Is There a Mathematical Formula for Stove Pipe Length?
- Thread starter Gypo Logger
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Trx250r180
Saw polisher
Are those all trees off your property ,to make the cabin ?
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Yes Brian, most of them did, but I cut a lot of good logs into firewood so I got the balance of the logs from two adjacent properties. Most of them were ground skidded with an ATV and some with a log skidder. They were all hoisted up by hand with a 1 ton chain hoist.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
Looks like a lot of time peeling all those ,how did you flatten them top and bottom ? sawmill ? I would like to make a small cabin sometime from logs if i every get too slow down a bit from the job ,when hiking in the national park i saw thousands of doug firs about 10-12 inch round went up 150 feet or so with minimal taper ,too bad can not cut them down ,perfect log home logs ,here is 2 abandoned cabins made from some ,the park keeps it up some ,you van see the axe marks where they joined the logs together 
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Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Nice cabin in your pics. All the logs in my cabin were scribe fit including the horizontal lateral groove. All peeling and final work to the scribe lines were done with a planer blade made in Australia.
This kind of construction is too laborious. Short log construction is my preference for my next project.
This kind of construction is too laborious. Short log construction is my preference for my next project.
zogger
Tree Freak
If I was to do one, I think I'd do cordwood masonry, full 4 ft thick walls. I like the house is a bunker idea (live in tornado country you'd see the point), plus, that thick, that's a serious dent on the insulation so far.
lknchoppers
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My advice would be first, when the stove is out look down your pipe and make sure the path is clear. With a pipe that short it is easy to inspect. You can even lower a flashlight down on a rope to see all the way down. If this is a non-epa stove, leave the damper in the stack wide open, don't mess with it. Build your fire and get it going good and adjust the fresh air dampers on the front of the stove down to slow the burn down, don't burn wide open that is dangerous and your stove pipe will glow red. Check and make sure you are not getting too much creosote build up periodically. Pack that firebox completely, put the biggest hard wood on top, you need heat and long lasting burns, don't worry about how much smoke comes out of your stack. You should be able to burn all night without a problem. Put a screen cap on that pipe too. Rain going in will just rot and rust everything. Keep that chimney dry and clean. Good luck. PS-I wouldn't add anything to the stack until I tried what I have suggested. Be sure you have a battery operated smoke detector to wake you up if anything goes wrong.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
I don't know that stove, but it appears to be a welded, sealed stove - is it one with secondary combustion tubes? Some of those do not allow the air entrance into the firebox to be shut down completely - the air entrance to the secondary burn tubes are is always open. Others allow all the air intake to be shut almost off.
If you can shut down the air that enters the firebox you can control the burn rate that way - if you shut down the path that leaves the firebox then smoke will come out in your room. You need to have the firebox on the low pressure side of the restriction. Maybe worth looking it over to see how the air intake system works.
If you can shut down the air that enters the firebox you can control the burn rate that way - if you shut down the path that leaves the firebox then smoke will come out in your room. You need to have the firebox on the low pressure side of the restriction. Maybe worth looking it over to see how the air intake system works.
Ah John, did you set the insulated chimney over the flue pipe?
If so start over at the stove with black flue pipe, not what looks like galvanized in the picture and throw the damper away.
Proper chimney ceiling support and insulated chimney from there up.
Freakingstang
Doctor Freakinstein
how ya been buddy?
Stupid question for ya, but how do you load the splits, east to west or north to south?
I have a newer lopi secondary burn whoseyourdaddy stove and if I use long sideways (east to west) splits, I only get 6-7 hour burn times, but by packing it tight with 12-15" long splits front to back (or north and south) I'll get damn good burn times out of it. It also took me the better part of using it for a year to figure it out. It's not like a conventional stove at all.
Stupid question for ya, but how do you load the splits, east to west or north to south?
I have a newer lopi secondary burn whoseyourdaddy stove and if I use long sideways (east to west) splits, I only get 6-7 hour burn times, but by packing it tight with 12-15" long splits front to back (or north and south) I'll get damn good burn times out of it. It also took me the better part of using it for a year to figure it out. It's not like a conventional stove at all.
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Hi Steve, been awhile since I saw you. Ohio?
I think I'm married to my stove!
John
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
K, I'll do that and see how it works. Thx
Btw, have met when I was in Ontario?
i came down to visit you at your place in Erin years ago, toured a bush you were logging.
Gypo Logger
Timber Baron
Yes, I do recall now, but I don't remember which wood lot. I sure do miss cutting that hardwood.
How ya been?
John, wish I lived closer,I would weld you up a stove you would only have to load up twice a day, totally air tight and packed with 200 lbs of small river rounded stones it will hold heat 6-8 hrs after burn out. Burn bed on 6" of sand and will hold a full armload of wood 24" long per loading, air in through the adjustable front mounted inlet no damper in the 6" pipe. My pipe is only 9' to the rain cap.
Good thanks, its 10* and raining here on Christmas Eve, which just isn't right.
Have a Merry Christmas
