Just curious...how dangerous are they really?

[Diesel JD]

Talking about bow bars and clearing guides. I probably won't use one anytime soon, but might own one in the future since it's a piece of logging history and disappearing real fast. I've heard both sides...some say it's a good way to reallyhurt yourself, others say they are no more dangerous than a straight bar if used as intended, by experienced users strictly for bucking, not felling or limbing. Anybody have an opinion, actually uses/used these things in the past? Lets hear it...

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

I'd say that they're as safe/dangerous as a standard bar if used in their intended fashion. That said, I'd say the caveat is that there's less of a margin of safety on a bow bar; they're less forgiving than a standard bar, and likely get misused more often.

Jeff

 

[Lawn Masters]

I have a bowbar, and I use it regularly, so with some certainty, I can say, that IF used PROPERLY, they are no more dangerous than a regular bar. you just have to use it safely, and keep all the gaurds IN PLACE.

 

[firebenrt]

My dad has plastic surgery and 4 fake teeth from a bowbar accident in the 70's. the chain caught hold of something and sent the bar flyin right up to his kisser. Ofcourse safety PROBABLY wasn't as big of a concern at the time... and no chain brake.

 

[Diesel JD]

Interesting responses. What kind of saw do you ahve the bow on Lawn Masters? I have heard that teh chain guards and spurs are REALLY important with these guys if they are to be used safely. Also whereabouts in FL are you?

 

[tony marks]

there less common so probably less people have experience withum.the old pulp wood men used them all the time in the past.still i gotta believe there is more chance to get hurt withum...jmo

 

[Diesel JD]

I would seem so. There is a MUCH larger kickback area with the bow guides. In the new Stihl manuals they advise against using them, but in the older manuals they say only for experienced users and only with gaurds and only on powerheads with a chain brake.

 

[MotoBoyMatt]

So what's the big advantage to bow bars? I've heard that they allow you to buck smaller (pulp sized) logs without pinching the saw. (because the hollow part of the bow is in the pinch point by the time you've cut far enough for the kerf to close). Then I've seen in Bailey's (http://onlinestore.forestindustry.com/baileys/images/items/TBBB-14-SS50.jpg) bow bars with guards that wouldn't allow for this kind of cutting. I find it odd that the part that's not guarded is the giant kick back producing nose of the bar. I guess the black ear is there to prevent the bar from kicking out of a cut?

 

[SandMan]

So looking at the pic from Bailey's, the front of the bar (against the spur) feeds into a small log? If that's the case, you could cut without pinching. Sort of a plunge cut, but not really as you would be cutting with the front wide section. Do I have this right? Haven't seen one in use, so I don't have a clue. I don't have a clue in general, but that's another story...

 

[Diesel JD]

I think that the black ear, or spur rests against the log to be bucked. the chain guards keep the chain from cutting you to pieces and the chain just flows through the cut. Since I like all these kind of things I'd like to play around with one....but realize I shouldn't be cavalier about doing so.

 

[smokechase II]

Bow bars were a moderately big item on the fireline in brush about 20+ years ago.
The stinger/dawg could be used to keep the bar out of the dirt.
In theory, back then, less kickback with no sharp corners on the tip of the bar.
The change away from them was probably related to the sprocket tips on our straight bars now. They allow us to run the chain a bit tighter and throwing the chain is not the problem it used to be in cutting brush. Hence the bow bar looses that advantage.
A caveat on the bow bar for bucking or falling. What you gonna do when the wood you're cutting falls into the inside and holds your saw there?
The stinger also gets in the way on larger diameter wood.
The real way to deal with your bar being pinched is to do the compression wood only so far, use a wedge or maybe cut a pie and perhaps finish from the other side.

 

[MotoBoyMatt]

A caveat on the bow bar for bucking or falling. What you gonna do when the wood you're cutting falls into the inside and holds your saw there?

Are you talking about after the log is cut? Wouldn't the section you just bucked off be managable enough to get your saw out? I don't know I've only read about the use of bow bars.

A question about using a clearing bow, is the saw used turned on it's side (as if felling)? An if so how does the spur/ear/stinger/dawg (I assume these all refer to the black thing in the pic) keep the bar out of the dirt?

 

[wagonwheeler]

Bow bars were used extensively around here by pulpwooders and firewood cutters. A good friend of mine still runs one (Poulan w/ markings long gone) and we used it a couple of weeks ago to cut 2 16" +/- oaks and one 16" +/- pine.

He used to cut firewood for a side job 25 years ago or so and as hard as he is on any power equipment I'm awed that it still functions. But it still screams.

Basically you do a plunge cut and run the spur down the face of the log and under it, then rock the saw over the top using the spur as a pivot. Very quick and rarely gets pinched.

Seems to work fairly good for felling the tree as well by running the spur around the trunk and using it as an index or pivot for plunge cutting the face cut.

They pop up around here every once in a while at the pawn shops but not often. I remember seeing the whole Poulan line up new in the stores back then.

Chaser

 

[Diesel JD]

Wow, this is an interesting topic. When we moved out to this neighborhood the guy that was in charge of land clearing had a Stihl with a bow on it. Not too long ago ('bout 2-3 years,) they had another saw set up with a bow, think it was an 036 Pro or similar. These guys seemed to make it look easy. Also a pro tree cutter when I was just a little kid had one and was using it for all operations, felling, bucking whatever. I have been told that bows are strictly for bucking. That limbing and felling is where the bad injuries that you hear about occur.

 

[Lawn Masters]

I use mine STRICTLY for bucking, and one MUST excercise common sense, and safety when using such an implement, since this one CAN and WILL kill you if you're not careful with it.

I use mine, but with GREAT care to not kill myself in the process of use.

 

[Diesel JD]

Yep....that's what I thought....but I was just wondering which of your saws you use it on. IF I ever have one, it's gonna be used just for bucking firewood, with great care.

 

[Lawn Masters]

well, mine is on an older Mac 10-10 auto. I'd love to have one for my jred 670.

 

[Diesel JD]

Thanks for teh info, if I ever run one it will be on a Stihl with teh standard mount. Cahinbrake and ONLY for bucking. Or maybe just for my collection of logging related stuff.