Is it 3/8 or .325 or is it both.

[bkellyusa]

I am planning g to buy an Echo saw with a .325 chain so I thought I'd get some new files. All mine are designated for 3/8. However I see files for 3/8 size chains or .325 but I also see files that claim they are good for both sizes. Can someone please clear this up for me.

 

[Okie294life]

if it’s a round file 3/8 should have bigfer files than .325. If your talking about a grinder maybe different

 

[chipper1]

I'm guessing your files are 3/16, you can use that on most 325 chain no problem, some it may be a bit tight when new. When using a larger file you will have to get the file lower into the gullet in order to get the proper hook, when the chain is new this isn't a problem, towards the end of the chains life it may become harder depending on the chain type.

 

[Joab]

It mainly depends on you -- both how good you are at hand filing and how much you care about manufacturer's recommendations.

For .325 chain you'd normally use a 3/16 or 11/64 file (depends on manufacturer of chain). For 3/8 Low profile you'd use 5/32 or 11/64. You could do either with an 11/64 file. Similarly, I think you'd get away with using a 13/64 file for either .325 or full size 3/8 chain -- and I think Buckin Billy Rae on YouTube has some content that would suggest 3/16 works well for both.

On the flip side, the file size the chain manufacturer recommends for their chain is usually the one that is easiest to use --So I normally just use what they recommend.

Envoyé de mon moto g power en utilisant Tapatalk

 

[Joab]

It mainly depends on you -- both how good you are at hand filing and how much you care about manufacturer's recommendations.

For .325 chain you'd normally use a 3/16 or 11/64 file (depends on manufacturer of chain). For 3/8 Low profile you'd use 5/32 or 11/64. You could do either with an 11/64 file. Similarly, I think you'd get away with using a 13/64 file for either .325 or full size 3/8 chain -- and I think Buckin Billy Rae on YouTube has some content that would suggest 3/16 works well for both.

On the flip side, the file size the chain manufacturer recommends for their chain is usually the one that is easiest to use --So I normally just use what they recommend.

Envoyé de mon moto g power en utilisant Tapatalk

I should have also said, Oregon chain is normally 5/32 for 3/8LP, 3/16 for .325, and 7/32 for 3/8. I'm pretty sure Echo saws use Oregon chain.

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[Philbert]

Manufacturers spec certain size files for different chains, based on their testing and expected useage. If you choose to intentionally use a different size, that’s up to you. But if someone is telling you that the file (or file guide) size does not matter, they are trying to sell you something.

Files are a buck-and-a-half each, in quantity, and are a consumable item. Get the right ones for your saw.

Philbert

 

[Chainmale]

I think 3/8lp an .325nk recommend the same file size

 

[Okie294life]

It mainly depends on you -- both how good you are at hand filing and how much you care about manufacturer's recommendations.

For .325 chain you'd normally use a 3/16 or 11/64 file (depends on manufacturer of chain). For 3/8 Low profile you'd use 5/32 or 11/64. You could do either with an 11/64 file. Similarly, I think you'd get away with using a 13/64 file for either .325 or full size 3/8 chain -- and I think Buckin Billy Rae on YouTube has some content that would suggest 3/16 works well for both.

On the flip side, the file size the chain manufacturer recommends for their chain is usually the one that is easiest to use --So I normally just use what they recommend.

Envoyé de mon moto g power en utilisant Tapatalk

Looks like it’s got an Oregon 7t clutch cover and a power mate 3/8-7t rim sprocket

 

[Tomos770]

I think 3/8lp an .325nk recommend the same file size

4.0mm (3/8lp) vs 4.5mm (.325)

 

[chipper1]

if someone is telling you that the file (or file guide) size does not matter, they are trying to sell you something.

It doesn't matter, well at least to a point.

What matters is that you are able to achieve a sharp chain with the appropriate hook/side plate to get the job done. There are many ways to get to that goal, round filing or square are a couple, then looking at the new generation of cutters from the major brands we are seeing things we haven't before such as the stihl hexa file and the ultra aggressive new exl and husky x-cut chains that you cannot easily even mimic the angles on with a file.
I've heard you say before that knowing what you want the cutters to look like is important as that's what you should shoot for and I agree with that, there are many roads to making a cutter that will get the job done in any one individuals particular situation.
I think its important to keep the conversation going we can move forward, and meanwhile teach what has been proven to work, but not as if it's the only way.

Oh, what would you like to buy, I've always got something for sale.

 

[Chainmale]

4.0mm (3/8lp) vs 4.5mm (.325)

I mean that new .325 narrow kerf or low profile, whatever it's called

 

[Philbert]

there are many roads to making a cutter that will get the job done in any one individuals particular situation.

Absolutely. And if someone intentionally decides to make a cutter with more or less hook, more or less aggressive, one that cuts longer or shorter between sharpenings, etc. That is fine. My comments were directed toward some of these kits in ‘big box’ stores, on eBay, etc., which imply that they work on any chain, and can be confusing to guys new to sharpening.

teach what has been proven to work, but not as if it's the only way.

And this is exactly what I mean by using the manufacturers’ recommendations as starting points. Where people go from there is up to them.

Philbert

 

[bkellyusa]

Absolutely. And if someone intentionally decides to make a cutter with more or less hook, more or less aggressive, one that cuts longer or shorter between sharpenings, etc. That is fine. My comments were directed toward some of these kits in ‘big box’ stores, on eBay, etc., which imply that they work on any chain, and can be confusing to guys new to sharpening.



And this is exactly what I mean by using the manufacturers’ recommendations as starting points. Where people go from there is up to them.

Philbert

Thanks to everyone who commented. You help is much appreciated.