Log Splitter Motor Help

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timberfab

ArboristSite Lurker
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Location
around state college, pa
So here's the deal. i built my own splitter (thread with pictures here) out of scrap forom jobs and about $300 of new hydraulics and hardware. Used a salvaged 10.5 hp Briggs and Stratton horizontal shaft motor. It worked when I started (running on my bench) but in reality it wasn't up to snuff. Carb was shot. new parts cost over $100. That is 1/3 the cost of the whole splitter. so I called around and found a 16.5 Kohler out of a craftsman riding mower, with electric start, for $80.00. ca-ching bought it. Sure it is a vertical shaft motor but that is a little thing. Got it home and re worked the motor mounting area, made a battery tray/gas tank holder/switch panel, and cut and turned the exhaust to fit my splitter. Wired in the starter and bur bur bur nothing but a spinning starter. Checked the plug and no spark, plenty of fuel and air.

So I then realize, this thing had several safety switches and a kill switch, but I have none of those! I am not a small engine mechanic and have no idea where to start to get this thing going!

So Oh Mighty and Knowledgeable AS forum, HELP ME! How do I wire this thing to run?

Motor is -

Kohler Comand
16.5 hp out of a craftsman mower
Family - SKH42691G2RB
Model - CV16s(or5)
Spec# - 43513-426cc
Serial# - 2805101643

Thanks!
 
If you have the model number for the mower, you can probably find an OM online. They usually include a wiring diagram, and from that, and perhaps a little help from some folks here at AS, you can figure out how to wire it. They have to have all those interlocks because folks insist on sticking their hands under the deck when the blade is running.
 
OK… I’m gonna’ get down-right basic with this question, only because you said, “I am not a small engine mechanic and have no idea where to start to get this thing going!

Did you ground the spark plug when you checked for spark?? Are you sure???
When you say, “plenty of fuel and air”, what exactly does that mean? Does the spark plug get dripping wet with fuel?

As far as spark is concerned, those “safety switches” and “kill switch” just ground the coil/ignition module by way of a common wire, or connection to the coil. If that wire/connection is “open” there will be spark, if it is “closed” to ground there will not be spark. It really is that simple.

But there is another thing those “safety switches” and “kill switch” do on most electric start Kohler engines. When they “close” the ground (B-) connection to the coil, they also “open” a positive (B+) connection to the fuel shutoff solenoid. You will find the solenoid mounted on the bottom of the carb, screwed into it under the float bowl, and normally has a male spade connection on it. Without battery voltage (B+) is applied to this solenoid it closes off all fuel passages from the float bowl into the carb body… i.e. the engine gets no fuel.
 
OK… I’m gonna’ get down-right basic with this question, only because you said, “I am not a small engine mechanic and have no idea where to start to get this thing going!”
Good cause everytime i aska question people assume i know a lot more than I do!

Did you ground the spark plug when you checked for spark?? Are you sure??? I held the spark plug close to the head like i woulf on my other engines or my chain saw
When you say, “plenty of fuel and air”, what exactly does that mean? Does the spark plug get dripping wet with fuel? I think i could smeel fuel, but in thinking about it, perhaps that was just from something else. the spark plug was not soaking wet when i took it out.

As far as spark is concerned, those “safety switches” and “kill switch” just ground the coil/ignition module by way of a common wire, or connection to the coil. If that wire/connection is “open” there will be spark, if it is “closed” to ground there will not be spark. It really is that simple.

But there is another thing those “safety switches” and “kill switch” do on most electric start Kohler engines. When they “close” the ground (B-) connection to the coil, they also “open” a positive (B+) connection to the fuel shutoff solenoid. You will find the solenoid mounted on the bottom of the carb, screwed into it under the float bowl, and normally has a male spade connection on it. Without battery voltage (B+) is applied to this solenoid it closes off all fuel passages from the float bowl into the carb body… i.e. the engine gets no fuel. can i run a jumper wire to the solenoid and make sure it opens and closes just to get it started?
 
can i run a jumper wire to the solenoid and make sure it opens and closes just to get it started?
Sure... just run a jumper from the battery (B+) directly to the solenoid and try starting the engine (you may even be able to hear or feel the solenoid activate when you make the connection). Don't leave the jumper connected when the engine ain't running because it will drain the battery.

I held the spark plug close to the head like i woulf on my other engines or my chain saw
"Close" ain't grounded... the metal threads (or often the hex nut part) must make solid contact with the ground source or no spark will jump across the spark plug gap. There must be a solid ground source or there ain't anywhere for the "spark" to go.
One more thing about spark... don't automatically assume there ain't any spark until you try a "known good" spark plug that is well grounded during the test.
 
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On the 2 Craftsman(Kohler) garden tractors i own there are 2 safety switches 1 on the seat 1 on the brake(that i know of),so if the engine turns over switch's have been overridden.
Have you pulled the fuel line to the carb and tried the key to see if it's getting fuel?
If it's not that engine should have a mechanical fuel pump on it.(4 screws check the diaphram,on the inlet of the head you pull off there are 2 check valves you should be able to blow through gas in and suck through out).
Have you dumped a (little) gas down the carb to see if it fires or pop's?
If so fuel problem.
Rare to see a bad US made plug,i have seen them though.
The main ? is did you hear it run before you bought it?
They always used to run, nobody ever changes the oil cleans air filters ect. and let's fuel set in the carb bowl to rust.
A few thing i would try.
FYI a big Kohler fan i have 6 of their engines US made and they last.
Mark
 
Along with all of the above info to check on, it may also have a low oil shut-off switch so make sure the engine oil level is correct. In order for the engine to charge the battery it must have a rectifer connected to the battery and a charging coil or ring by the flywheel. Check the mfg wiring diagram.
 
Really? And which brand of spark plug is US made? LOL

Whitespider you are more then correct!
I bought some ( Autorite spaak prug) today for the Power Wagon,(put on the ol' man readers) read the label.
Come Aww Da Waa Flum China.
I better savor the few Champion NIB plugs that i bought about 15 years ago that i don't need readers to see USA on the box.
I wonder if NGK'S are made there also?
I have had good luck with their plugs.
Mark
P.S. I wonder if he got that Kohler running?
 
I have not gotten it working. I have been busy building a new 6x12 cnc plasma table to replace my old Torchmate. haha I can scratch build a 3 axis cnc table, build and repair dry kilns and controllers, powder coat ovens, but I can't get a lawn mower engine started.
 
I wonder if NGK'S are made there also?

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