Carburetorless
ArboristSite Guru
Hey, I know, let's be reaaaalllly serious now. Let's get reaaaaaalllllllll serious man, come on, let's get reaaalllyy serious.
LMAO
Light Rigging?
- Thread starter Newguy12358
- Start date
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Hey, I know, let's be reaaaalllly serious now. Let's get reaaaaaalllllllll serious man, come on, let's get reaaalllyy serious.
LMAO
Stayalert
ArboristSite Operative
yeesh. yes that is all. just yeesh......
TreeGuyHR
ArboristSite Guru
With light or heavy, the key is letting the limb or chunk run -- stopping it dead is never a good idea -- forces increase rapidly with the length of the drop if the load is stopped on the line.
Heavy rigging can take it, but stressing the rigging and rope can damage it, and reduce its working limits.
Example:my climber had a favorite little scrap of rope he liked to use with which he tied his pulley on the trunk for dropping the top of a big pine we were taking down. Probably would have been OK, but the rigging line flipped around the back of the block, more or less stopping the line from running, and the scrap snapped, sending everything to the ground and taking out a fence.
Heavier rigging would have held, but might have been damaged as well. I had to retire a moderately used 200 ft. 1/2 in. lowering line. At least the fence would have been OK -- four 16 ft. old-growth fir boards were splintered to bits.
Also, heavier blocks are chunkier and less likely to catch a loop of rope. My lighter block, a CMI, was rated for the work, but is lighter and allowed a bight of the rope to snag around it; my heavy block is physically much heavier and doesn't have a potential gap to catch the rope.
Heavy rigging can take it, but stressing the rigging and rope can damage it, and reduce its working limits.
Example:my climber had a favorite little scrap of rope he liked to use with which he tied his pulley on the trunk for dropping the top of a big pine we were taking down. Probably would have been OK, but the rigging line flipped around the back of the block, more or less stopping the line from running, and the scrap snapped, sending everything to the ground and taking out a fence.
Heavier rigging would have held, but might have been damaged as well. I had to retire a moderately used 200 ft. 1/2 in. lowering line. At least the fence would have been OK -- four 16 ft. old-growth fir boards were splintered to bits.
Also, heavier blocks are chunkier and less likely to catch a loop of rope. My lighter block, a CMI, was rated for the work, but is lighter and allowed a bight of the rope to snag around it; my heavy block is physically much heavier and doesn't have a potential gap to catch the rope.
arborealbuffoon
Wood Wh@re
I have always preferred "light rigging". Gives you all the fun with only half the calories.
NOW you guys know how I have remained so darned good lookin' all these years.....yup......and I am completely serious.
And before any one says it, my camera is mysteriously broken right at the moment.
NOW you guys know how I have remained so darned good lookin' all these years.....yup......and I am completely serious.
And before any one says it, my camera is mysteriously broken right at the moment.
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