Limit Cap ? Yes this topic again

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Racerboy832

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If you remove the limit cap, slice the tab off then in theory why do you have to replace them. There is nothing holding them in? Is it that they can't fall out completely cause the rubber piece with the H L idle screw. If I have a carb with the metal piece missing that the red caps sit in should I leave it alone, put caps on them or hope they don't fall out.
 
I could be wrong, but aren't the caps there to also keep the adj. screws from vibrating out of adjustment?
 
Theyare there to limit how far you can open them. Most people have said to slice the locking tab and reinstall them. My ? to them is , Why do you put them back afterwards? If you can rotate them all the way around what holds them in? I've been running my MS290 with them out but I don't want to take any chances. I also don't have the metal divider anymore. It came out with them and I don't know where it went.
 
If you remove the limit cap, slice the tab off then in theory why do you have to replace them. There is nothing holding them in? Is it that they can't fall out completely cause the rubber piece with the H L idle screw. If I have a carb with the metal piece missing that the red caps sit in should I leave it alone, put caps on them or hope they don't fall out.



What kind of saw are you talking about?
 
I redid a 029 and Im working on a 044 right now. The caps are held in with friction from that aluminum collar with holes in it fot the caps. The needles dont have any means to stay in place. They could vibrate out if the caps arent on. At least thats ho the two I did were.:cheers:
 
So they are a friction fit between the red cap and the outside divider with 2 holes. I thought the cap was only held in by the screw head and the little tab was so it would only turn a little under 1 turn. I don't know why I keep driving my self nuts over these little orange machines.
 
I can't see where the red caps have much to do with the needles turning. They have a rubber washer/grommet at the bottom that puts tension on them and the new needles don't have enough mass to take much to keep them in place. If friction between the red caps and the cover is supposed to hold them in place it's not much of a design.
 
If you slice off the tab and put them back you have full adjustability and piece of mind that they will stay put, if you don't want to put them back, then don't.
 
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So they are a friction fit between the red cap and the outside divider with 2 holes. I thought the cap was only held in by the screw head and the little tab was so it would only turn a little under 1 turn. I don't know why I keep driving my self nuts over these little orange machines.

Buy Husky and stop worrying about it!
 
I cut some short pieces of yellow fuel line. About 4-5 MM long. The fit perfect over the screw and are snug. I know these aren't going anywhere.
 
I can't see where the red caps have much to do with the needles turning. They have a rubber washer/grommet at the bottom that puts tension on them and the new needles don't have enough mass to take much to keep them in place. If friction between the red caps and the cover is supposed to hold them in place it's not much of a design.

The dust seals on the screw do nothing to hold the needle, and particularly after a year or so... and they apply pressure inwards (to the thread), not out to the recess.

Factory caps are one thing.. and have changed a couple of times over the years. Replacement caps have extra detents to hold them in place.
 
old thread but needs to go BTTT...I found this thread helpful on my new MS290..
 

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