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If You would consider a Dolmar/Makita 6400 why not replace the bottom end bearing on Your 6400?
Cost should stay way under Your desired budget.

Just wondering!

So long story on that saw:
Bought it running for $200, August 2nd as a bday present, then the flywheel key snapped on it the first day I had her out that week.
I put the big bore kit on it $130, and lined up the timing by eye, it ran fine for one log, then the cylinder bolt heads sheared off (guess I needed to retorq after running it for a minute).:dumb:
Put new bolts in but it wouldn't idle and would only run wide open, and would bog sometimes until I popped the air filter back off and on. I made a few cuts with it trying to tune the carb, and fiddled with it for a couple of days, but wasn't getting anywhere. It acted like an air leak to me, so I replace the crank seals. Still wouldn't run right. I redid the cylinder gasket. Still funky. I'm not the best with carbs so after having cleaned the carb and still no luck I broke down and took it to the shop and they said the carb failed a pressure test and needed rebuilt and that the liquid copper gasket I was using was a bad idea. I paid them around $110 to do the carb and sell me an oem gasket. I took the saw home and rebuilt it myself to save on labor, and still she acted the same, wouldn't idle, would run/bog w/o. Took it back to the shop to have tune it, and they said the timing was off and I would need to replace the flywheel before it could be tuned. So rather than have a $400 paperweight, I thought it would be better to have a $550 runner; i bought the $140 flywheel. The $%*#!# thing still acted the same, except now I could barely get it to run at all. :wtf: Took it back to the shop and they pressure tested it (I thought they had done this before because I thought it had an air leak). They told me it needed the clutch side crank seal, and the impulse nipple on the new bbk was leaking but they felt they had repaired this with epoxy, also mild scoring on the piston and cylinder. :dumb2:
I got ahold of Weedeaterman at this time to let him know I may need a return if the epoxy failed, and without any effort from me he shipped me a new one "so I would have a back up on hand in case I needed it", no questions asked. I'm very impressed with him and his business FYI; buy with confidence.:bowdown:
I decided to have them put in the crank seal because if it was still leaking I must have botched it somehow. They then called me to tell me the saw was "totaled" basically. They said there is play in the crank, and that is why the seal failed. There was also a "little bit of rust under the seal" and he wasn't sure if it was the bearings that were bad or the crank and it was "cost prohibitive relative to the value of the saw" to repair it. I wish they would have told me that $370 ago!:angry:

So to answer your question, why not replace the bearing? 1) I'm still not entirely sure that is the exact problem 2) I need to learn how to split a case 3) Last but not least I have been trying to get that saw running since early August, I would like to fix it, neigh, love to fix it (it has been the bane of my 2 stroke existence) but I would like to have a functioning saw in the mean time. I have learned a lot about 2 strokes with that saw, I could take it apart and rebuild it blindfolded now, but its been the hard way pretty much every time.

Good question :D
 
Alright gents, I've really appreciated the inputs and offers... I want to lay some of the offers I'm considering for your opinions on what would be the best deal/suit my needs best:

Saw #1 $425 shipped -Dolmar 7900 from 2009 with HD filter kit, 150psi compression, looks pretty clean

Saw #2 $375 plus shipping- Husq 288 high top looks well used and complete, full wrap (one in this thread)

Saw #3 $400 shipped- Husq 288 high top, new bearings, meteor p&c, rings, carb kit, full wrap, looks pretty clean

Or should I sell my 520 for $150ish and go for a 394?

Anyone ever use a 7900 and a 288 that can compare the two, that would be super helpful?

(not really considering the stihls unless a stupid good deal hits me in the face, I have the husq/dolmar D009 mount bars already)
 
Saw #2 from Mike sounds good to me. I don't think he would do you wrong. I'd love to have a band mill as well, but my chainsaw mill set up suits me fine. I only need to mill a few bridge boards every once in awhile. A fun way to spend the day if you ask me.
 
Saw #2 from Mike sounds good to me. I don't think he would do you wrong. I'd love to have a band mill as well, but my chainsaw mill set up suits me fine. I only need to mill a few bridge boards every once in awhile. A fun way to spend the day if you ask me.

I don't think he likes to ship. I could be wrong, though.
 
Saw #3 $400 shipped- Husq 288 high top, new bearings, meteor p&c, rings, carb kit, full wrap, looks pretty clean.

Anyone ever use a 7900 and a 288 that can compare the two, that would be super helpful?

(not really considering the stihls unless a stupid good deal hits me in the face, I have the husq/dolmar D009 mount bars already)
who has the high top for $400 shipped? That's a good deal.
 
Right you are on the "doesn't like to ship". Anyone that wants this saw before CL? I will drop it to $350 because CL guys like to beat me down even after running a good saw. They like good looks too. Mike
 
PS Josh #3 looks good go with that. BTW it amazes me how careful you are being now. Why not that same care and concern before? This AS would have helped you about $300 worth. The horse is out of the barn and now you are trying what you should have, to begin with.
Milling is some of the hardest work a saw can do. Use lots of oil in the mix and bar/chain. Use the biggest saw you can afford. Cut with a correct chain for the job. Angle the saw a little and cut down hill. Let off the throttle once in a while (pulls cooling mix into the chamber) and cool the saw if it gets warm, by stopping/resting. Keep the fins and saw clean so it can cool. Mike
 
Regarding the OP's "learning experience", while it was expensive, I try to correlate those situations to the cost of higher education. Many colleges now are well over 30K a year. Just a 3 credit online class can run 1000 bucks or more. So in that perspective, for the amount of knowledge acquired, it may not be as horrible as it seems.
 
Well gents, a combination of your advice, and CAD led me to a good condition Husqvarna 395xp.

I was planning on buying a 36" bar and chain at $120 anyway, so when I found a 395xp w/ 36" bar and chain for $589 I was able to justify it in my head (and more importantly my wife's head) that it was like buying a PHO for $469! I figure thats worth selling a saw or two. :cheers:

So if anyone else wants to jump on those other deals, please do.

The bad news there is a 24" saw mill listed used for $1000 near me.... might have to sell me some more things.

Thank you everyone, and I will put some obligatory chainsaw glamour shots on here when she arrives because....
:thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpictures:
 
PS Josh #3 looks good go with that. BTW it amazes me how careful you are being now. Why not that same care and concern before? This AS would have helped you about $300 worth. The horse is out of the barn and now you are trying what you should have, to begin with.
Mike

It took me 5 months to make all those mistakes, does that make those mistakes anymore careful lol...

...appreciate the milling tips.
 
Josh,I have a 36" alaskan mill and run a ported 2188 on it.
Its just like the other guys are sayin, you need a big saw.
I put a auxilary oiler on mine ,when ur runnin full bar it needs it.
When millin I richin it up to the point where barely cleans up in the cut.
I also got a milling chain from Bailys,big difference in cut quality and doesnt pull saw so hard.Its a little slower but worth it.
My 2cents.
good luck,its not fast millin but I think its fun.
 

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