Logsplitter valve advise RD513CE5A4B1

[montyv]

I finally finished building my Logsplitter today, the valve I used for the split upstream is a (RD513CE5A4B1) and for the loglift downstream I used a (RD513CA5A4B1) valve. I have no problem with the loglift valve, it works exactly as it should.


The thing I am not shore of is the splitter valve, when I pull the handle forward to split It locks in, the ram moves forward splitting the wood no need to hold the handle, once the wood has split, the handle flicks back to neutral but the ram doesn't retract unless I pull & hold the handle back the ram retracts backwards. I would like to know if this is normal for this type of valve, or should the ram retract by its self after splitting the wood, Other than that the spltter has plenty of power & works fine. Here is the info for this valve.


Prince RD513CE5A4B1 Directional control valve, Monoblock, Cast Iron, 1 Spool, 4 Ways , 3 Positions, Tandem, Pressure Release Detent, Spool "Out” Only, Spring Center, Lever Handle, 3000 PSI, 30 Gpm, In/Out: 3/4 NPT Female, Work 3/4 NPT Female.


Any Info would be much appreciated.

 

[djones]

reverse the hoses on the splitter, they're on backwards

 

[djones]

Let me restate that . The hoses going to the splitter cylinder are on the valve backwards.

 

[montyv]

Hi djones I understand what you mean but the part I dont understand is if I swap the hoses around on ports A & B would'nt that make the ram retract when I push the valve lever forward instead of the ram going forward

 

[WoodTick007]

Rotate the valve 180 degrees. . .problem solved!
HoHoHo!

Sent from my LG-D851 using Tapatalk

 

[montyv]

just found a pic of the hose setup before the loglift hoses were installed, hope the file upload works.

 

[montyv]

G-day WoodTick007 turning valves around could be a bit of a problem the way its plumbed with inlet pump hose on far side & power beyond & the return on near side,I will change hoses around on the ports first & see if it solves the problem.
thanks for the tips WoodTick007 & Djones, time to hit the sack now ,nearly 4 in the morning in Aussie Land will get back later hopefully with problem fixed.
Have a good Christmas.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Wondering if the valve is auto cycle, meaning should it advance and retract on its own once activated?

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Love the color! Beautiful looking work.
I understand what your saying. It should split on the pull, detent return on the push of the lever. I don't know, but I'm guessing it may be the wrong valve. Maybe there is a rebuild kit to reverse it.

 

[djones]

Wondering if the valve is auto cycle, meaning should it advance and retract on its own once activated?

Not a good idea to have auto cycling on a splitter valve. You always want one hand on the valve as you have the cylinder going forward. Less chance to lose fingers.

Show a picture of the top of the valve please. Is your return live valve closed as your picture shows ??? Normally open lines have the handle in line with the hose to indicate open condition.

On most all splitters, when the handle is moved towards the rear, it locks into the detent position and releases when the ram bottoms out and pressure kicks loose the detent. If yours is going into detent when pushed forwards then I would have a better look at my plumbing and maybe the detent itself.

Just because an outlet port is in the rear of the valve, that does not mean that it is designed for the rear hose. The machining of the spool valve internally determines where the oil flows to.

 

[djones]

Okay, I looked up your valve online and can conclude that you do not have a wood splitter valve and it will not work as you desire. If you can return to the store you purchased it from and exchange for a splitter valve, you will have the correct functioning valve. Your valve works more like a plow valve in that it will stay in the float position when in detent. You would be better served using a LSR 3060 valve or a Wolverine 30gpm valve if they are available to you.

 

[triptester]

The hoses are reversed the detent should be on the return stroke. The direction the handle moves can be changed by rotating the handle pivot
from bottom to top.The new and original markins on the drawing are reversed

 

[mohick]

you got your hoses plumbed backward !!!!!!!!!

 

[montyv]

you got your hoses plumbed backward !!!!!!!!!

Back on line again you guys are write in saying that my A & B port hoses are crossed over. I sent an email to Splitez
where I purchased the valves from, being cheaper purchasing from the states rather buying here in Australia.
Explaining my situation, they replied Move hydraulic hose from A to B & B to A
If you like the detent to push in, there is 4 cap screws on front of valve, unscrew bracket turn 180 degrees this will change linkage.

Also thanks Triptester for the diagram and everyone else's input, good knowledge goes a long way.
I will give it a go in the next couple of days hoping i got enough play in the two hoses to move them around if not I might be up for a new hose or two.
Also double checked with splitez about that valve & apparently it is a valve used for logsplitters , its one of the valves advertised on their sight.
I will upload a couple more pics. and once I have made the hose change overs I will let you know how I went .
One thing Iam not too sure of is when I undo the 4 cap screws to turn the bracket around 180 degrees is oil going to gush out from the valve.
And also when changing the hoses around, are they going to be under pressure & is there a certain procedure involved.

 

[moondoggie]

Back on line again you guys are write in saying that my A & B port hoses are crossed over. I sent an email to Splitez
where I purchased the valves from, being cheaper purchasing from the states rather buying here in Australia.
Explaining my situation, they replied Move hydraulic hose from A to B & B to A
If you like the detent to push in, there is 4 cap screws on front of valve, unscrew bracket turn 180 degrees this will change linkage.

Also thanks Triptester for the diagram and everyone else's input, good knowledge goes a long way.
I will give it a go in the next couple of days hoping i got enough play in the two hoses to move them around if not I might be up for a new hose or two.
Also double checked with splitez about that valve & apparently it is a valve used for logsplitters , its one of the valves advertised on their sight.
I will upload a couple more pics. and once I have made the hose change overs I will let you know how I went .
One thing Iam not too sure of is when I undo the 4 cap screws to turn the bracket around 180 degrees is oil going to gush out from the valve.
And also when changing the hoses around, are they going to be under pressure & is there a certain procedure involved. View attachment 546071 View attachment 546072 View attachment 546073 View attachment 546074 View attachment 546075

Sweet looking splitter! !

 

[triptester]

With the engine shut off operate the valves to relieve any possible pressure in the system. There should be little to no leakage when rotating the handle bracket. When switching the hoses at the valve you will have some spillage because of the hoses being higher than the valve.
Nice looking setup.

 

[montyv]

Thanks Triptester I wasn't sure how to go about it .A bit more confident already.

 

[montyv]

Finally fixed the valve issue, thanks to some knowledgeable people on this site, I switched hoses between the two ports.
The hose that was from port (A) that went to the front of the cylinder had a bit of slack so there was no problem changing it to port (B).
But the hose that was on port (B) didn't have enough length to stretch it to Port (A) but by screwing in a 45 deg. fitting to the rear of the cylinder,
it was possible to give the hose a little extra length & make it to port (A).
Next was to undo the four cap screws on the front of the valve & turned the linkage bracket 180 degrees, then relocate the pivot point of the valve handle
to the top of the bracket as shown in the pics below as compared to the previous pics where the pivot point was at the bottom.also I just want to add that I used 3/4 hoses for the split, 3/4 hose for the Power beyond from split to the lift valve, 1/2 inch hoses for the lift cylinder & 1 inch hoses for both returns to the tank.
I tried to stay away from sharp bends for the most of the project but I used them on the lift cylinder as I didn't think it would create a great heat issue as the lift would not be used no where near as much as the splitting valve & cylinder.I have also added a needle valve to the lift but have not had the need yet to close the flow rate down as the lift valve works just fine, the lift cylinder is 3 1/2 inch inner diameter, the split cylinder is 4 1/2 inner diameter with a 20 inch stroke.
the pump is a 16 gpm 2 stage, the honda engine is a 8 hp. some might say its a bit under powered but I never looked a gift horse in the mouth when the engine fell on my lap, I guess it proved itself when it split 800mm diameter Red gum.
Again a big thank you to those who contribute their time & knowledge to helping people to reach their goals and therefore to pass that knowledge on into helping others.