Jonsered 630 parts cross up

[pioneerguy600]

Many thanks, from a fellow Nova Scotian!

Hello fellow Bluenoser, I always defer Jonsered questions to our site expert ,Cantdog as he has the years of experience with those saws.I have barely dabbled with the Jonsered line of saws so we should just wait for him to reply so that no money is spent on acquiring the wrong parts. I actually gave all my Jonsered saws to Cantdog, which were only 2 in number so my knowledge on any specific model is limited.I will see if I can alert him to this on another site we share posts on.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

3rd one back with tail cut is a afm husky 372 cover to use on my 670. The used one in middle was my oringal cover with NOS band and parts in it. Then my new NOS cover found. But I think you can just use afm like I did.

 

[Cantdog]

Hey Rusty....welcome to the site! If you could post a couple pics of the saw and especially the clutch side would be, literally worth a thousand words. By your description your saw should be from the 1987 model year.... That said it is not by any means the latest version of this saw....but it is later than the coarse thread clutch so the crank should be the fine thread type. This allows a choice of several different clutches whereas the coarse thread type there is but one clutch that fits and they are getting hard to come by in good condition. The cover/brake set up CAN be adapted from a Husky 61, 266,268, 272 etc. but requires cuttin the back end of the cover away to the partition which directs the saw dust down. Cuts easy with a bandsaw or jigsaw. Be better to find an OEM Jonsered one but is doable. There are so many directions you can go in this family of saws but there are also some problems that can occur.

The easiest way would be to find a good used crank/crankcase and swap all your parts to it......changing cranks in your cases is a couple levels up on the wrenching scale and is best achieved using special tools. A crankcase swap is pretty straight forward using normal hand tools.

Here is a set that looks real good......1989 ...clean and low hour by looking at the usual wear points. Just thought.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1255158857...RzsvFTfS6to37aHOw%3D|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2047675

 

[rusty1778]

Hey Rusty....welcome to the site! If you could post a couple pics of the saw and especially the clutch side would be, literally worth a thousand words. By your description your saw should be from the 1987 model year.... That said it is not by any means the latest version of this saw....but it is later than the coarse thread clutch so the crank should be the fine thread type. This allows a choice of several different clutches whereas the coarse thread type there is but one clutch that fits and they are getting hard to come by in good condition. The cover/brake set up CAN be adapted from a Husky 61, 266,268, 272 etc. but requires cuttin the back end of the cover away to the partition which directs the saw dust down. Cuts easy with a bandsaw or jigsaw. Be better to find an OEM Jonsered one but is doable. There are so many directions you can go in this family of saws but there are also some problems that can occur.

The easiest way would be to find a good used crank/crankcase and swap all your parts to it......changing cranks in your cases is a couple levels up on the wrenching scale and is best achieved using special tools. A crankcase swap is pretty straight forward using normal hand tools.

Here is a set that looks real good......1989 ...clean and low hour by looking at the usual wear points. Just thought.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1255158857...RzsvFTfS6to37aHOw%3D|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2047675

Thanks for all the info, I know it's quite the process and I'm trying to decide between either trying to do a bottom end or just case swapping. Given the saw's personal history I'm leaning towards keeping it as original as possible and taking a stab at the crank swap. I'm willing to invest in a case splitter etc. Time will tell with what I can find for parts. I may reach out to this seller and see if they will send to Canada.

Here are some pics, hasn't even been cleaned yet.

 

[The Shooters Apprentice]

Well, I happen to have a 630 I picked up over the summer. Gas tank is cracked and poorly patched, and I haven’t tested compression or checked to see if it will run or not. So I wouldn’t be against parting it out.

 

[Cantdog]

Thanks for all the info, I know it's quite the process and I'm trying to decide between either trying to do a bottom end or just case swapping. Given the saw's personal history I'm leaning towards keeping it as original as possible and taking a stab at the crank swap. I'm willing to invest in a case splitter etc. Time will tell with what I can find for parts. I may reach out to this seller and see if they will send to Canada.

Here are some pics, hasn't even been cleaned yet.

View attachment 1025277
View attachment 1025279

View attachment 1025282

That looks like it will clean up nicely. It did have the fine thread crankshaft.
Understandable to want to keep it the as original as possible.

Worthy project either way you go. You should pull the muffler and see what kind of rings it has. They tried the "thin rings" around that time. Generally they have a single 1.5 mm thick ring. Some very early ones had two 1.5mm rings. The thin ring pistons had a pair of .75mm rings and were considered very high performance due to better seal than a single ring with less friction than two thick rings but still giving good heat transfer to the cyl walls.. In practice they failed mainly to to carbon build up and were not stiff enough to overcome moderate carboning. The oils back then were no where near as advanced as today.......and eveyone used more oil in their mix. Anyway.....if it has thin rings plan on a new single ring piston as the thin rings have been NLA forever. Meteor is a good substitute and easy to come by. If your piston is in good condition and a single ring type a new Caber ring and you're in business!

 

[rusty1778]

That looks like it will clean up nicely. It did have the fine thread crankshaft.
Understandable to want to keep it the as original as possible.

Worthy project either way you go. You should pull the muffler and see what kind of rings it has. They tried the "thin rings" around that time. Generally they have a single 1.5 mm thick ring. Some very early ones had two 1.5mm rings. The thin ring pistons had a pair of .75mm rings and were considered very high performance due to better seal than a single ring with less friction than two thick rings but still giving good heat transfer to the cyl walls.. In practice they failed mainly to to carbon build up and were not stiff enough to overcome moderate carboning. The oils back then were no where near as advanced as today.......and eveyone used more oil in their mix. Anyway.....if it has thin rings plan on a new single ring piston as the thin rings have been NLA forever. Meteor is a good substitute and easy to come by. If your piston is in good condition and a single ring type a new Caber ring and you're in business!

Looks like the dual ring set up you mentioned? Not sure if 1.5 or .75 though. The piston and cylinder look great and it feels like lots of compression, would I get away with reusing what's there? This saw won't be used for heavy work, I really just want it functional and as original as possible.

 

[Cantdog]

Looks like the dual ring set up you mentioned? Not sure if 1.5 or .75 though. The piston and cylinder look great and it feels like lots of compression, would I get away with reusing what's there? This saw won't be used for heavy work, I really just want it functional and as original as possible.

Well......Yep that's the thin ring setup.....and yes they may be reused if not wore out......the ring end gap should be nt more than 0.010 or so, and be sure to clean the ring lands in the piston carefully of all carborn and be careful not to break a ring as there will be no replacing it. Use very good quality synthetic oil and don't over do the oil in the mix and you will likely do fine. They actually did make good power just very succeptible to misuse.....more so than any other ring sets.

 

[Cantdog]

Also judging from the cleanliness and color of your cyl that saw has not been used hard nor terribly long so I would say you are likely good to go with that setup.

 

[Sepia]

Where are you in Canada Rusty? If you are anywhere near me I have a case splitter you can use.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

Looks like the dual ring set up you mentioned? Not sure if 1.5 or .75 though. The piston and cylinder look great and it feels like lots of compression, would I get away with reusing what's there? This saw won't be used for heavy work, I really just want it functional and as original as possible.

I just finished going through a 266SE I picked up not long ago, it has the thin ring piston. I got really lucky and found a NOS set of rings they’re .5 mm thick. Looks like that top end is in good condition, if it’s got good compression I’d leave it as-is.

 

[rusty1778]

Where are you in Canada Rusty? If you are anywhere near me I have a case splitter you can use.

Really appreciate that man, I'm in NS. I'll probably end up picking one up anyways but thanks very much for the offer.

 

[rusty1778]

Well, I happen to have a 630 I picked up over the summer. Gas tank is cracked and poorly patched, and I haven’t tested compression or checked to see if it will run or not. So I wouldn’t be against parting it out.

Let me know if you do, would be interested in the crankshaft if it's fine thread

 

[The Shooters Apprentice]

I was wrong. It’s a 625. I don’t have another one to compare it to, but it looks fine thread to me.

 

[rusty1778]

I was wrong. It’s a 625. I don’t have another one to compare it to, but it looks fine thread to me.

View attachment 1025440

I think they would match if your serial is above 4160001. I can't compare the threads on mine since they are still buried in the clutch.

 

[KASH]

Many thanks from a fellow Canadian in North Western Ontario.
Kash

 

[Cantdog]

I was wrong. It’s a 625. I don’t have another one to compare it to, but it looks fine thread to me.

View attachment 1025440

Yep 625 will be the same as the 87 630 lower end. Be no problem swapping until you get to the 625 II....even then doable as long as you have the correct flywheel to go with the later crank. Such a huge saw family...really easy and fun to work in.

 

[rob066]

Yep 625 will be the same as the 87 630 lower end. Be no problem swapping until you get to the 625 II....even then doable as long as you have the correct flywheel to go with the later crank. Such a huge saw family...really easy and fun to work in.

That is what I tried two say back in a earlier post. There 501 52 8402. and 503 61 3371. One uses the cast in key on the flywheel and the other woodruff key in the crank. I was trying to isolate crank he needs without a flywheel swap. Simply take the flywheel nut off and see if it has a keyway.