Jonsered 2150 / Husqvarna 350 rebuild

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Rebuild complete! Thank you guys for all your help, much appreciated!
For the break in period, I added some extra oil to the first tank of fuel, and I can already feel the compression rising.
While in the process of rebuilding, I obtained a Stihl MS260 that did not run well, starts and idles, but dies when reeving up.
I inspected the carb, seems that the very tip of the high speed needle was rusted, so I cleaned that off, and now it
runs great! Also waiting on a Husqvarna 345, which I think I'll convert to a 346 :) (The obsession is now a fact..)
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It always amazes me how a nicely done saw rehab makes you feel.....like you really accomplished something.
 
Sorry for being OT, but I just had to share this with you. My latest projects, a Jonsered 2159 and 3x Husqvarna 346 XPG. I probably have to sit down and talk to someone..

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515 and 518 are both fuel resistant, though there are likely other products that would work as well. I happen to be using a tube of 518 right now. both 515 and 518 seem to be fine.


MattyO has reported that Loctite is a no go for sealing the bottom of the bearing cap to the shell, not meant for plastic, use dirco, yamabond or the like.

Loctite is ok for sealing the cylinder to the top of the bearing cap.
 
I don't think Loctite 515 is meant for your application. I highly recommend you go with Dirko.

Some of the plastic crankcases have too large of gaps for 1194. Just trying to give fair warning, I learned the hard way. Dirko seals the first time, every time. Whatever Husqvarna used at the factory leaks over time.
 

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