Starting the splitter build.

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What size cylinder will I need ton wise just personal use?

The bigger cyclinder you go, the slower the speed so keep that in mind if you have the pump already. More GPM start increasing fluid temps so you have to think about cooling and sweep 90 fittings/straight line lay out. 4 inch will do a lot and may keep the speed you are looking for. Highly suggest at least a locking return valve.
 
Depends on what you're splitting, I run a 5" on mine. Probably could get away with a 4" for 70% of my splitting needs.
Some hard wood but mostly popular getting ready to buy my cylinder have any recommendations?
 
Some hard wood but mostly popular getting ready to buy my cylinder have any recommendations?
All I split is hardwood. A little Ash but mostly hedge { Osage Orange} locust and mulberry. My main go to splitter is homemade with a 4X24 with a two inch rod cylinder. I run a 28 GPM two stage pump. I don't feel the need for a five or six inch cylinder. Wedge design is key. Reading the wood is key also. I like the speed with a four inch cylinder and a 28 GPM pump. If I were building today I would get a custom cylinder with a oversize rod for quicker retract. Look a surplus center Lincoln Nebraska for cylinders. Check our stock 9-030-24, 9-12864-24 and a old stock 9-20234. Don't cheap out on the cylinder. Its the heart of the splitter.
 
All I split is hardwood. A little Ash but mostly hedge { Osage Orange} locust and mulberry. My main go to splitter is homemade with a 4X24 with a two inch rod cylinder. I run a 28 GPM two stage pump. I don't feel the need for a five or six inch cylinder. Wedge design is key. Reading the wood is key also. I like the speed with a four inch cylinder and a 28 GPM pump. If I were building today I would get a custom cylinder with a oversize rod for quicker retract. Look a surplus center Lincoln Nebraska for cylinders. Check our stock 9-030-24, 9-12864-24 and a old stock 9-20234. Don't cheap out on the cylinder. Its the heart of the splitter.
Can't agree with either of your assessments. Been running a cheap 5" china no name cylinder and 16 gpm pump for 12 years now. First 8 odd years i was doing 10 cord a year with it, since then I've pretty much been doing all the wood for myself and my old man, which brings me closer to the 20 cord per year mark. Never had the cylinder apart or an issue with the pump. I get everyone's reject trees, big stuff that no one else wants/ can handle. I wouldn't trade a 5" cylinder for a few seconds in speed and the power loss of a 4" cylinder.
 
Poplar doesn't take much to split. 4" would be fine, and give some head room for bigger harder wood.
Head room ? Here’s a pick of beam so far about ready for trailer I hope
 

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Will a fuel tank aluminum work for hydraulic tank ?maybe stupid question but had to ask buying second hand
 
Well got wedge cut in now to try and put an edge on it weld and hopefully ready for hydraulics
 

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If you buy a motor, for the same price Home depot has Lifan motors that come with a 2 year warranty. My 13 hp is a Honda clone. Have fun with the build
 
If you buy a motor, for the same price Home depot has Lifan motors that come with a 2 year warranty. My 13 hp is a Honda clone. Have fun with the build
I was planning on using 5.5 Honda motor I have had I hope enough of power plant if not plan on buying bigger motor thanks for info
 
Well got wedge cut in now to try and put an edge on it weld and hopefully ready for hydraulics
Wedge and clivis welded waiting to make some extra money to get my hydraulic stuff oh welds not welded second time dad said lol
 

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Wedge and clivis welded waiting to make some extra money to get my hydraulic stuff oh welds not welded second time dad said lol
Well got pump but love joy didn’t have set screws hell it didn’t even have holes where one would go waiting on feed back from company but got motor mount welded and motor bolted down here’s a few pics
 

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Seems odd to me. All I have ever gotten have had the set screw threads there. I wouldn't think they would be hardened so if the wrong part was ordered, you "should" be able to drill and tap. Hopefully they will take care of you if their fault.

Do be careful when you get it going as with a high wedge and a thinner box you have, it can/will bend easier than you think. Try not to have the knots at the top. If you see the beam springing on a piece, I'd suggest to stop at that point before giving yourself a bad day.
 
Seems odd to me. All I have ever gotten have had the set screw threads there. I wouldn't think they would be hardened so if the wrong part was ordered, you "should" be able to drill and tap. Hopefully they will take care of you if their fault.

Do be careful when you get it going as with a high wedge and a thinner box you have, it can/will bend easier than you think. Try not to have the knots at the top. If you see the beam springing on a piece, I'd suggest to stop at that point before giving yourself a bad day.
So box you mean push plate?
 
So box you mean push plate?
In my opinion the box beam thickness is pretty thin in wall thickness. I'm running a 1/2" thick wall thickness on the box with 1/2" plates on both sides, running the full length. It will even spring some on a stall. The top plate you will not equal near the strength as steel on the sides of the box beam. Just expressing some real world experience to you. I've repaired others homemade and factory built splitters so I can normally pick up where weak spots are.

I'd highly suggest adding a larger V on the bottom of your Box beam if you see flexing when you start using it. Can be easily done with 2 pieces of flat stock or larger angle iron.
 

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