Jonsered 2150 / Husqvarna 350 rebuild

[eg1l]

Hi guys!

I just recently got a Jonsered CS 2150 Turbo from my dad, since he bough himself
a new Stihl. The reason for this, is that he was told at the local shop, that the
Jonsered was shot. I took a look at it, and the only thing I noticed was that
the piston was a bit scored, and has left a litte aluminum on the cylinder wall.
As I understand, the CS 2150 is basically the same saw as the Husqvarna 350,
which has a lot of aftermarket parts available.

I'm currently not looking to maxing out horsepower and such, just making it run
again, and I want to hear your opinion on what to do.

I have looked at the following kits for replacing P&C:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171211367821?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351295141391?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

The last one is dirt cheap, and there may be a reason for it.

The other option is to clean off the original cylinder, and buy one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-3...573039?hash=item27fbffd92f:g:TjoAAOSw34FVEbti

I need to replace the gaskets, and I have also read that replacing the plastic intake clamp on the carburetor would be a good idea.

 

[KYsawman]

Hello and welcome to AS. The 2150/350 is a great little saw. I see yours is an early model 44mm open port. I see the scoring is not to bad on the cylinder, you may be able to clean up the cylinder and remove the amuminum transfer from the piston off of the chrome bore of the cylinder. If you can get the cylinder to clean up then all you need is a new piston and ring. I have had varing luck with aftermarket kits. The real cheap ones are usually just ,really cheaply made. I perfer to keep my saws all oem if I can. The plastic clamp and boot is the first thing I change out on them. They are known for causing air leaks and scoring pistons. There are many good threads about rebuilding the 2150/350 here on the site and some great step by step vidios on youtube.I would try to clean up the oem cylinder first and see what happens. If it is good then piston/rings, if not aftermarket top end kit. Keep us posted on your progress and any questions you have.

 

[eg1l]

Quick update. I took KYsawman's advice and started cleaning and sanding the OEM cylinder. I might have been a bit rough with the sanding, but it feels real smooth. Maybe it is ok?

 

[rburg]

Look for a youtube video from MWEBA1 on rebuilding the 2150/350 for more info.

 

[KYsawman]

From the pictures the cylinder looks like it cleaned up real well. Looks like you can put a new piston/rings and carb boot and you will be back to cutting. be sure to get the 44mm piston as there is a break in production and the later model ones are 45mm. I do not know if jonsered changed the model number, but I know husqvarna stayed the 350 all along.

 

[eg1l]

I'm quite happy how the cylinder turned out, can't wait to test it. Is it smart to run a compression test with the new piston installed, before firing it up? Also, should I worry about the carbon residue around the spark plug hole?

I have just ordered the following parts;

• Meteor piston 44mm
• Carb boot and clamp
• Crankcase bearings and seals
• Fuel line and filter
• Exhaust gasket and block gasket
• Misc screws that had gone missing

I have used all Husqvarna part numbers, as my store uses the same ones for Jonsered.
I will keep you updated on the tear down and cleaning process.

 

[KYsawman]

The compression test at rebuild will give you a base line ,but the compression will raise after the rings seat in. Good call on doing the seals and bearings, that way you know everything is good and there is not any question. Remember to use sealer on the bearing cap to the lower crankcase and around the seals. I use yamabond, or dirko, don't use rtv gasket maker as it will degrade with fuel contact. the carbon is not a concern it will not affect anything. Running good oil will reduce carbon buildups. one more note make sure you time the piston wristpin clips so the gap strait up or down. If installed with the gap to the side the clip under high rpm. could compress and pop out.

 

[eg1l]

New update. Thanks to rburg's youtube tip, I'm now down to the point where I would start rebuilding as soon as the parts arrive.
I also got me some Loctite 515 to seal up around the lower crankcase.
Based on the pictures below, would there be reason to assume that there may have been a leak in between the block and crankcase?

 

[KYsawman]

Yes I looks like it has been leaking. A good cleaning and nice coat of sealer and it will be in great shape. The bolts that hold the block on should have locktite put on them, they like to loosen up. Thanks for the update cant wait to see the final product.

 

[Agrarian]

Also make sure all the crankcase bolts are the same length. I just did one where the last 3/8" of one bolt tip was broken off in the hole.

 

[Mattyo]

Here's my vid series on 350 rebuilds...bolt for bolt. sorry, its a 5 parter. best of luck w/ the rebuild.

 

[eg1l]

Mattyo, I've seen all 5 parts I used your method to remove the clutch and flywheel, easy!

 

[Mattyo]

glad I could be of help

 

[KYsawman]

All of his video's are top shelf. I have told several people about them and it has been a great help.

 

[Mattyo]

wow, thanks! .... workin on getting them to the top shelf not convinced i'm there yet, but thanks just the same!

 

[eg1l]

I noticed during the cleaning process that I have some play at the crankshaft rod.
Should I be worried, or is this ok to use?

 

[KYsawman]

Side to side play is normal, there should not be up and down play. It looks ok frome the video, no blueing on the rod. I would not beworried about it.

 

[dsell]

I don't think Loctite 515 is meant for your application. I highly recommend you go with Dirko.

 

[Mattyo]

What about loctite 515 makes it no good?

 

[dsell]

I'm not sure if it's labeled for gas. The attached pdf shows the chemical resistance to gasoline, but I'm not sure what it means. Typical applications include water pumps, thermostat housings, transmission pans, transmission case covers, transaxle casings, O-ring replacement.