Will be going with a logrite cant with a logrite stand. Get a lot of around 25 to 30 inch logs around 8 feet or a little longer. Would you get a 48 or 60 inch handle to use the stand for those size logs. I did a search but did not come up with info. May not have used the correct phrases to make it work. Could any of yous guys help a brother out so I won't just be guessing. Don't have a lot of lead in the rear end for leverage.
Length of cant hook handle.
- Thread starter timsmcm
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I had a 48" Logrite cant hook but gave it away after I bought a wood-handled 60" cant hook at a garage sale. 60" gives more leverage.
The longer the handle, the more leverage you get. I would say 60". It's 4' vs 5'
60" hands down.
.I Also bought the stand like you but found its more of a hindrance than anything. I'm glad I have it and there are days I take it out in the woods for a just in case log that needs cut that I can't pick up with my tractor. Using it specifically as a cant the stand gets in the way more than it helps.
.I Also bought the stand like you but found its more of a hindrance than anything. I'm glad I have it and there are days I take it out in the woods for a just in case log that needs cut that I can't pick up with my tractor. Using it specifically as a cant the stand gets in the way more than it helps.
ValleyForge
Liberty Farms
I use the shorter cant hooks on the mill…and the longer peaveys on logs and skidding….I love my 60” yellow logrite peavey….
ValleyForge
Liberty Farms
I find the peavey a lot more useful out in the woods on logs and timber because of the point end, but that’s me. I have a log jack on the one and it works great if the soil is ok or you have to cut a cookie to give it a better foundation.
After trying log jacks, I cut logs on the ground. I cut one side as far as I can without risking putting the saw into dirt, then roll the log over and finish the cuts. I find that easier than repositioning a log jack.
My Woodchuck Dual cant hook/peavy is 47" and that's long enough to let me roll 90% of the logs I deal with. If they're past 3-4' I use the tractor.
I have a 48" Logrite and it will handle straight, round, 24" Beech logs fairly well if you're on flat ground. If your logs are crooked and twisted or if the ground is rough and uneven, or even worse there's snow on the ground, you better pack a lunch or get the 60"er'.
start your cut about 3/4 through and then drive a wedge in them, will lift you clear of the ground
mine is about 6', awkward but a lot of leverage
ive got an older all steel sneddens cant hook, its 1.7mt long, great for the larger logs.
I agree: 1. cut mostly thru, then roll the log to nip the last part or 2. carry wedges and wedge the cut open.
Sometimes you have to jump 2 or 3 cuts down along the log to find a workable location to cut thru, and then come back to buck the others. (I mark each cut with the nose of the bar to keep from producing odd size rounds.)
But the longer the handle, the more likely you'll move your wood as you'd like to. Of course, if you have a tractor or a pickup nearby, hook rope or chain to the wood and move it that way.
Sometimes you have to jump 2 or 3 cuts down along the log to find a workable location to cut thru, and then come back to buck the others. (I mark each cut with the nose of the bar to keep from producing odd size rounds.)
But the longer the handle, the more likely you'll move your wood as you'd like to. Of course, if you have a tractor or a pickup nearby, hook rope or chain to the wood and move it that way.
I cut a lot of oak too. A log like your talking about your better off cutting and rolling to finish the cut. Or just roll it up on a big enough branch to keep it off the ground. Using the stand on that size log is pushing the limits. You'll definitely want 60" handle rolling stuff like that.
