Log Splitter control valve question

[FuzzyOne]

I have a quick question I couldn't find the answer to from searching.

I was using my splitter yesterday (20 degrees) and noticed the the detent wasn't working properly (auto return) on the return stroke. I would pull the lever up and go get another round, but noticed half the time the cylinder stopped before being fully retracted. Is this a sign my control valve is going bad? It says "Energy" on it. The best I could tell it may be a Prince. I checked their website and mine looks a little different. The splitter is about 8 years old.

I wrote it off as being related to the cold weather, but it did it after the fluid warmed up. Maybe the detent needs adjusting somehow? Any suggestions? Thanks.

 

[triptester]

FuzzyOne,

I had a similar problem with an Energy brand valve last fall. Inside the cap on the back of the valve is a set screw and nut , on mine the screw broke causing the valve to operate with a mind of it's own.

 

[ironhead]

Mine does the same thing when its cold and then it works fine after warmed up.

 

[drmiller100]

you should be able to loosen the locknut and adjust the set screw....

 

[FuzzyOne]

Thanks for the replies. Yes, it did it when the fluid was warm. I pulled off the cap today, hoping no steel balls would go flying, and did not see a set screw. I did see a "kind of" nut with two indents on it. Not sure how to describe it other than it would need a screwdriver to tap it to rotate it. Other than that, there are no adjustments on the valve.

I was at least able to confirm it is an Energy brand. I'll call the company later and see if they have a CAD drawing of it. Thanks again.

 

[FuzzyOne]

I called "Energy" yesterday and talked to a guy in the support department. He told me I would have to order a new detent assembly. OK, so I ask how much. He said they have a $50 minimum order. No thanks, especially since I could buy a new Prince for $72.

So I heated up the splitter in my garage for several hours with a magnetic tank heater. Temp. outside was still about 20. I turned the adjusting nut to let the spring soft and it ran fine. I'm hoping that is all it was. I may order a new valve just to have on hand.

Tomorrow I'm heading out to get parts to put a pressure gauge together. Based on all I've read here, every splitter needs one. Thanks again.

 

[FuzzyOne]

Can I use just regular pipe for the fittings or does it have to be "hydraulic" fittings? I see a lot of homemade splitters with just regular zinc or black pipe ittings. Heading to TSC in the AM. I'm guesssing a 5k gauge???? Thank you again.

 

[Patrick62]

black pipe,.... oh no.

To be quite honest, it "might" work. The black pipe, that is.

Maybe with a reducer bushing one should be okay, but I would avoid the TEE's, couplers, etc. Return like is another matter, pressure is low there. But the hight side can see peaks of 2500, and black pipe is rated to less than 1000....

I have had my valves kick out early when cold. Usually goes away when warmed up. Energy valves may not have the kickout adjustable. I don't recall seeing anything that would qualify as a detent tension adjust....

Good luck!
-Pat

 

[Tree Farmer]

Can I use just regular pipe for the fittings or does it have to be "hydraulic" fittings? I see a lot of homemade splitters with just regular zinc or black pipe fittings. Heading to TSC in the AM. I'm guesssing a 5k gauge???? Thank you again.

The problem with sch40 black pipe is where the threads are cut look how thin it is at the bottom of the thread compared to a hydraulic fitting. I have used SCH80 black pipe that was rated 2250psi.

 

[FuzzyOne]

thanks again. I spent the other day trying to find the proper hardware to get this pressure gauge installed. Visited 5 stores, each of which sent me to another place. tractor Supply, an auto parts store, a hydraulic shop and two tracter/heavy equipment dealers. Nothing! I did look at the black pipe and it clearly stated "125 psi", so that's out.

I used the splitter all day yesterday. The detent valve didn't kick off after the adjustment. But I have myself believing the lower speed just isn't motoring through the wood like it should. I read a lot of info here and believe it may still be the valve adn a problem with the relief setting which does not appear to be adjustable. I may order a Prince and just keep the old one as a back-up.

I think I'll call "Don the Cylinder guy" and see if he can piece a gauge assembly together for me since he sells the valve and gauges.