well after reading about the burn times on the Jotul stove, I checked my gaskets with a dollar bill and they were almost all shot. I ordered the kit and changed everything out ( the door, the glass and the ash pan). Only problem now is that I can't get the stove really cranking like before. I am getting longer burn times out of the wood but room where the stove is won't get above 80 degrees and I temp gauge on the stove won't really get over 500. It seems like a completely different stove now. The wood I am burning is about 1 season year old red oak. I know that before the seals were probably letting in more air thus getting the fire hotter but also eating more wood. Anyone have any ideas on how to get more heat now???
Jotul not throwing as much heat after gasket replacement...
- Thread starter skmag357
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jack_90125
ArboristSite Operative
use dryer wood.a year is not enough for oak.
Exactly.
Dan_IN_MN
Addicted to ArboristSite
OP
Do you get any hissing from the wood? Is the wood cracked on the ends?
Was the wood split durning that drying process?
goof008
ArboristSite Operative
My guess is that you were over firing your stove. You closed the air gaps that let extra air in making it burn hotter, but for a shorter time.
My guess you are burning it how the manufacturer designed it to burn.
When I replaced all my gaskets I had the same issue...so I pulled out a bit of gasket around one of the windows until it was burning at the right temp on the thermometer.
Not the best solution I know, but it got my flue temps where they should be, provided good heat and a good burn time...just a suggestion.
My guess you are burning it how the manufacturer designed it to burn.
When I replaced all my gaskets I had the same issue...so I pulled out a bit of gasket around one of the windows until it was burning at the right temp on the thermometer.
Not the best solution I know, but it got my flue temps where they should be, provided good heat and a good burn time...just a suggestion.
sunfish
Fish Head
Sounds like you FIXED it. 
Drier wood will put out more heat. But 80* would be way too warm for me!
Drier wood will put out more heat. But 80* would be way too warm for me!
The tree was dead for a while before it fell. It was dropped December of 2009 and cut into 18 inch rounds. I split the rounds into 1/8ths back in June and they seasoned all summer in the sun. I will get a piece every now and then that hisses and pops but everything else is pretty much dry. It burned fine before I replaced the gaskets....
Yes, green wood will burn in an open fireplace, but that does not mean it is seasoned. Oak is a 2-year to season once cut/split/stacked wood. Try mixing in some pallet wood or other dry wood with your oak to improve your results.
Hedgerow
HACK
+1 there... Red oak is a very slow drying wood. And if you have it outside, "not under roof", It takes even longer. I.E. 2-3 years...
It's the only wood I have for the rest of the season. I kinda fixed the problem by loosing the glass screws two or three turns to let some air in....burning bright and hot again for now....next year I will get some drier wood :msp_biggrin:
logbutcher
Addicted to ArboristSite
Remember that EPA non cat wood stoves are mommie :msp_scared: stoves to comply with EPA "clean burning" (sic) regs. The primary air control we call the Oslo doghouse will only allow just enough air for high burn, but just enough air when 'closed' for low burning. This is unlike our older wood stoves or some cat stove like our VC Encore, that do allow a broad range of primary air fro wide open that will overburn the stove, to very low primary air that is near completely shut down.
You did the right thing by doing the gaskets. But try this stove hack: drill another same sized hole beside the other two on the inside of the doghouse. For you lawyers: be sure the stove is dead cold.:msp_flapper: This will give you the European doghouse air on Oslos while still able to shut your air as before the new hole. Or, ask your dealer for the Euro doghouse with the extra holes.
Oak can take a couple of years to fully season, but you can use smaller splits for a hotter, faster fire. We normally get the fire up by cracking the side door until around 400-500 F on the thermometer on the top rear right corner. Also save the softwoods for kindling or short shoulder season fires.
Bill is in the mail, or, PM for the sending address for the 1/5 Laphroaig.
You did the right thing by doing the gaskets. But try this stove hack: drill another same sized hole beside the other two on the inside of the doghouse. For you lawyers: be sure the stove is dead cold.:msp_flapper: This will give you the European doghouse air on Oslos while still able to shut your air as before the new hole. Or, ask your dealer for the Euro doghouse with the extra holes.
Oak can take a couple of years to fully season, but you can use smaller splits for a hotter, faster fire. We normally get the fire up by cracking the side door until around 400-500 F on the thermometer on the top rear right corner. Also save the softwoods for kindling or short shoulder season fires.
Bill is in the mail, or, PM for the sending address for the 1/5 Laphroaig.
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