looking for 'newer' to me pickup or SUV-questions on your experiences

[kevin j]

LOOKING FOR INFO

OK, not directly wood gear related, although I assume most here have various trucks and ALL here have opinions on same! I figure I will get more response from the working wood haulers here than in the Rides forum.

I am replacing a 95 Isuzu Trooper with a cooked transmission, with either an extended cab pickup or SUV. It is my daily driver, although we have the wife's Saturn for long mile trips. I pull a 5x10 enclosed motorcycle trailer a lot, and they can be long miles. A few times a year short trips with a 1 ton homemade trailer with heavy loads, but at low speeds.

4WD is essential. I prefer the simplest possible, manual floor levers, not electric or vacuum shift. (I'd prefer manual hubs, but those are gone, and it just shows my dinosaur preferences.) Need low range for sure. I don't need to shift on the fly. I want as much front end disconnected as possible when in 2WD.

Looking at 90's up to about 2003 due to price range, and Ford/Chev choices. I don't like the Dodge cab vision, so it is out, although I had an old 76 3/4 extended 4wd for many years.
If pickup, I would go half ton, extended cab/suicide doors (not crew cab) and 6-1/2 foot box at least.
If SUV, I don't really need a full size suburban, but do need some towing, mainly transmission durability. Friend has a 99 Tahoe, 350, with chip modifications for excellant mileage and fair power that looks pretty good for me.


So, after all that, I am looking at:
-Ford pickups, generation 87-91 or 92-97, but good ones are rare here because of rust
-Ford pickups, generation 97-2004
-Don't want the Explorer
-Chev/GMC pickups, generation 88-99
-Chev/GMC pickups, generation 2000-up, but not newest
-Chev Tahoe/Yukon, generation to 99
-Chev Tahoe/Yukon, generation 2000 and up, but not newest
-Maybe the Suburban, but it seems a lot more than I need and more gas than I can afford.

On any used vehicle I would change fuel pumps, filters, belts, fluids, and maybe brakes, but preferably nothing more for a while.
I have wrenched on small to large equipment for almost 50 years, and really, about any newer vehicle is much better built than in 'the good old days'. However, they are getting so complicated that I am helpless on the newer stuff and repairs are really expensive.


Questions:
-What are the known problem areas? Any fatal flaws, with no junkyard parts available, and dealer only parts in high demand?

-Ford and Chev both had their plastic manifold fiascos. How prevalent are they?

-How about transmission reliability?

-What years still had manual 4WD systems as standard, which ones still had as available, and when did they disappear?

-Any teething problems in the first year or two of the newer generations?

-Are there big enough differences in comfort and fuel economy to justify the price jump in the 2000 and up generations? Prices change from 3000-5000 for 99 and older to 6000-10,000 for the 2000 and up, either Ford or Chev.

-Fuel tank sizes or options?

-Any odd wiring issues, or is trailer hookup normal?


Let's not make this a Ford v. Chevy war, or a 'mine was fine' thread or it will become huge, but any actual factual data I would definitely appreciate.

tks,
kevin j
minnesota

 

[stihly dan]

An suv is not a truck. If you go with Chevy 99-01 suicide door watch out for rocker panel rust.

 

[Steve NW WI]

Kevin, I'll stick with what I know, the 88-99 GMs.

-Not sure when the 3rd door became available, don't have a back seat in either of mine. I'm a regular cab guy.

-Shift on the floor 4wd was standard (I think) throughout the series, pushbutton option started somewhere around 95? Weak link there is the thermal actuator for the front axle, works fair at best, crap at worst. There are options for electric (servo) and even a manual cable actuator to get around it. One of mine has a working thermal in it, the other needs one and will get upgraded. IFS front ends don't stand up to tall tires very well, but are solid with stock tires on it.

-Transmissions, most of the 700R4s in the 1/2 tons have been rebuilt by now, early versions were pretty problematic. They're solid if properly rebuilt. Not sure what year the switch was to the 4L60 (electronic version of the 700), but they're pretty good trans.

The older TBI motors are bulletproof, if down on power compared to the newer stuff. The first few years of the Vortec motors (95 or so was 1st year for them) were pretty susceptible to intake gasket failure.

Fuel tanks are 25? gallons for the short (6 1/2) box and 34 gallons with an 8' box. Might be the smaller tank was available in a longbox, but both mine have the 34.

This era of truck is also available with the (pretty anemic) 6.2,6.5,or 6.5T diesels in the half tons, if that interests ya.

 

[blades]

ford 97-2003 f150 4wd 99% are some type of vacuum front hub lock up, most are shift on the fly. if taken care of per manual they generally due not have problems with in the system. replacing the shift on the fly is not hard. there is info on the web about rebuilding it on your own, your time verses dollars. Eng. 4.6l 6cyl, 4.6v8, 5.4 v8, 5.4 is the best choice( also best milage) it is also coupled to the mid range tranny. the 4.6 units got the lightest duty tranny has a life span of about 100k. doesn't matter how you treat it. It will wear out in that time period. Not my opinion, statement from tranny rebuider( they build race and drag strip auto trans)
Super cab issue with window frames from day one they crack, Ford never came up with a fix until 04 when the cab was redesigned similar to 250/350.
I have 186xxx on my 99-150 4.6v8 it has been used/abused ect. overall been happy. problems my unit experienced, heater core ( $30,but got rip out whole dash to replace) rear end clutch pack ($700, dealer labor $700) tranny rebuilt at 140k ( it is the small one)
97-2002 are torsion bar suspension up front leaf in back 03 change to coil springs in front. I have not had any difficulties in the front suspension other than normal ball joint/ tie rod end issues. I have replaced all the coils and plugs twice and a couple of vacume lines that rotted out. Just replaced a rear axle seal couple weeks ago. Still on original exhaust system. Front end is very easy to work on, eng. not to bad considering the way some are wedged in.
For hauling go with load range E tires, the C rangedoesn't cut it and stay away from P rated ones( barely have enough side wall strength to support themselves. There used to be a D range but i never see that listed anymore. I use retreads E rated run about $125 ea. no issues get around 60k a set.

Dodge same old issues, parts in front end too small, tranny problems, blow a turbo on the Diesel big bucks, the ball joints on my 150 are twice the size of the dodge units. Hope this helps. Chris

 

[BrokenToys]

The older TBI motors are bulletproof, if down on power compared to the newer stuff. The first few years of the Vortec motors (95 or so was 1st year for them) were pretty susceptible to intake gasket failure.

My 91 Chevy had the Vortec .. God I miss that truck. I put it through a telephone pole avoiding a headon from a drunk driver. At the time it had about 640k miles on it.

 

[zogger]

Go on vacation, drive down to way below the "salt on the road" belt. You'll get spoiled, and won't want a used yankee rust brand vehicle ever again. What you spend on vacation you'll save on not having an eat up truck, and you can look older in vehicles and they are still in relatively good shape if you shop around.

The best deals you'll find is typically like some guys project truck they have really worked on, then they need to sell, lost their job, joining the army, getting married, got a kid on the way so they need a passenger sedan, etc.

 

[Steve NW WI]

My 91 Chevy had the Vortec .. God I miss that truck. I put it through a telephone pole avoiding a headon from a drunk driver. At the time it had about 640k miles on it.

I was speaking mostly of the Vortec V-8s, I'd forgotten about the 4.3 V-6 (the original "Vortec"), which is a good motor but pretty weak for towing. The one I owned was in a S-10 Blazer, went well over 200,000 before the body rotted away around it.

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

Go on vacation, drive down to way below the "salt on the road" belt. You'll get spoiled, and won't want a used yankee rust brand vehicle ever again. What you spend on vacation you'll save on not having an eat up truck, and you can look older in vehicles and they are still in relatively good shape if you shop around.

The best deals you'll find is typically like some guys project truck they have really worked on, then they need to sell, lost their job, joining the army, getting married, got a kid on the way so they need a passenger sedan, etc.

How far south does one have to go to get out of the salt?!!

OP...Kevin....I take it you don't need to use my code reader now....

 

[zogger]

How far south does one have to go to get out of the salt?!!

OP...Kevin....I take it you don't need to use my code reader now....

--right about where I am in north georgia and below. Tennessee they salt the roads and they get a lot more snow.. Right immediately below down here in GA, no salt. when it snows, the deranged lunatics either try to drive and go in the ditch and drive up everyone's insurance, or smart guys like me stay home until it melts in like one day. there are no snow tires here, and everyone runs mudders on their trucks and they just suck on snow and ice. Dumb guys go in the ditch a lot here because they got them FOUR wheel drive....slide right in the ditch, funny as heck. And the passenger cars all geared high because you have to be able to go 150 MPH are even worse.

but..the ones that don't go in the ditch..no rust! Or very little.

I would imagine there are even less rusty vehicles out west where it is less humid and doesn't rain near as much. I know I would use craigslist and search different areas, atlanta, vegas (I bet that's a good one), birmingham, orlando, etc. Nothing right on the coast, salt air, you get rust, but any other inland southern area. DEEP south and out west border states.

Have a cousin used to make a decent living going to old retired fart areas in central florida, picking up no rust creampuffs, two at a time, drive one, tow the other back up to detroit.

Oh we have nice roads, too, no frost heaves or chuckholes everywhere.

They still work on the roads all the time for some reason, I think (I would guess most folks down here think as well) it is for political fatcat connected like brother in laws to make money. They will tear up what looks to be a perfectly good road, rebuild it, then go do it again some place else.

But the used vehicles are nice. If I had lots mo money I would go into that biz, just finding deals and selling them up north.

 

[stumpy75]

Have you looked at a Ford Explorer SportTrac? Explorer front with a 4' bed. I tow an RV with it that weighs ~3900lbs. Can carry ~ 1500lbs in the bed. Not a full-sized truck by any means, but a nice multi-use vehicle. Electronic 4x4 shifter though.

They were made from 2001 to 2010, with an update in 2007. The 2001 - 2006 ones had a 4.0l V6 only. A V8 was available after the update.

Maybe something to look into...

 

[Dan_IN_MN]

--..... there are no snow tires here, and everyone runs mudders on their trucks and they just suck on snow and ice. Dumb guys go in the ditch a lot here because they got them FOUR wheel drive....slide right in the ditch, funny ........

Four wheel drive = four wheel slide!

It would be fun to be done there when it does snow and show them how a guy drives that's grown up with driving on snow packed roads and lakes.

 

[Oldtimer]

The truck that will do you the best, according to what you want, is a 2000-2003 F250 Super Duty.
Manual hubs, manual shift 4 wheel drive, rugged, and if you go south to Texas you'll find them with no rust to speak of.

1999 Ford F250

 

[giXXer]

The truck that will do you the best, according to what you want, is a 2000-2003 F250 Super Duty.
Manual hubs, manual shift 4 wheel drive, rugged, and if you go south to Texas you'll find them with no rust to speak of.

1999 Ford F250

Couldn't agree more. I had the '99 super duty with a 7.3 diesel and put 300,000 miles without ever touching the engine or transmission. I towed, plowed, and worked that truck hard! Auto vacuum lock hubs were available, but mine didn't have that, it was a manual linkage floor shift. One thing to keep in mind, not all trucks with a 4X4 floor shift use a manual linkage, some are vacuum lock. Two problems that I see for the OP is fuel economy and the rough ride since he mentioned using it as a daily driver. I also think a Super Duty might be "overkill" for the little motorcycle trailer.

Steve is correct, 95 was a changeover year for GM. I'm pretty confident that was the first year of the 4L60E transmission (also different dash, etc.) and 1996 was the first year for the 5.7 vortec. I have owned 4 GM 4X4's between the years of 95-99 and put transmissions in all of them after 75,000 to 115,000 miles. All were 4L60's. I believe the later versions have been updated and many of the bugs have been worked out so I would shoot for a truck that has already had the tranny replaced or get a newer truck than the 96-97. In the late 80's GM made a lighter duty 2500. It came with a little heavier springs, larger rear end, but still used the 700R4 and TBI 5.7. I like that truck a lot (if you can find a solid one that hasn't been worked to death) because it's kind of a hybrid between 1/2 & 3/4 ton and can be picked up relatively inexpensively. The transmission is a 1/2 ton trans, but those can now be built very stout & inexpensively as well. One truck that hasn't been mentioned yet is a Toyota. While it isn't the truck (any Toyo) for me, it might fit the OP's need well. I know that just about every Toyo owner swears by them.

 

[Oldtimer]

I saw that he said "1/2 ton" was his target, but I never met a man who regretted buying a 3/4 ton after he had it for a few weeks. Willing to bet the OP will find it useful as a shirt pocket.
I own the 7.3 in an F550 4x4...and it's dead rock solid. I did replace the transmission because the front pump seal leaked. But it still shifted fine.
The 7.3 has a very very loyal following, and with good reason. Engines do not come any better.

 

[cnice_37]

Willing to bet the OP will find it useful as a shirt pocket.

Do tell more about these new fancy "shirt pockets"... :msp_tongue:

 

[Oldtimer]

Do tell more about these new fancy "shirt pockets"... :msp_tongue:

Well, heck, they are the greatest thing since internet por nography! I use my shirt pocket to carry a card with the number for the Dolmar hotline. 1-800-DEAD-SAW. Wore out 3 pockets so far!

 

[giXXer]

I saw that he said "1/2 ton" was his target, but I never met a man who regretted buying a 3/4 ton after he had it for a few weeks. Willing to bet the OP will find it useful as a shirt pocket.
I own the 7.3 in an F550 4x4...and it's dead rock solid. I did replace the transmission because the front pump seal leaked. But it still shifted fine.
The 7.3 has a very very loyal following, and with good reason. Engines do not come any better.

After buying my Dodge I often joke with friends saying I would buy another 99 Powerstroke Super Duty if I could get one brand new. At 300,000 mine needed some work so I couldn't rely on it for plowing any longer. The oil pan was getting soft, it finally needed glow plugs (which I'm sure would be stuck in the heads), torque converter had been acting up for about 75,000 miles, and a host of other issues. Still miss it though.

 

[stihly dan]

Great trucks the 350 7.3. Evan better with a rebuilt trainy and a programmer. Watch out for oil pan rust. ( gone thru 2 in 94,000 mi) And rear wheel well rust.

 

[blades]

If you can find one 97 F250, not a super duty more like a heavy 1/2 ton, used the same body as the f150 but the heavier trany and axels under. prior to that apx 97 date ford called them a 5/8 or heavy 1/2 ton. still a torsion bar front end. like some else mentioned floor shift for 4x4 or dash dial some were a manual linkage. I have 99 f350 v10 manual 4x4 manual hubs solid truck but hell on fuel. I have had 6.9 and 7.3 ford Diesels. 6.9 was an 85 f350 work truck plow truck sent it down the rd. in 06 frame was giving up, body long gone. 6.9 was about the last of the non-emmsion units. 3 headaches with the 7.3 ( still a good rig though) is the turbo and the wiring for the injectors is placed in the head gasket, yep oil pan rot inside to outside. the 2, 6 liter desiels after the 7.3 i would not bother with. Although the guys over on the desiel forum have worked out most of the bugs. most of the problems caused by emission control garbage, that and the proverbial asian supplied electronic parts failure ( not limited to ford - across the board)

 

[BrokenToys]

I was speaking mostly of the Vortec V-8s, I'd forgotten about the 4.3 V-6 (the original "Vortec"), which is a good motor but pretty weak for towing. The one I owned was in a S-10 Blazer, went well over 200,000 before the body rotted away around it.

Mine was in a short bed full side 1500; towing wasn't that bad actually-it could tow my waterlogged duck blind across the beach pretty well. But mostly it was great for my job which at the time I was averaging 1200-1500 miles driven a week.

I have to agree with the last few posts; myself being a convert over to a 3/4 Ton 1997 Dodge 2500. I am happy with the truck and really can not complain about anything but the AC not working [which I heard those years are notorious for Dodge with the Evaporators being absolute crap]. I was in the market for a 1/2 ton truck three years ago to replace my old 83 dodge with the slant 6 that the frame rotted out of..and came across a 2500 in the right price range I was looking for [2-4k dollars] and can't say I regret it.