Looking for users of Dremel type chain sharpeners

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I'm an old vet with bad hands, folks, so, considering the pile we've collected over the past 16 or so years, a machine is pretty much a requirement. As some of the chains in the pile have been rocked out in our glacial till, a bench grinder may be the way to go.

I get on the interwebs, from time to time, to read up on bench type sharpeners and it would really seem that the older precision sharpeners -- i.e., Silvey and Simington -- are no longer made, so it's pretty much a give it to the guys you once fought against (Asian) stuff now. This thread started out with a discussion about Dremel-type handheld grinders, but I'm open to read about bench grinders as well.

Once again, thank you kindly for your time fellas 🤠
If you have a whole box of these why not just send them to somone who has a Franzen sharpening machine? I thought that there was someone on this forum who started a business doing this?
 
I've used a dremel with a stone. It's not my favorite, but I'd use a dremel before I'd use a bench grinder just to keep from overheating the cutter. For .325 chain I normally file it, but on 3/8 and 404 I use a Timberline and really like it. I normally chuck the cutter in a cordless drill which helps move things along pretty quick.
 
I'm an old vet with bad hands, folks, so, considering the pile we've collected over the past 16 or so years, a machine is pretty much a requirement. As some of the chains in the pile have been rocked out in our glacial till, a bench grinder may be the way to go.

I get on the interwebs, from time to time, to read up on bench type sharpeners and it would really seem that the older precision sharpeners -- i.e., Silvey and Simington -- are no longer made, so it's pretty much a give it to the guys you once fought against (Asian) stuff now. This thread started out with a discussion about Dremel-type handheld grinders, but I'm open to read about bench grinders as well.

Once again, thank you kindly for your time fellas 🤠
You can buy a Stihl and give it to the germans…
 
I was just watching this video showing Pete in The Great White North using his Princess Auto "Dremel Type" chain sharpener. Considering that we now have a 16-year old pile of used chain in our shop -- as well as the price of new chain -- I believe that it's time to find an efficient way to both sharpen chain and restore our rocked-out chain.

As Pete seems very pleased with his Princess Auto Dremel Clone sharpener, I was hoping to find out a few things about this type of sharpener. First, we do own a couple of Dremel tools, so I'm looking for recommendations on which type of attachment works well. I'm also interested in learning more about the sharpening bits themselves. Is there a type to avoid and, just as importantly, is there a preferred brand and/or type?

As we've never had an electric sharpener of any stamp, I'd love to read anything helpful about them, in general. For instance, if Dremel isn't the way to go, I'd love to learn a better way.

Thank you kindly for your time.
The OEM kit works best for me.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-...gN8XUj3QwzybOZdEVBwaAs-REALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
But the stihl USG/HOS is still the king. The oregon one is cool too, but whatever you do don't get the s@itcago electric chain grinder.
 
I was just watching this video showing Pete in The Great White North using his Princess Auto "Dremel Type" chain sharpener. Considering that we now have a 16-year old pile of used chain in our shop -- as well as the price of new chain -- I believe that it's time to find an efficient way to both sharpen chain and restore our rocked-out chain.

As Pete seems very pleased with his Princess Auto Dremel Clone sharpener, I was hoping to find out a few things about this type of sharpener. First, we do own a couple of Dremel tools, so I'm looking for recommendations on which type of attachment works well. I'm also interested in learning more about the sharpening bits themselves. Is there a type to avoid and, just as importantly, is there a preferred brand and/or type?

As we've never had an electric sharpener of any stamp, I'd love to read anything helpful about them, in general. For instance, if Dremel isn't the way to go, I'd love to learn a better way.

Thank you kindly for your time.
I sharpen saws for chainsaw disaster relief chainsaw teams. When I began I only sharpened by hand but because of arthritis I began to use the Dremel type sharpeners. I burn up a 12 volt Oregon in one day. I’ve been using a harbor freight 110 volt. I quit using the Stijl grinding stones.They wear out to fast. I buy cheep diamond cutters of eBay. I only touch up chains this way. If they hit nails or wire or rocks I install a sharp chain. I take these dulled chains home and sharpen them on a Tecomec grinder.
 
I was just watching this video showing Pete in The Great White North using his Princess Auto "Dremel Type" chain sharpener. Considering that we now have a 16-year old pile of used chain in our shop -- as well as the price of new chain -- I believe that it's time to find an efficient way to both sharpen chain and restore our rocked-out chain.

As Pete seems very pleased with his Princess Auto Dremel Clone sharpener, I was hoping to find out a few things about this type of sharpener. First, we do own a couple of Dremel tools, so I'm looking for recommendations on which type of attachment works well. I'm also interested in learning more about the sharpening bits themselves. Is there a type to avoid and, just as importantly, is there a preferred brand and/or type?

As we've never had an electric sharpener of any stamp, I'd love to read anything helpful about them, in general. For instance, if Dremel isn't the way to go, I'd love to learn a better way.

Thank you kindly for your time.
Owned everything but a square grinder but that is possible on some round machines now. Tools like tiny spinning stones and files are for touch up not messed up. Buy a used 5" grinder and learn how to use one properly. You get what you pay for. I finally bought a new CBN wheel for one of my three bench grinders. Still use a file in the field when appropriate.

One grinder is an old 399 Belsaw found at a yard sale, complete, barley use 100 bucks over a decade ago. Have another cheapo and the Chicago 4" junk plastic one. Sold all the rest and bought a Techomec, older vice model, with the auto grab. Jolly Star type. It could use a vice update but not needed. The new Style Oregon grinder, same same, has a better chain feed roller with a more secure clamp. Bolts right on all the older models. These are now made in China I've heard not in Europe anymore. Oregon sourced their grinders from the same Italian factory years ago as Techomec built.

Oregon stones last longer than most brands. Molemab ain't bad either. Go for course stones to work mashed cutters or a new CBN wheel. White stones are a no go imho. Color determines the grit. Dress it often and use wax on the wheel. Flip it also. Find the center point and make sure you mark the wheel where it hangs in place when loosened so it runs true when you do flip it. None are self centering imo. They all have a bit of play in the set hole.

Upgrading my built in light to an LED needs to happen. I wear a headline during sharpening most times.

Pro tip:
Sharp cutters do not reflect light off of the cutting edge. Anything that do are dull, fact.
 
I sharpen saws for chainsaw disaster relief chainsaw teams. When I began I only sharpened by hand but because of arthritis I began to use the Dremel type sharpeners. I burn up a 12 volt Oregon in one day. I’ve been using a harbor freight 110 volt. I quit using the Stijl grinding stones.They wear out to fast. I buy cheep diamond cutters of eBay. I only touch up chains this way. If they hit nails or wire or rocks I install a sharp chain. I take these dulled chains home and sharpen them on a Tecomec grinder.
Have you considered using a generator or inverter and battery to power a bench grinder?

The 5 trips I've been on so far, there wasn't a ton of cutting. Lots of trees down, but we only cut enough to allow a mini or a track loader to pick them up and haul them out. 3 tanks of fuel would last all day. So long as the bar stays out of the dirt and it doesn't get rocked, you can go almost all day. The chains are definitely dull at the end of the day, but they sharpen up pretty easy. A dremel would make quick work of them, but if you have a crew it would probably be better to swap chains and spend a few hrs the next day at the bench running through all of them.

Just a thought.
 
The OEM kit works best for me.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-...gN8XUj3QwzybOZdEVBwaAs-REALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
But the stihl USG/HOS is still the king. The oregon one is cool too, but whatever you do don't get the s@itcago electric chain grinder.
@Mr.Metsä ..... I saw the photo (shown below) at the HD site you linked me to. My question about this Dremel attachment kit is simply whether the damned thing works or not? I can't tell you how many gimmicky things we've spent our hard-earned on that turned out to be Chinese garbage bin filler. My second question is to clarify what the "Stihl USG/HOS" is? I assume it's the same bench grinder used by Stihl dealers? Thank you very much for the post! :)

Screen Shot 2023-07-14 at 3.42.39 PM.png
 
Owned everything but a square grinder but that is possible on some round machines now. Tools like tiny spinning stones and files are for touch up not messed up. Buy a used 5" grinder and learn how to use one properly. You get what you pay for. I finally bought a new CBN wheel for one of my three bench grinders. Still use a file in the field when appropriate.

One grinder is an old 399 Belsaw found at a yard sale, complete, barley use 100 bucks over a decade ago. Have another cheapo and the Chicago 4" junk plastic one. Sold all the rest and bought a Techomec, older vice model, with the auto grab. Jolly Star type. It could use a vice update but not needed. The new Style Oregon grinder, same same, has a better chain feed roller with a more secure clamp. Bolts right on all the older models. These are now made in China I've heard not in Europe anymore. Oregon sourced their grinders from the same Italian factory years ago as Techomec built.

Oregon stones last longer than most brands. Molemab ain't bad either. Go for course stones to work mashed cutters or a new CBN wheel. White stones are a no go imho. Color determines the grit. Dress it often and use wax on the wheel. Flip it also. Find the center point and make sure you mark the wheel where it hangs in place when loosened so it runs true when you do flip it. None are self centering imo. They all have a bit of play in the set hole.

Upgrading my built in light to an LED needs to happen. I wear a headline during sharpening most times.

Pro tip:
Sharp cutters do not reflect light off of the cutting edge. Anything that do are dull, fact.

@Lightning Performance ..... Here's the grinder made for Oregon (shown below). The fact that it shows the Italian flag at the bottom-right leads one to believe that the grinder is made there? The Oregon part number is 620-120 and they're using the phrase "...automatic hydraulic chain clamping system..." to describe its clamping function. Do you think this is anything like the old Tecomec auto grab grinder you mentioned (above)? Thank you kindly for the informative post!

Screen Shot 2023-07-14 at 3.55.06 PM.png
 
@Lightning Performance ..... Here's the grinder made for Oregon (shown below). The fact that it shows the Italian flag at the bottom-right leads one to believe that the grinder is made there? The Oregon part number is 620-120 and they're using the phrase "...automatic hydraulic chain clamping system..." to describe its clamping function. Do you think this is anything like the old Tecomec auto grab grinder you mentioned (above)? Thank you kindly for the informative post!

View attachment 1097315
Exactly and it has the updated vice on it. It is the fastest grinder I’ve ever used on saw chain. Bet it costs well over 400 now in greenbacks.

Good to know they still have quality ones available. After more digging it appears they might be using China made casting and motors but I can not confirm any of that. No real proof unless you actually buy an new stock unit from the factory. Mine is over a decade old I do believe and was low hours. Did a trade of labor for it. Second owner now. Guy I sell ported saws to was the first owner. It takes about two hours to get hot. It's not too bad and runs smooth.
 
@Lightning Performance ..... Here's the grinder made for Oregon (shown below). The fact that it shows the Italian flag at the bottom-right leads one to believe that the grinder is made there? The Oregon part number is 620-120 and they're using the phrase "...automatic hydraulic chain clamping system..." to describe its clamping function. Do you think this is anything like the old Tecomec auto grab grinder you mentioned (above)? Thank you kindly for the informative post!

View attachment 1097315
Oregon grinders are all made by Tecomec.

An Oregon 620 is a rebadged Tecomec super jolly
 
FIL has one, I do not care for them, many of the stones will reduce in size as they wear, it also has a tendency to burn the tooth, if you overheat the tooth it loses its temper ans dulls more easily. These are aimed at people who don’t know how to file, and don’t want to buy a proper grinder. All it does is allow them to screw up a chain faster and more effectively. Save your money and buy a real grinder. Even a Timbertuff knockoff or similar is worlds better than one of these.
Yeah, I would never use stones because of the wear issue changing the diameter of the cut. I always use diamond grinding cutters, because the cutters cut to the proper diameter until all the abrasive has been worn off. They do an excellent job.
 
@Mr.Metsä ..... I saw the photo (shown below) at the HD site you linked me to. My question about this Dremel attachment kit is simply whether the damned thing works or not? I can't tell you how many gimmicky things we've spent our hard-earned on that turned out to be Chinese garbage bin filler. My second question is to clarify what the "Stihl USG/HOS" is? I assume it's the same bench grinder used by Stihl dealers? Thank you very much for the post! :)

View attachment 1097307
I like it for repairing major damage but all other times I use files.
 
Have you considered using a generator or inverter and battery to power a bench grinder?

The 5 trips I've been on so far, there wasn't a ton of cutting. Lots of trees down, but we only cut enough to allow a mini or a track loader to pick them up and haul them out. 3 tanks of fuel would last all day. So long as the bar stays out of the dirt and it doesn't get rocked, you can go almost all day. The chains are definitely dull at the end of the day, but they sharpen up pretty easy. A dremel would make quick work of them, but if you have a crew it would probably be better to swap chains and spend a few hrs the next day at the bench running through all of them.

Just a thought.

If you use an inverter connected to a battery, make sure it's pure sine wave. A cheap one will fry electric motors. I lost a dremel to one.
 
Man, after making my last chain grinder post to this thread, I found discussions [on another forum] relating to converting round chain to square that are really blowing my mind! I have thought about this in the past, but I didn't know that folks were actually getting positive results doing it!?! o_O
 
I just free hand with a dremel and free hand with a file on the mtn. Never invested in more than that

Nothing special just feel when its right. I do have a couple file depth plates from oregon and west coast saw to set rakers.
 
Have you considered using a generator or inverter and battery to power a bench grinder?

The 5 trips I've been on so far, there wasn't a ton of cutting. Lots of trees down, but we only cut enough to allow a mini or a track loader to pick them up and haul them out. 3 tanks of fuel would last all day. So long as the bar stays out of the dirt and it doesn't get rocked, you can go almost all day. The chains are definitely dull at the end of the day, but they sharpen up pretty easy. A dremel would make quick work of them, but if you have a crew it would probably be better to swap chains and spend a few hrs the next day at the bench running through all of them.

Just a thought.
I've had as many as 10 or 12 men cutting. I coach them to swap saws as soon as they detect the saw isn't cutting as well as it did to start with. I also ask them not to put down pressure on the bar. If you have to put pressure on it, it needs sharpened. I think the whole town of Jacksonville is built on a huge hog farm. Every tree was full of wire or nails, some were 10' up the tree and 10" deep. There was two crews cutting and the neighbors were bringing their saws for me to repair. After that job I began to consider using a the Stihl grinder. I burned it up on the next job. I tried a battery operated Dremel but the battery didn't last very long. We have a generator on the trailer now so I use my old Harbor Freight pencil grinder. I have two Tecomic bench grinders. One setup to sharpen the teeth and the other to take down the gauges. On the last day I try to have sharp chains on all the saws and the clutch and covers cleaned out. I dump the gas out of the tanks and run them until they die. I take home saws that need work and chains that are rocked or nailed. It's just too hectic to use a bench grinder in the field. I like to take my time when I'm sharpening with a bench grinder. "Tip" I have a tupperware dish with a lid filled with "Awesum"cleaner to clean the chains.
 
I sharpen saws for chainsaw disaster relief chainsaw teams. When I began I only sharpened by hand but because of arthritis I began to use the Dremel type sharpeners. I burn up a 12 volt Oregon in one day. I’ve been using a harbor freight 110 volt. I quit using the Stijl grinding stones.They wear out to fast. I buy cheep diamond cutters of eBay. I only touch up chains this way. If they hit nails or wire or rocks I install a sharp chain. I take these dulled chains home and sharpen them on a Tecomec grinder.
Complete answer. Direct and informative. Clearly a veteran woodsman. Well said ADR!
 

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