Mac 10-10a chain break handle issue

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tom maslar

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Hey guys, new member, recently caught the McCulloch chainsaw virus. I've got 2 10-10a's, a 250 and a little 310 that actually makes me money. I found that one at the curb and after fixing it up and learning to square grind, I caught the bug. I'm working on a 10-10a with 150 compression. It was shipped across country and got banged up bad because the seller basically just put the saw in a bag, dropped it in a box and laid the blade next to it. The saw arrived with four inches of bar poking out of a Swiss cheese box. I'm in the process of dismantling it to paint it. I've read krylon 'sun yellow' is the paint to use, so, thats what I'm using. My question is the flat head screw on the side of the chain break lever is frozen on real good. I used snap on, perfect fit screwdriver and it's eating the screw. I'm afraid to use heat and I don't know what to expect with the spring assembly in there. Any ideas on getting it off? What can I expect on removal? Is sun yellow a good choice?
 
Post your questions in the McCulloch thread, you will get more responses there.

Rustoleum Sunburst Yellow is a good match for the later PM model saws but is darker than the older McCulloch yellow. Some John Deere yellow or safety yellow paints are closer to the older McCulloch saws.

I suspect there is a problem with teminology as there are no flat head screws on the brake assembly. If you are referring to the 10-24 pan head screw that holds the brake handle to the pivot try a handheld impact driver.

20220801_080047.jpg

Pay attention to how the spring engages the brake handle and the latch as you will have to get those back together in order for the brake to operate.

Mark
 
Post your questions in the McCulloch thread, you will get more responses there.

Rustoleum Sunburst Yellow is a good match for the later PM model saws but is darker than the older McCulloch yellow. Some John Deere yellow or safety yellow paints are closer to the older McCulloch saws.

I suspect there is a problem with teminology as there are no flat head screws on the brake assembly. If you are referring to the 10-24 pan head screw that holds the brake handle to the pivot try a handheld impact driver.

View attachment 1082079

Pay attention to how the spring engages the brake handle and the latch as you will have to get those back together in order for the brake to operate.

Mark
Post your questions in the McCulloch thread, you will get more responses there.

Rustoleum Sunburst Yellow is a good match for the later PM model saws but is darker than the older McCulloch yellow. Some John Deere yellow or safety yellow paints are closer to the older McCulloch saws.

I suspect there is a problem with teminology as there are no flat head screws on the brake assembly. If you are referring to the 10-24 pan head screw that holds the brake handle to the pivot try a handheld impact driver.

View attachment 1082079

Pay attention to how the spring engages the brake handle and the latch as you will have to get those back together in order for the brake to operate.

Mark
Slotted Pan head screw. I'm 56 and I learned something new today. I've been calling slotted screws--"flat heads" my whole adult life. That's bad 😞 I'm gonna brush up on that. Your reply was extremely helpful to me. I just ordered an impact driver on Amazon. I have a big clunky one that I never use. Your picture showed me that there are much better ones available.
 
Post your questions in the McCulloch thread, you will get more responses there.

Rustoleum Sunburst Yellow is a good match for the later PM model saws but is darker than the older McCulloch yellow. Some John Deere yellow or safety yellow paints are closer to the older McCulloch saws.

I suspect there is a problem with teminology as there are no flat head screws on the brake assembly. If you are referring to the 10-24 pan head screw that holds the brake handle to the pivot try a handheld impact driver.

View attachment 1082079

Pay attention to how the spring engages the brake handle and the latch as you will have to get those back together in order for the brake to operate.

Mark
Having trouble finding a forum Index, to post on a McCulloch forum, as you suggested. I'm not too savvy with the interwebs--sorry.
 
I've got a 310 I use to make money and it works better than new saws I own. I have a 250. It's pretty but on revs to 6,000 rpm so it's just for showing off when we have a campfire. I have two 10-10A's. One of them has 150 compression. The other one probably has a compressed head gasket because it runs like it has a port job. I call it the rooster--because of the rooster tail of chips it leaves in it's wake after a fresh square filing. I put a sticker on it that says ain't found a way to kill me yet, with a rooster silhouette in the middle. It's a small sticker--1.5", but it conveys the memo. Those 10-10s were ahead of their time. I'd say they are a perfect saw with insane power just bare bones. First time I ran one my smile tried to knock my ears off. That sound and performance is just fantastic.😍
 

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