jonsered 535

[steele_109]

Hi I'm trying to find a flywheel side oil seal for a jonsered 535. I bought a set off fleebay from little red barn, clutch side worked but flywheel side was to small. I sent him a email with measurements.They answered fairly quick and said they had run into this once before.Now they won't answer the emails, So does anyone know a replacement or where a original one is at.I would greatly appreciate any and all help.

 

[Snojetter]

Gonna be pretty hard to source an original I've only seen a couple come up for sale over the years so you'll have to wait on one or just get lucky. I'm not aware of any modern replacements that match up. If someone does, that would be a great service to get that info out for all to see.

Maybe take a chance on an old carcass? 450, 525, 455 all share the same seals. I think even the 520SP is the same, maybe the 510...probably others of that era, but I'm most familiar with these models. In my experience, these seals are surprisingly tough. I've resurrected a number of these saws and the original seals have all held up - I've never had to replace them. That's no guarantee, of course. The donor saw may be in pieces precisely because the seal failed. BUT, the quickest way to get your hands on a seal is probably from a donor. NLA parts are a pain which is why I've got a pile of dead saws on the shelf.

 

[steele_109]

Thank you for replying and yes this seal was leaking. I have fixed several of these saws myself and this is the first I have saw that leaked. I wonder why there were two different crank cases jonsered wasn't bad about doing that,in my experience.The crankshaft is tiny.I have gone through the seals I have laying around and the outside diameter is easy (372) inside not so much. I'm going to remeasure and look some more if I find something I will let you know.

 

[Maine choppa]

Would it be possible to take the seal to a shop that deals specifically with bearings and seals and have them measure it and cross reference it by dimensions? Just a thought.

 

[steele_109]

Hi I think I might have one on the way.I'm not positive but I think maybe one for a 435 husqvarna might work and if it doesn't.I found a donor saw for cheap.But I might take it by a friend, who bought out the last bearing shop here in town. He runs a local automotive parts store.I tore the old seal up pretty bad getting it out,it was hard as a rock.But he can probably still get what he needs, I will let you know how it turns out.Thank you

 

[Snojetter]

Will be interesting to hear what you find out either about the Husky seal or your friend's shop.

You don't have to pull the seal to get it out. It's much easier to remove the cylinder bolts. Pull the cylinder and the top half of the crankcase and the seals are just sitting there ready to slide off the crank. No destroying the seal in the process.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Thank you for replying and yes this seal was leaking. I have fixed several of these saws myself and this is the first I have saw that leaked. I wonder why there were two different crank cases jonsered wasn't bad about doing that,in my experience.The crankshaft is tiny.I have gone through the seals I have laying around and the outside diameter is easy (372) inside not so much. I'm going to remeasure and look some more if I find something I will let you know.

If your crank dia measures 12mm then I think the seal you need is a 12x26x4mm seal. I thought it would have been the same as a 525 also but I looked at my 535 IPL and it shows a corrected number for the seal of 5032607-01. When I searched for that part number it came up listing the size I listed, simple easy to find metric seal.

 

[Snojetter]

Interesting. A search for the original seal 503260202 shows many suppliers carrying it, supposedly a genuine Husqvarna part (color me surprised). Searching 503260701 shows it is a discontinued p/n. Pictures of 503260202 show the dimensions embossed on the seal 12-26-4 just as you stated @Modifiedmark I wonder how the superseded p/n might differ from the original and if 503260202 might not work seeing as it shows as available and OEM for several newer saws than the 535. Worth a try?

 

[Modifiedmark]

Interesting. A search for the original seal 503260202 shows many suppliers carrying it, supposedly a genuine Husqvarna part (color me surprised). Searching 503260701 shows it is a discontinued p/n. Pictures of 503260202 show the dimensions embossed on the seal 12-26-4 just as you stated @Modifiedmark I wonder how the superseded p/n might differ from the original and if 503260202 might not work seeing as it shows as available and OEM for several newer saws than the 535. Worth a try?

Remember I said "I Think". I 'm not a expert on this series of Jonsereds. I have only had one, didn't care for the way it was designed and sent it down the road.

I was just saying the IPL I have for that shows the corrected number and what the size appears to be. Pull the seal and measure it is all I can tell you for sure. You have to pull it anyway..

 

[steele_109]

Hi I just found the seals or I think I did. A husqvarna 242 has the same part number 5032600202.Husqvarna 535 was a no go the id was correct but the od was off.So the hunt continues,I ordered a 535 carcass and I may order a 242 just to see

 

[Snojetter]

I wish Husqvarna didn't use the same model numbers on their saws that Jonny did. Sure makes searches more difficult and can be plenty confusing. Examples are the 450 and 455 as those are awfully popular Husky models and they always show up amidst a search of the Jonsered versions...and of course they are not even close to the same saw.

 

[steele_109]

Well I got the 535 carcass and took the seal out and measured it.The od 26.12 mm the id is approximately 12.00 mm.It actually measured from 12.00 to 12.06 anyway the rubber on the inside is hard but the lips are still soft.I will crank it tomorrow and see how it runs.My expectations are not high,the back side of this seal is as hard as the one I took out.

 

[steele_109]

Hi all the saw is finally fixed.But it took a lot more than the oil seal.I took the saw all way apart and was shocked to see that the bearing riser (or whatever the name had no gasket between it and the bottom of the crank case.Plus the gasket between the riser and the cylinder is plastic about 3/16 thick.There was no gaskets anywhere.The set up it uses is very similar to a husqvarna 350 but husky uses a goo gasket between the case and the riser and a paper gasket between the riser and the cylinder.So it had a air leak now it doesn't.1184 to the rescue bad part is if it ever needs tore down again I will have to use a hammer. But for now it runs and idles like it is suppose to and actually runs much better than I thought it would.

 

[Snojetter]

I don't think I've ever seen a gasket between the case and the riser. The 520/450/525 had a traditional thin gasket between the cylinder and riser; the 455/535 have that thick hard fiber or plastic "gasket" which makes swapping top ends impossible.

So do you think the original seal was fine or was it a combination of things?

 

[steele_109]

I think it was a combination of things but it was leaking in or around the seal erea.When I took the seal out it was hard as a rock.When I put the other used seal in it was still leaking and wouldn't run.So I tore it down and gooped it all up with 1184 it may even be bomb proof now lol.I had a 520 sp that wouldn't oil.I tore it down several times to try and fix the oiler.The last time I put it together I found a paper gasket to go between the crank case and the riser,it oiled for a little while and stopped.Or maybe it went between the riser and the cylinder just can't remember.

 

[Hulpio]

Hello,
just took apart old 535. It does not have gasket between crankcase halves. This one had never been opened before. There was signs of some kind of thin lacquer or something in the bearings and case surfaces. There was a hard approximately 1mm thick gasket between cylinder and upper half of crankcase. Just got a new piston ring, old one had 0.8mm end gap which indicates it is worn out. New one was 0.3mm which is ok I think.
Bearings are piece of cake, just normal metric ones with TN9 (nylon) cage. Oil seals are more tricky. Clutch side has 12x26x3.8 and flywheel side has 15x35x7 which I was able to locate. For the clutch side I had to take 12x26x5. It may not be a problem and if it is too wide I will try to grind it down to 4mm. Both are double lip, rubber in metal case so grinding may be possible.

Will post how it goes.

Found something:
https://www.skoterdelen.com/grasklippare/jonsered/motordelar/packningar/oljetatning-jonsered

 

[steele_109]

Wish I had found that when I was working on mine.Would have made life easier maybe.Good luck with yours mine runs fine now.

 

[Hulpio]

This morning my local chainsaw repair workshop had 535 ”Classic” in good condition. Overhauled he said. Price tag was 175€, gives me motivation getting mine running like new.

 

[steele_109]

This is the second one I have owned.They are a very dependable saw.I have several old jonsereds they all seem to be very good saws.

 

[Hulpio]

Oil seals and crank bearings arrived today so it was time loose virginity in this chainsaw bearing business. Crank had a rough night in wifeys freezer - 20C. Some tension with a cheapo 2 leg bearing puller and then some very hot water to the bearing. Took maybe 10sec of water treatment and plop. Bearing got loose. It was the same on flywheel side.
Then I took crank back to freezer and heated kitchen owen to 250F and baked those bearings 15min. Temperature difference seemed to be adequate since I could pretty much drop in those new bearings. It is good not to know how things should be done, then you can try your own way.
Oil seals which I got are just general purpose grade. Just wondering if I should spend 50$ and order originals from Sweden. Half of that cost is freight which makes no sense. Sweden is our neighboring country. We are the lucky ones between swedes and those russian morons.