Lightweight Bar Vibration??

[Paul Silvestri]

I've noticed lately that when running my lightweight bars I get a vibration or almost a chatter when leaning on it a little. I don't notice this with my regular weight (factory) bars... Is this just a trait of lightweight bars? or is something else attributing to this?

FWIW I'm referencing the Oregon versacut bars... So maybe build quality is in question?

Thanks, Guys.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I run several of the Versacuts, they are fine unless you pinch em. I would think that the issue is more not sharp enough chain. You shouldn't have to lean on it at all. If it's actually sharp, you should have ta lean back so it doesn't suck you through the cut.

 

[Paul Silvestri]

Chains are sharp for sure but I would agree you should lean on it. I didn’t pick the best words for my meaning. I mean into a larger log or in something that isn’t as dry.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I'm running all lightweight bars, Versacuts on smaller saws, Stihl ES Lights on the bigger. I notice they all wriggle more, side to side, but not a lot of difference in chain to wood vertical vibration.

Have a buddy who used the Versacut on logging jobs in the PNW. He says he has a pile of them that aren't straight enough to use any longer. Really easy to get a kink in them. I've straightened a couple of mine, but my longest being 20 inchers on 361 and 362 saws. Haven't had to toss one out so far in a couple years of using them. But I don't use them on bigger commercial sites, only my own one or two man logging operation. I like the lightness and of course, the price. The ES Light bar has been spectacular, but definitely wriggles more than a standard ES bar.

 

[Short timer]

Could be different raker heights.

 

[SteveSr]

Could be different raker heights.

Or too much hook in the tooth. Had a sawyer in our trail club bring me a saw and was complaining of it being "jumpy and grabby". You should have seen the hook in that chain! It was an MS 250 and due to his poor sharpening technique he also toasted the clutch and clutch springs. Some people can break an anvil!

 

[Paul Silvestri]

This from the 562 and the 461

I thought it looked pretty normal but maybe I need more practice

 

[Rick Stephens]

I'd think the full comp on the top would run smoother than the skip on the bottom. You don't file rakers? Or just too new of chains? They look nicely sharpened. Oregon LGX chain?

 

[Paul Silvestri]

I haven’t filled the rakers on these two yet. Both are stihl chains. The skip tooth actually cuts smother than the full comp..

 

[homemade]

Always file the rakers.


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[deye223]

Only when they need it

 

[Paul Silvestri]

Always file the rakers.


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good advice. Thank you! I’ll te

Only when they need it

Maybe a dumb question but when do they need it? I know you can file them too much also.

 

[deye223]

I keep mine between 30 and 40 thou that's usually a few rubs every third sharpen of the main cutter the third rub I roll the file of the raker to radius the leading-edge of it .

 

[homemade]

It’s a well known fact that brand new chains, while they cut good, are not perfect. Stihl and Oregon sharpen the cutters before they are spun into a chain. So the cutters might be high or low compared to the depth gauge. I always run a Oregon raker file gauge over the chains when I sharpen. After two teeth, you’ll know if they have to lowered or not.


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[Philbert]

Maybe a dumb question but when do they need it? I know you can file them too much also.

As you cutter is worn / filed / ground back, the top plate is lowered, so the depth gauge needs to be adjusted in order to maintain that offset. Whether you choose to maintain a constant offset (e.g. 0.025"), or use a progressive offset (based on angular relationships), it is best IMO to use some type of gauge to obtain accurate and consistent settings, and to avoid taking too much off, resulting in a 'grabby chain'.

Below are links to some related threads. Always file depth gauges 'from the inside out', and round them over to match their original profile when finished

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/depth-gauge-tools-for-saw-chain.279374/
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/stihl-progressive-depth-gauge-tool.336757/
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/husky-progressive-depth-gauge-filing-guides.334238/
Philbert

 

[toadman]

mine does this when I have good sharp teeth, but too little bite (high rakers).
it will bite fine in soft wood, or throw paper thin "chips" that look good, but are not optimal. typically requires leaning on it in hard wood, and anything over 10" needs the dogs biting to cut.
I got schooled by several people, here and otherwise.
Buy a depth gauge, and use it everytime you sharpen.
Sometimes the teeth will be fine without touching the rakers, but in my experience that's almost never the case & I end up filing them every time I sharpen.
for me, it was like black magic the first time my own hand filed chain out cut a factory one

 

[Paul Silvestri]

I ended up touching up the rakers a little bit and the symptom disappeared!! Thank you for the helpful education and discussion.