Is this Super 250 too far gone

[leeha]

Brian, You have nothing to loose but time.
As long as it doesn't turn into a financial matter.
Sometimes for me the worse the saw the more
it becomes a good challenge.
As others have said, i would get it completely
apart and bead blast all corroded parts. Do a good
inspection and see what you have to work with.
The good thing about this style saw, Parts are
not that hard to find, Used or possibly new.

Good luck with it.

Lee

 

[Brian13]

That may well be the end result, we will see. I was just browsing through the Mcculloch thread and I am starting to think that I will end up getting one of those old saws weather this one ever runs again or not. Don't know why but something about those big old Mccullochs is making me want a running one to have for myself. Guess its kinda like hot rods.

 

[Brian13]

Would anybody be able to tell me what is the best way to remove this piece? It looks like on the clutch side there is four threaded holes for a tool like for splitting a regular case. If so does anybody have a pic of the tool so I know what to make?

Had an idea to clean the corrosion, tried baking soda and vinegar. Worked ok didn't spend alot of time on it only down side I can see so far is the corner and crevices are difficult to get to but it already looks better.Have not really found any pitting yet witch is a plus. A friend of mine suggested crushed walnut shells for the sand blaster. Said it takes off corrosion and rust without harming the metal, so I am going to look into that.

Inside the cylinder is dirty from what I can see but has a fair amount of oil residue, no rust from what I can see, crank is pretty clean as well. Points looked real good, I think a new condenser, coil is all it needs there. All in all it is looking a little better than at first. As long as I can get the parts I will need I think it will be a runner again.

 

[nmurph]

brian,
you are to be commended for your efforts. many said toss the saw. i would have agreed with them. i am glad you are beginning to make some progress. i understand the reason for you doing what you are doing. that is a laudable reason.
here is a link to a soda blaster that might help you with your cleanup.

http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/

i can't take credit for this info. i have seen it given on here several times.

Good luck and send lots of pics.

 

[blsnelling]

You can do just about anything you want to. You just have to want to bad enough. The fact that this was your dads saw is quite the motivator. With that said, I think bead blasting is the only way your going to get those parts cleaned up properly.

 

[stinkbait]

Would anybody be able to tell me what is the best way to remove this piece? It looks like on the clutch side there is four threaded holes for a tool like for splitting a regular case. If so does anybody have a pic of the tool so I know what to make?

Looks like you still have a bolt holding it together, to the left of the condensor, in the pic.

 

[Brian13]

brian,
you are to be commended for your efforts. many said toss the saw. i would have agreed with them. i am glad you are beginning to make some progress. i understand the reason for you doing what you are doing. that is a laudable reason.
here is a link to a soda blaster that might help you with your cleanup.

http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/

i can't take credit for this info. i have seen it given on here several times.

Good luck and send lots of pics.

Thanks for that imfo I am definitely going to try it, I still have to build something to contain the glass beads.

 

[Brian13]

You can do just about anything you want to. You just have to want to bad enough. The fact that this was your dads saw is quite the motivator. With that said, I think bead blasting is the only way your going to get those parts cleaned up properly.

I still have to build something to contain the glass beads so they don't end up in the grass never to be used again. I have a bucket of sand but I want to try to avoid using that. Anybody have any pictures of simple blasting cabinets or what to use so that you don't lose all your media?

Looks like you still have a bolt holding it together, to the left of the condensor, in the pic.

I really feel less than smart now, I thought that was just the casting but I just went and looked and sure enough there is another bolt. All I can say now is I feel dumb, thanks for the good eyes you probably saved me from really tearing something up.

 

[heimannm]

There are six (6) 10-24 HHCS holding the side cover on that saw, once all six are removed look very carefully and you will find two of the holes are tapped for a 1/4-20 screw, with long screws installed you can easily use most any puller to separate the case. I think I have some pictures of this in the McCulloch 640 thread I put together a while back.

Mark

 

[Brian13]

There are six (6) 10-24 HHCS holding the side cover on that saw, once all six are removed look very carefully and you will find two of the holes are tapped for a 1/4-20 screw, with long screws installed you can easily use most any puller to separate the case. I think I have some pictures of this in the McCulloch 640 thread I put together a while back.

Mark

I noticed that when I was looking at it earlier. The 1/4 in. bolts I have seem to be the wrong thread so as soon as I can get to the hardware store I will pick some up. Thanks a bunch, that is about the last piece to take apart.

 

[heimannm]

1/4-20 is standard coarse threads for 1/4" bolts, I would guess the threaded holes also have a lot of corrosion. Try chasing the threads with a tap if you have one (don't go too deep or you risk damaging the 10-24 threads in the block, or just use some oil on your screws and work them back and forth until you achieve about 1/4" engagement.

Mark

 

[Brian13]

I don't have a tap, but yes every thread is filled with crud, dust, and everything else. I will try the oil and work it slowly. Thanks again, as soon as I can get it apart I will put up some pics of the cylinder and piston.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

Brian

You can pick up a 1/4-20 tap at the hardware store when you get your bolts. See if you can get a bottoming tap which will clean the bottom threads. Also pick up some good penetrating oil.

Yes....that saw does look like a lot of work. Keep in mind that things didn't get stuck over night, so don't expect to get them moving over night.

Dan

 

[Brian13]

Just about got it completely apart. Only problem I have now is the clutch side bearing came with the crank and wont go past the connecting rod. Not sure how I am going to get around that. Once I figure that out some heavy cleaning can begin. What I was wondering is if there are enough parts on a regular 250 that are interchangeable that it would be worth getting one as a donor saw. There are some cheap on ebay right now. I am going to need some things like the ignition( flywheel, coil, condenser, wires, and switch) starter guts, carburetor, fuel lines, muffler, and every gasket on it and probably a piston, as well as a few other miscellaneous things. After I have cleaned everything up I will have a better idea exactly what needs to be replaced, I was just wondering if that would be a viable idea as to getting the alot of the parts I need.
Thanks,
Brian

 

[leeha]

The crank should come out with the bearing
if it's like the bigger saws. Just got to get the
rod in the right position. Don't push the rod down
all the way or up i should say to the top of the
cylinder and let the rod go to one side. It should
clear the crank.


Lee

 

[Brian13]

That was what I was thinking, I did not pay attention to where the counter weights were and now I think I am going to have to press the crank back in and turn it to the so I can move the connecting rod to the proper position. Thats the part I am worried about. I dont want to damage anything more than what time already has.

 

[knockbill]

I still have to build something to contain the glass beads so they don't end up in the grass never to be used again. I have a bucket of sand but I want to try to avoid using that. Anybody have any pictures of simple blasting cabinets or what to use so that you don't lose all your media?


i made a blasting cabinet out of an old dishwasher,,, cut a hole in the top for a piece of plexiglas, and another with a sleeve for your arm to hold teh nozzle,,put a bucket at teh bottom , after you remove the pump to hold teh media,,, works well, and its dust proof, (well waterproof, any way)...
have fun, and good luck.....

 

[heimannm]

As Lee has pointed out, the bearing will always come with the crank shaft and will move past the connecting rod if you get it in the correct position. It shouldn't require much in the way of pressing bearings back in, just carefully work the parts a bit and things should slide pretty freely.

When you get to the point of reassembling the saw, a good coat of grease on the connecting rod and cap will hold the 24 needle bearings in place as you put it back together.

That saw will have a cast iron/steel sleeve so you can give it a light hone if it needs a little cleaning up. Oversize pistons and rings are available but I've never looked for anyone that could bore the cylinder to the next oversize.

Mark

 

[Brian13]

As Lee has pointed out, the bearing will always come with the crank shaft and will move past the connecting rod if you get it in the correct position. It shouldn't require much in the way of pressing bearings back in, just carefully work the parts a bit and things should slide pretty freely.

When you get to the point of reassembling the saw, a good coat of grease on the connecting rod and cap will hold the 24 needle bearings in place as you put it back together.

That saw will have a cast iron/steel sleeve so you can give it a light hone if it needs a little cleaning up. Oversize pistons and rings are available but I've never looked for anyone that could bore the cylinder to the next oversize.

Mark

As soon as I get off work tomorrow morning I am going to work with it. The crank bearing are pretty much frozen so they will be getting tossed. Not completely sure how the inside of the cylinder will be but when I took off the connecting rod the piston moved freely. Depending on the inside I might be looking for the oversize. There are some machine shops in town here that might bore the cylinder out for me. And I was going to ask about the needle bearings, we use grease when doing loose ball bearing on bicycle wheels. Hopefully this weekend I will start with some soda blasting and see how that does. If that dosnt work well enough I will either build a blasting cabinet or see if I know anyone who does beed blasting. Should have some more pics in a few days.
Thank you everybody for the help and guidance so far.
Brian

 

[Brian13]

Finally have the whole saw apart, and all is not bad. Surprisingly the oilier still works. The impulse pump part(not sure of correct name) is clean on inside. The bearings after irrigating with some oil turn pretty smoothly. The inside of the cylinder is cleaner than I thought it would be. The piston is in great shape, the ring on top is stuck and there is another spot in question but it really looks good compared to the rest of the saw. This is what I am going to need for sure, does anybody see anything that will be a problem right off the bat.
Top handle/carb box and reed plate.
ignition coil
fly wheel
Im just gonna guess the condenser
carburetor
spring and pulley for starter
piston rings
muffler
bearing seals
all gaskets and fuel lines

Possible things to replace
the impulse pump
the cylinder base

I think the rest can be used. The carburetor may be able to be cleaned and rebuilt however I am not confident enough to take it that far apart and get it back together correctly. So I am thinking a Tilly conversion. I will put up some more pics in a day or so, my sister is getting married tonight so I wont have time this evening.
Thanks Brian