Looking for the strongest glue ever

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damato333

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I have an old hay conveyor that has 55 chain on it. I use it for firewood but most of the time I'm replacing the links. I am going to be putting bearings and rollers on it. I got a FREE belt from the quarry that I want to use. Is there anything better than free. The problem that I can see right now is the thing (alligator lacing?) that I need to attach the belt to each other looks like it would cost over $100. I was thinking of gluing a piece of the belt on the top and bottom of where each end meets. I'm not sure if this would work. Anyone know of glue that will never come off. It would need to be really strong and it need to be UV protected, waterproof, and really strong.
 
I thought about bolting it together but I was worried that the bolts would get ripped out of the belt. I'm sick of replacing the links on it. I only get a week of splitting out of it and I break another link.
 
Just googled conveyor belt fastners and got Murdock Industries/Flexco Hinged Bolt fastners. I looked at a bunch of stuff, but these looked the easiest and I think they were $25 for a box of 25. They had the stuff that locks togeter like fingers lacing but it looked like it might take a special tool to install, Joe.
 
3M™ Marine Fast Cure 5200

The absolute strongest adhesive i have ever used is: 3M™ Marine Fast Cure 5200. Just be sure you do not have do break the bond again after curing. Because that's not going to happen. Google the stuff and judge for your self.

Good luck to you

Motorsen
 
Use stainless pan head machine screws with fender washer

Put the heads to the bottom of the belt and nuts to the top, trim the screw flush with the nut. The rounded heads won't snag on the rollers and the washers will keep it from pulling through. You can also put a layer of the 5200 between the belts before you bolt it together.
 
I bought a couple of conveyors to use for my wood processor a couple of wks ago. Belt all rotten, but got 5 rolls of extra belt to go with the conveyors. Looking for a lesson on how to splice the new belts, I found several youtube videos of how its done. The ones that use glue required removing a the outer layer of the belt and replaceing with what looks like a tire patch and using a vulcanizing cement to hold it together. You will have to do a search to see what I am talking about, I didnt save any links.

The little finger link kits I havnt found a source for yet. TSC sells a kit for 10in baler belt for $26, but the special tool to do the crimping with is $150. The belting on my conveyor isnt any heavier than the baler belting and this kit would probably work, but $175 just to try it out seems a little high if it dont work.
 
you guys have any gravel/sand pits (processing plants)? if so call em up and see if they would splice it for you...
 
Use to be that you could get the end lacing that you could just hammer closed, mesh the to ends together and slide the pin in. I have a belting company on the other end of my shop building. I will ask on Mon. They have a hand crank unit for installing the lacing on some types of belts others are lapped together and they use a type of contact cement. Still others are heat fused. All depends on the material of the belts and application.
 
After doing a google search, there are some references to making an endless belt, doing it properly for high speed belting is quite a process, looks almost like an art to make it seamless. I know that your belt will be running slower than most, but you don't want to have to deal with this belt every day either. Hopefully someone with experience will advise you further on gluing. I have no experience with gluing, but do have a very little with belt splices and bolting. I'm guessing that belt from the quarry is pretty thick. On grain elevator legs, the belt is usually spliced together by bolting overlapping ends together, but they go around a large radius at each end, rather than the tight turn on your old portable elevator, but it will not be turning as fast either.

Alligator or clipper style connections would be easiest, and you should be able to find someone to splice it together for not a whole lot more than the cost of the splice.

If you choose to bolt it together, overlap the belt quite a bit, and as suggested by others, use a smooth headed bolt on the inside, the nuts on the outside. There are bolts made for this, a google search should find a supplier.

I'll check with my in-laws this afternoon, as they have done this sort of thing for their mill conveyors, and should be familiar with quarry belts.
 
My brother and nephew in E Kentucky vulcanize conveyor belts together for a living. They peel the plies of the belt apart in a staggered fashion so the splices aren't all in the same spot, add glue and some other filler to each layer, bolt a cooker on top and bottom and then heat it to vulcanize it all together.

Not sure what that glue is called that they use, but it is strong stuff. They also use that same glue to resurface the drive pulley's on the conveyors.

Ted
 
Years ago I use to work in a conveyor factory. The best way is to vulcaize it as mentioned above. It works best to make your splice angled as well. You just peel back the layers . each layer will be peeled back at a different distance and cut off. Remember that the other end will be cut just the opposite. This means that one end you will be cutting off the top parts of the bely and the other end you will be cutting off the bottom layers.

Most farm stores will carry belt splicing supplies as farmers use this stuff all the time on balers combines, and stuff.
 
I would highly recommend the flexco alligator bolt on. I've had experience using one on a Vermeer trencher that was capable of holding about a yard and a half of spoil dirt. If the conveyor belt splice is not worth $100 to your production operation, you might try loading by hand for a bit and then re-evaluate its worth.
 

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