Log splitter valve

[tilenick]

I have been re-working my splitter over the last year and I was wondering about the valve I bought. It was listed as a 25 gpm valve with 1/2 work ports and 3/4 in/out ports. I also read in an earlier post that when you go to a 22 gpm pump you need to go to 3/4 lines. is the valve going to build up unwanted heat? I have all 1/2 inch lines now an am going to re plumb the ones i can in 3/4. The cylinder is already ported for 3/4 ( although it is only 3 1/4 x 18") everything else is also except for the work ports. And I plan on eliminating all the tight 90 degree fittings. Thanks.

 

[triptester]

Larger work ports would be nice but for your cylinder size it should work fine.

 

[blades]

using 3/4 lines you would need additional fitting to adapt to 1/2 ports. 1/2 ports = restriction. So might just as well pony up for 3/4 wp valve. When I got mine a couple yeas back it was still under a c note.

 

[nathon918]

using 3/4 lines you would need additional fitting to adapt to 1/2 ports. 1/2 ports = restriction. So might just as well pony up for 3/4 wp valve. When I got mine a couple yeas back it was still under a c note.

changing from a spool with 1/2" work ports to a spool with 3/4" work ports to control a cylinder with only 1/2" ports is pretty poinless... youre still restricted at the 1/2" cylinder ports, and will never flow more than what that 1/2" port will allow.
about the only thing you will gain is reduced wear on the hoses, since the fluid velocity will be less than with 1/2" hoses

 

[wndwlkr]

changing from a spool with 1/2" work ports to a spool with 3/4" work ports to control a cylinder with only 1/2" ports is pretty poinless... youre still restricted at the 1/2" cylinder ports, and will never flow more than what that 1/2" port will allow.
about the only thing you will gain is reduced wear on the hoses, since the fluid velocity will be less than with 1/2" hoses

I think the op said his cylinder is 3/4" ported.

 

[blades]

Cylinder 3/4" ports , reason for my post.

 

[Kevin in Ohio]

I'd highly recommend getting the bigger valve, you'll be happier with it for sure. I would at least get the auto return as well, it makes a VERY nice difference. Trust me, I know

 

[kevin j]

Look at the internals to see if the valve actually flows more.
'25 gpm' mfr rating is hard to compare because none of the consumer valves list pressure drop at those flows.

Some of the Prince (and probably others) valves are identical castings and spools inside, just tapped 1/2 or 3/4 at the port. Saves an adaptor but no change in pressure drop. So you have to be a bit eagle eyed.

 

[nathon918]

I think the op said his cylinder is 3/4" ported.

wow i totally missed that :bang:

 

[Oliver1655]

What size does your pump output have, 1/2" or 3/4"? If it is 1/2" you may save a little on restriction/heat generation, but will not see any improvement on cycle time. However, by changing your return line from the valve body to your tank to 3/4" you will benefit with less resistance/heat generation. If it is 3/4", by all means change both the lines from the pump to the valve and the valve to the reservoir to 3/4". In the big scheme of things changing the valve & lines to the cylinder to 3/4" should cut down on heat generation. However adding an oil cooler with 3/4" ports between the valve & reservoir will do more to shed heat than a new valve & hoses. I added a 20x20" oil cooler & can split when it is in the low 100's Fahrenheit in the shade & the oil stays in the mid 120's. Tremendous change! Found it at a tractor/combine recycling yard for $100.

 

[tilenick]

What size does your pump output have, 1/2" or 3/4"? If it is 1/2" you may save a little on restriction/heat generation, but will not see any improvement on cycle time. However, by changing your return line from the valve body to your tank to 3/4" you will benefit with less resistance/heat generation. If it is 3/4", by all means change both the lines from the pump to the valve and the valve to the reservoir to 3/4". In the big scheme of things changing the valve & lines to the cylinder to 3/4" should cut down on heat generation. However adding an oil cooler with 3/4" ports between the valve & reservoir will do more to shed heat than a new valve & hoses. I added a 20x20" oil cooler & can split when it is in the low 100's Fahrenheit in the shade & the oil stays in the mid 120's. Tremendous change! Found it at a tractor/combine recycling yard for $100.

The pump output is 3/4. The only fittings left that are 1/2 are going to be the work ports. The whole splitter was bushed down to 1/2 as the other pump was weird. Belt driven off the vert shaft 8.5 horse briggs with a max pressure of like 1500 lbs. Maybe 8 gpm. I am outfitting it with an 11 horse side shaft Honda and a 22 gpm pump. I am probably worried over nothing. I still need to get the fab work done then run it and see if it is a problem or not. Thanks

 

[tilenick]

I'd highly recommend getting the bigger valve, you'll be happier with it for sure. I would at least get the auto return as well, it makes a VERY nice difference. Trust me, I know

It is a new-ish valve. I bought it last year and it has the detent on the return. It is a project I will be upgrading over time. I the old valve was not operating properly so I bought one , then the engine blew a seal and I had to re work the engine setup on it. I will be thinking of upgrading the valve with more options after I see if I need anything else major. Thanks.