Is it possible to effectively water large trees?

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kkirt1

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Several people I have talked with say that it is fruitless to water large, mature trees. I have several large Walnut and Locust trees that have been stressed due to construction in the area last summer. We have seen very dry conditions in the Midwest this summer and I want to do all I can to save these beautiful trees.

Any advice?
 
I pulled this out of a piece I wrote for the UK a few years ago, where I was trying to fight the stupidity of cutting down trees because it was claimed trees were shrinking soils under buildings.

The trees and the buildings were the victims of the long term drought they had.

I was credited with saving about 40,000 trees with this system and the deep watering that is done here, lasted longer than I thought it would with the new invention. In fact, the first tree lecture I ever gave was about why it happened.

I found wet, moist soil right next to dry, dessicated soil beneath the edge of the plastic dam. I pursued this remarkable boundry with backhoes down to the depth of 6 feet.

The original is at http://users.rcn.com/bobw.enteract/article1.html Here an excerpt:

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In response to the crisis of a similar drought in Chicago a few years back, I wrestled with the seemingly overwhelming problem of providing water to hundred of thousands of public trees in our parks and parkways. The indictment of trees in the UK that they extract large quantities of water was exactly my dilemma here in trying to sustain trees at what seemed to me to be the levels of their own practical needs. When I read that trees could transpire hundreds of gallons a day, I was disturbed by the advice of many to just sprinkle a bit or set 5 gallon buckets with holes in the bottom alongside trees needing intervention. Those interventions may have made us feel we were doing something, but unless the trees were actually benefiting, our best efforts might be sincere, but if looked at honestly, were really hollow and self-serving.

To me, traditional irrigation techniques were clearly inadequate under these crisis conditions; they were wasteful in evaporative losses or sent water to gutters and drains by runoff on the slightest grade. One of my primary design goals was not to have to visit a tree twice; there were so many trees in stress that any second visit to an irrigated tree was to deny another tree its first visit.

Just as in the UK, we had watering bans for lawns and car washing in the Chicago area and its suburbs, So, an unavoidable task was to convince the governmental agencies involved that our irrigation of trees deserved an exemption from their restrictions. It wasn't enough to argue that trees were valuable assets that would take years to replace in size and grandeur. There was the additional burden of our present irrigation methods being so wasteful or unwieldy that they easily undermined any request for emergency recognition.

Since I had decided to pursue the common sense quantity of drought irrigation for a tree, it seemed that I should provide the shortfall in rain up until that point in time. If we were short 6 inches of rain, putting 6 inches of water into the root zone was my goal. That unprecedented amount would appear inherently wasteful by traditional thinking, so I had to prove my system to be precise and frugal in keeping the water only at the chosen tree. The system had to adequately irrigate a tree in its root area without the waste of evaporation or runoff--and it had to earn the support of the public to justify exemptions from the bans.

The system is a water-filled polyethylene tube, inexpensively available as a stock item, about 14 inches in diameter and 6 mils thick. The empty tube encircles the tree--my rule of thumb was the dripline--and is filled with water sealed by a knot in each end. The weight of the water forms a dam and the ends are overlapped so that water can be poured into the middle somewhat like a child's swimming pool with the bottom cut out. This allows percolation into the soil while the tubing dam holds that water in place. The seal of the tube at the bottom is remarkably leak-resistant as the water softening the ground beneath also allows the bag to press down more flexibly and better seal the area. (The name, tree sausage, was given by the staff and taken up by the public. In an attempt to make it all much more scholarly, I called it the Hydro Kielbasa Polyethelus, but the system stubbornly remained the tree sausage.)
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<IMG SRC="http://www.enteract.com/~bobw/firststatic.gif">
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Please note there are no weep holes or perforations in the tubing because that concept takes me back to a silly bucket with holes in the bottom placed next to a tree which is simply too slow and timid for this crisis. When the water inside the tubing dam finally percolates into the soil, the end-knots are opened and the remaining water in the tube is drained into the same area. The tubing is rolled up, tucked under the arm and taken to the next tree. We did that on an assembly line basis and this was the first level of my irrigation concept.

The system did everything asked of it; it was precise, frugal, escaped workman's compensation headaches because we lifted only the empty tubes without the weight of the water, and it was imminently reusable. However, I still wasn't satisfied.

Every tree we weren't able to visit because of time constraints could be a tree lost or put in decline, so I put the tubing directly on a fire hydrant, walked it in a circle around a grove of trees, brought the open end back against the first length of the tube like closing the circle in a question mark, and turned on the hydrant. The water flowing in the tube weighed the same as the stationary water in the first method so it acted as a dam, but it also supplied the water for filling without any additional work. Because the inside of the tubing is so slick, the water pressure of the hydrant is reduced along the length of the run and comfortably handled by the tubing's thickness. This second dynamic system was easily set up and positioned by one person and moves water for flooding at a few hundred gallons a minute.
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<IMG SRC="http://www.enteract.com/~bobw/firstfamilyenc.gif">
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With this rate of flow, areas were filled very quickly and since the ground often absorbed the water more slowly than the water input, the dammed area was easily filled to my target depth of 5 or 6 inches. When that was reached, the hydrant was shut off, the tubing maintained its shape and the water percolated into the earth at whatever rate it chose--usually not more than 15 minutes. The tubing was then detached from the hydrant and rolled up toward the ponded area allowing any remaining water to flow ahead and out the still open end that fed the site.


Continued in the next post---
 
<b>Caveats and Solitary Mutterings</b>


I must caution everyone that besides being so obviously counter-intuitive (no one believed I could connect such a flimsy tube to a hydrant), these systems really do require some different thinking in their placement and use. To simply try to follow these photos without additional instructions or understanding of the techniques is to invite remarkable frustration and disaster. Very early on, the systems proved that they would teach me, and I learned many eccentricities of the operations under rather humbling circumstances. Covered with mud, I've rolled down hills--with the sausages in heavy pursuit like a string of hot dogs. I did this one night in the full view of a thousand high-rise windows in downtown Chicago and someone with a camera could have blackmailed me forever. I'll produce a little book on it all, but the systems, in spite of their pugnacity, are simple, inexpensive and practical--my favorite kinds of inventions.

Please also remember that if I set my own design goals, I have an internal obligation to meet them--that's part of the craft and responsibility of being innovative. If I wasn't bright in some consideration, I had to rethink or abandon that inadequate element or concept in order to get back to my supposed "efficient and practical finished design". That passion however is not packaged with my design; it stays with me like velcro--and you'll have to develop your own.

Because the sausages are so counter-intuitive, along with anything new being automatically subject to nay-saying and negativism, some users could not get past their initial awkwardness, skepticism, and subsequent frustrations. I can't control how people read these explanations, the best I can do is to write as clearly and carefully as possible. And I've learned I am even more impotent in getting people to believe in something they don't want to believe in at that moment.

During our crisis, I came across an abandoned sausage wrapped around a tree in a park. I have the photos somewhere, and those pictures are truly worth a thousand words, but this tree was about 2 feet in diameter and the surrounding deflated sausage was about 3 feet in diameter. It was so tightly wrapped around the trunk that the tubing sat perched on the buttress roots and was held about 4 inches from the ground in some spots.

I know the man who placed it there will explain to his dying day about how stupid this idea was and how stupid I must be! He's absolutely right. What I found in that park was profoundly stupid given my goal of saving trees. What's wrong is this was never my intention or solution. How did he install it so badly? Why wasn't the circle from sidewalk to curb with the tree in the middle? Beats me. I'm just a designer, not a behavioral psychologist.




<b>The Author Has Returned to the Building...</b>

Getting back to the story, the public accepted the concepts instantly with the agencies taking a bit longer, but in a very short time we were using the sausages throughout the our area. It was exempted from the watering bans and despite the apparent fragility of the system, there was no vandalism, almost as if everyone understood the tasks and then agreed to leave the tubes alone in their work.

The public was delighted. There were elements of whimsy like the two little girls writing in the surface condensate from the cold water flow beneath and there was a continuing sense of performance art like Christo's umbrellas and fences. Water bubbles would glide silently along, rising at the little hills, and slowly disappearing in the valleys beyond.

<IMG SRC="http://www.enteract.com/~bobw/girlsatsaus.gif">


The last photo in this section is the recharging of one of my drought-proof parks during a droughty time a few years ago. The park was designed to have no maintenance or irrigation for its trees and landscapes and I have had to intervene only two times in 8 years by running a sausage from a hydrant over to one of the park catch basins in order to recharge the underground storage. The photo shows the hydrant open full with the left tube discharging onto a basin cover and the right tube running off to irrigate some shrubbery and flowers while I passed the time during recharging.

Near the center of the photo is a park neighbor with her son who were enjoying the show and wanted their picture taken. Next to them is a clock I used to keep track of time spent in the intervention. I stayed there about an hour and a half that afternoon and didn't return for two years when prudence and a number of rainless weeks suggested that I revisit my green friends. Since the park had reached its storage equilibriums, the inspection ports showed everything was wet and happy--and I wandered away with the vague feeling of a father just told by his kids that he's not needed anymore.

<IMG SRC="http://www.enteract.com/~bobw/parkcopy480irrig.GIF">



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<IMG SRC="http://www.enteract.com/~bobw/fillatbuilding.gif">




What Does This Have To Do With Subsidence?

We had a drought crisis there in Chicago that I attempted to answer with rehydration by flooding trees to a depth of 5 or 6 inches. We drowned no trees that we could determine, and the control trees left uncorrected either disappeared or were removed over the next five years, which was in keeping with anecdotal expectations that trees stressed by drought will decline and succumb to other adversities. The dehydration that our trees faced was a short term one with the drought breaking in a few months, but the effects of that catastrophe were significant and unarguable.

This relatively short event did not seriously alter the general rhythm of the lower level of the soils in my opinion. I did pursue the footprint of the flooded circles at the line of the tubing dam down to depths of 3 to 6 feet and found a remarkably straight vertical line of demarcation between moist and desiccated soils. Our landscapes were dotted with trees still standing in the middle of green circles surrounded by dead grass weeks after we made our single watering at those trees. It was my assumption that the "unnatural" state of standing water with a head pressure of 5 or 6 inches was a new dynamic that "accelerated" and then "defined" the straight downward movement of the ponded water--that water did not spread out as usual since it was confined by the dam above as compared to amorphously spread by sprinklers or rain.

In the UK, your droughts are protracted and memorialized by a 20% reduction in average rainfall. The rhythm of the soils is clearly affected and the replenishment of the upper horizons has been denied in the long term by your new climatic changes. The lower clay soils, no longer wetted from above and slow moving in moisture relocation, have begun to redistribute their remaining water in an upward fashion to counter that new gradient and to attempt to settle in a new mechanical equilibrium.

Illustrated again by the second drawing, shrinkage simply is the change of moisture from the fatter clay sandwich to the thinner one. In their aggregate and proportion, the soils no longer provide the "established" supportive structural capacity and the constructions resting above are left to their own devices. This generic clay collapse has, and will continue to expose now inadequate building practices that were once traditional and appropriate for usual conditions. We simply did not include any foresight for our new climates. As I stated before, there are many contributors to structural damage via shrinkage, but the droughts with their corresponding diminishing dynamics of your soils are the base cause.


Continues in the next post.....
 
<b>A Modest Proposal</b>

I choose not to get into the debate of the role of trees in this costly issue of subsidence right here. I do not have the papers and studies available to me to comment responsibly with the quality and care I prefer, so I will provide my thoughts in additional writings. In fact, let me sidestep that issue and simply ask why the rehydration techniques I employed here are not exactly appropriate for the problems faced in the UK?

If I strip the debated circumstances of the elements of trees versus buildings, and concentrate on the rehydration and re-establishment of soil moisture rhythms, that success will benefit any and all of the victims. The first day I place a significant amount of water in the upper horizon of an area with minimal loss through runoff or evaporation, I change the cycle in the direction of earlier times. My repetition of the rehydration in the same areas will be translocated to the shrunken clays as our counter to the upward loss of soil moistures. Certainly, the soils will take their own time as directed by their own textures and interfaces--and yes, what I am doing is watering, pure and simple, but I would like to ask for an objective comparison with any other techniques to hold, control, and or adjust percolation for the purpose of correcting and mitigating building subsidence.

During my drought, it was my intention to save trees. In your droughts, there seems to be an accepted demand to eliminate trees to save structures. I submit the same techniques will save both. Dehydration is met with rehydration. If Nature must alter her climates, we now have simple, frugal, and accurate methods to set water in place in large or small areas wherever we may want it.

I am committed to being a steward and keeping trees alive, healthy, and strong for as long as safely possible. I am saddened by the unnecessary loss of trees for any reason. It is my quiet observation that we may be pursuing an illusion in this growing "art and science" of the extractive threat of trees. Seems to me, in the years spent in "engineeringly" prosecuting, stalking and felling trees, you've wasted the opportunities to irrigate. I respectfully present a solution that saves both landscapes and structures is correct and defensible, is inexpensive and hopefully ubiquitous, and finally is easily learned in the details of its fine-tuning.

Time, right now, does not allow the expanded discussion and presentations of what I would like to share. I do hope this is a useful beginning dialog in some common thoughts about saving trees and also meeting the problems of subsidence.




Bob Wulkowicz


© Wulkowicz, 2000

To view the complete US Patent, go to
http://www.delphion.com/details?pn=US05148628__

The Tree Sausage





Bob Wulkowicz
704 S. East Avenue
Oak Park, IL 606304
773-539-0003 or 708-386-6911
 
So then, Bob, is this "portable dam" a product that can be purchased by the average homeowner? If so, will you please make that location known to this tree hugger? As well... I was wondering how much of a grade this concept would work fairly well with?
Thanks!
mb
 
Syncom 2 -

Interesting point.

Most homeowners in Portland, here, are rely on the home faucets of maybe 5 to 20 gallons per minute.

Usually they go for a low volume sprinkler, or a soaker hose, and irrigate at night when temperature is low and wind died down.

Our clay soils hold a lot of water in the valley areas, and even on some hills, so its usually a while until some drought related irrigation is needed.

Often, the trees here have roots beyond a few feet deep.

I remember in college, the native plants teacher, a Consulting Arborist, taught a lesson about trees known to have shallow roots in Oregon. He mentioned an area of low natural irrigation where shallow-root trees had roots going down about 100 feet, through the cielings of caves into the humid air of the natural cavity.

His point was to encourage us to learn the art of step-by-step reduction of irrigation. Learning how to train plants to go longer each year without irrigation to promote deeper rooting, while at the same time not over-doing it.

Starting with routine irrigation of newly planted trees, with a goal of very few irrigations on large trees.
 
Since yesterday, I realized that for much of our local Portland, Oregon area, low volume sprinkling or drip emittion is probably the most reliable method for large trees.

Soaker hose would work here too. And short repeat cycles on average sprinkler systems.

Our area has a fair size mole population. Even construction does not eliminate all the tunneling holes.

In this area, flood irrigation around a tree can be lost to one or 2 mole tunnels, diverting water to another property, which in turn would recieve minor wash-out of soil or mulch.
 
Some areas of Milwakee are like that with rat tunnels. I'm sure Chicogo has the same, if not more.

For the regular home-owner who cannot get hydrant access, there is a budget option to Bob's Perc Irrigation ( I think of it as a giant perc test).

Get a kiddie pool and knock a bunch of holes in the bottom ao that the water will leak out slowly.

Oh and place it under the tree before you fill it;)

Not as elegant as Bob's brainchild, but economical drip irrigation that can get past some areas watering bans.
 
Originally posted by syncom2
So then, Bob, is this "portable dam" a product that can be purchased by the average homeowner? If so, will you please make that location known to this tree hugger? As well... I was wondering how much of a grade this concept would work fairly well with?
Thanks!
mb

<hr>

Considering the two ideas; the first, is a static use where water stays sealed in the tube and its weight forms a dam, while water contained inside the dam then percolates into the ground can easily be used by a home owner.

I have never pursued the commercial profit-making route--perhaps Sherill might be interested.

Think of it as a golfer planning a long putt. He thinks about the slope and plans the putt accordingly. With the sausage on a slope, the water stays level--as it always does--and often times I don't bother to close the circle--it's simply not necessary. I have watered on 15 degree slopes, which is pretty steep indeed.



In the second embodiment, which I created to mass-produce the irrigation effects, the tube is open at both ends; one end connected to a hydrant, and the other left open to spill onto the ground inside the dam that's formed in whatever shape we select. The weight of the water inside the tube is the same if it's moving or standing still, so the function of the dam stays the same in both uses.

It's easy for me to make a homeowner's kit that keeps all the same principles:

!. The tree should get the amount it actually needs, not some silly amount that's suggested, for example, in the use of 5 gallon bucket with holes in the bottom.

2. The system should be super-cheap, portable, and storable.

3. Store the needed water right beneath the tree in a wetted cylinder or whatever shape the dam is configured in for the site.

4. The soils themselves determine the storage capacities with no calculations, soil tests, etc. My rule of thumb was, "fill the dam to the level of the short-fall of rain to date."


It all worked fine.


Bob Wulkowicz
 
Originally posted by M.D. Vaden
Syncom 2 -

Interesting point.

Most homeowners in Portland, here, are rely on the home faucets of maybe 5 to 20 gallons per minute.

Usually they go for a low volume sprinkler, or a soaker hose, and irrigate at night when temperature is low and wind died down.



A more interesting point is that slow or low volumes of water can't generally meet the actual, practical needs of trees. How do we deal with that?

Mostly today, we instead make up some rationalizations or explanations that sound good, but rarely fit the laws of physics and biology governing the world where trees live. That was the general advice I got in the beginning of my drought adventures, " It doesn't have to work, as long as it looks like you're doing something."

I defined the areas wanted for irrigation, choosing for simplicity, the drip-line circle of a tree in the first uses. I couldn't irrigate at night--staff came in at 7:00 and left at 3:30 during the day. I couldn't stretch soaker hoses for the distances of trees in urban parks and parkways. And even if I could, the distance losses for pressure take me back to pitiful, relatively tiny and useless flows.



Our clay soils hold a lot of water in the valley areas, and even on some hills, so its usually a while until some drought related irrigation is needed.


Sorry, soil science works against that theory. Clayey soil does capture water more effectively than sandy soils that let water move down and out past the tree roots. Clay also holds its water rather tightly but is very reluctant at a certain level to give it up to surrounding roots. Clay is, however, slow to charge with water, and that's one of the significant problems.

Any water falling on a clayey soil will first begin to slowly saturate the top millimeters of the soil--and if the rate of supplied rain or watering exceeds the rate of absorption, the excess water moves away as runoff to somewhere other than the subject tree. <u>That's specifically what I was try to control or fight.</u>

During the drought, water was precious, and my techniques were exempted from the usual watering bans because the methods were so clearly careful and frugal. I had almost no runoff, and water stayed where we meant it to be.



Often, the trees here have roots beyond a few feet deep.

Here's a typical photo example of tree masses and depths:

<IMG SRC="http://www.chez.com/mdrexhage/extrac~1.jpg">



I remember in college, the native plants teacher, a Consulting Arborist, taught a lesson about trees known to have shallow roots in Oregon. He mentioned an area of low natural irrigation where shallow-root trees had roots going down about 100 feet, through the cielings of caves into the humid air of the natural cavity.


We can't tell the subsurface structures beneath a tree like a perched water table and the like without destroying the area. There is so much of that as unchallenged conjecture, that it really tires me out:

There was a recent article in a Chicago newspaper about a bur oak that came down in a Chicago park. The arborist interviewed said he calculated the age of the tree from a table as 278 years old--and a root depth of 183 feet!

What should I say? An authoratative voice; a newspaper article; who's not to believe?

I do, however, take those numbers with a 5 lb. grain of salt. Please show me something more than anecdotes and outdated legends.



His point was to encourage us to learn the art of step-by-step reduction of irrigation. Learning how to train plants to go longer each year without irrigation to promote deeper rooting, while at the same time not over-doing it.

What's the clue for overdoing it? The death of the tree?

Starting with routine irrigation of newly planted trees, with a goal of very few irrigations on large trees.


That's a bit too cavalier for my tastes. Presumptious is also a word that comes to mind. Maybe I could make my kid a marathon runner by withholding water progressively while he was growing up? Then he wouldn't need much water during a race and would grow some compensatory mechanism to extract water from the humid ambient air as he jogged along....

I'm sorry. I'm not persuaded by the long root theory. Trees species growing in hostile or inhospitable areas generally die--that's how we get tree lines and tree zones


Bob Wulkowicz
 
Originally posted by M.D. Vaden
Since yesterday, I realized that for much of our local Portland, Oregon area, low volume sprinkling or drip emittion is probably the most reliable method for large trees.

Beta video tapes always had superior qualities over VHS, but the marketing wars gave the eventual ownership of the public market to VHS. Soaker hoses and drip irrigation are new conrtenders for public use and awareness, but they are not the answers for large trees and areas.


Soaker hose would work here too. And short repeat cycles on average sprinkler systems.



What's the output? If my tree transpires 200 gallons of water a day, what good is done with 50 gallons, once a week? I'm not trying to get a tree water enough to move its typical daily uptake, I was just trying to find the methods to get away from the silly advice that was, and still is, routinely given with minimal useless quantities.

Isn't 50 gallons better than nothing? Maybe not. Maybe, the tree needs what it needs. Not some rationalization of what we might deign to supply.



Our area has a fair size mole population. Even construction does not eliminate all the tunneling holes.

In this area, flood irrigation around a tree can be lost to one or 2 mole tunnels, diverting water to another property, which in turn would recieve minor wash-out of soil or mulch.

Sorry, not a good fatal flaw. Mole holes will simply fill to the level they do, and mole holes are connected to the surface, so they might overflow, but put a sock in that, as they say. Perhaps, that's a good marketing tool; tree irrigator and mole eliminator...

Is that your answer to a drought; I won't use a new radical, successful technique because there might be moles somewhere?

The single most important issue is how much water do trees need to get them past a drought? My park district was littered with control trees that didn't make it

Trees need water, and big trees need more water than little trees. We can't order big and mature trees from a nursery catalog , so let's look honestly at what's necessary to keep them alive.

Of course, we can keep our heads in holes as trees sucumb to the new adversities around us. Let's just not call that stewardship. There are other names for those treasured bits of human behavior. Bush is still waiting for a study to convince him there's global warming...


Bob Wulkowicz
 
Bob,

Our clay soil takes water in at about 1/100 of an inch per hour and then faster than that.

In reality, it doesn't matter if its a flood system or a low volume sprinkler at 1/10 of an inch per hour - the soil can't take it faster than the sprinkler.

In our soils here, and many elsewhere, low volume sprinklers emit as fast as the soil can take water in.

A 10,000 word reply does not alter that practical solution for this area at least.

Hoses and sprinklers are also lightweight, cheap, portable, easy to store and easy to locate and buy.
 
Almost forgot !

Hoses and sprinklers may be credited, in the United States, for having possibly saved up to 1,000,000 or more trees.
 
Originally posted by M.D. Vaden
Almost forgot !

Hoses and sprinklers may be credited, in the United States, for having possibly saved up to 1,000,000 or more trees.

Got me beat by a mile. The system and method was only credited with saving 40,000.


Bob Wulkowicz
 
Well, 1, 040,000 is better than 1,000,000 or 40,000.

Look forward to seeing the sausage in action sometime.

If the homeowners don't want one, the municipal departments and other hort squads out here like to add to their arsenal.

I have not yet tried one of these new "gator" bags yet either.
 
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