Excellent, Eric! A 2-stage wedge? It looks like the front snout has about the same angle on it as the back of the wedge. It starts the splitting action and then the back of the wedge eventually takes over when the log starts to give.
I like this idea. Looks like the wedge angle on both the front and the back is between 45 and 55 degrees, but it's a bit hard to tell. Can you get a ballpark measurement on it?
This has got to be superior to anything being sold at the supply shops (like Northern Tool). Note also the taper of the bottom plate that prevents a jam up against the outer edge of the log.
Firewood processors (Timberwolf, Multitec, CordKing) always move the wood through a fixed wedge. They are designed for production. There, it is settled, done!
We also know that well over half the splitters being sold today are made with the wedge moving and the toe plate stationary. That design allows for the easiest swing up from horizontol to vertical in order to accommodate the monster rounds.
I think the search for the perfect splitter wedge may be impossible to find due to many variables such as , fixed wedge ,moving wedge, cylinder size ,and mainly type of wood. Wood that splits easily will often work quicker with a wide or winged wedge especially when mounted on a ram. With stringy wood a narrow fixed wedge often works better where the following block finishes pushing the first.
Looks like the back angle of the wedge that FlxBlx posted is about the same as the entire wedge angle that SawFish posted. Both appear to be just under 50 degrees. The 2-stage approach the FlxBlx shows still seems to have a lot to offer. Both of these wedges look to be an improvement over store-bought offerings.
Mark, et al., I think we have something here. Perhaps the wedge should be designed somewhat in conjunction with the pump. When the quick first stage of the pump cannot get the job done, the second stage comes in and finishes it off (most of the time). The wedge should match that performance. The wider portion of the wedge may really only be needed with the tough stuff, but without it, you are a cooked goose.Even in Elm and Hackberry (elm family) 2nd stage of the pump RARELY kicks in. This was originally used with a single stage pump. This wedge makes a very good combination with the 2 stage pump.
Blue RidgeMark,
The wedge you shown in your post is I believe the wedge used on the small Timberwolf TW P1 splitter. It is designed that way so their 4-way can slip on with reducing the openning between wedge and push plate.
Good advice, Kong. I have been told by (and agree with) many experienced wood splitters that a super sharp wedge is to be avoided. Splitting twisted grain wood proves the point. The sharp wedge cuts reather than splits twisted grain. Working with multi-crotch wood demonstates that again and again.I've read these 4 pages of replys with interest and I notice one thing that I expected to be discussed early that has been overlooked entirely. Are you talking about cutting wood or splitting it? I think a dull wedge is far superior in most woods to a sharp blade. Once the wedge starts to cut rather than split your efficiency drops like a stone. Idealy a dull blade separates the fibers of the wood and the split (as noted in an early reply) preceeds the blade as the wood separates more or less effortlessly. However once the blade cuts across the grain as it will in any twisted grain wood then the only thing that keeps the separation going is the raw power of the splitter. Once again, I suspect the sharpness or dullness of the blade has more to do with this than its angle.
Who knows? I could be right, I could be wrong, 50-50 chance.
My splitter has a one inch thick rather dull fronted wedge. I use a slip on 4 way that Northern tool sells.....it's almost twenty years old....The wedge is also the one sold by Northern Tool twenty years ago. The wedge is rather dull like I was saying, maybe a half inch wide and rounded on it's front from years of use of the slip on 4 way.
Every few years I get the top part of the wedge built up a bit because the 4 way wants to slide up on some pieces and it's rather irritating. I'm ready to get it built up again and this time I think I'm going to have the welder build up the inside of the 4 way a bit and see if that works better.
Does anybody experience their wood blasting off the 4 way at times ? On some even straight grain pine mine will grenade off the end---not all pieces just some.It is just the horizontal wedge that does this.It is 3/4" thick.
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