plate angle) can be gotten from Matt (MCW) here on AS for a reasonable price.
You will find the modds are required to your mill when you get started,one that i have been meaning to do and will help greatly is rollers on the power head end,see some of Bobs fantastic work for ideas.
As Bob said ask all the stupid questions you can think of to prevent expensive stuff ups from the get go.

 

[flashhole]

How did you do the center cuts that run the length of the log? Any pics of the tool and set up?