Mag rot Repair

[Mad Professor]

I've used a brass drift and it never works. Soaking them in acetone for a week should remove enough of the wood cell to free it up ifn you really need that tip to be in great shape for the long haul.

It's not wood. It's polymerized Stihl bio-bar oil. I soaked the tip in most every solvent you could think of.

 

[Pioneer]

I've repaired mag rot with west 205 resin and slow hardener mixed with fiberglass flox. Really tough industrial strength stuff originally developed for wood working.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I've repaired mag rot with west 205 resin and slow hardener mixed with fiberglass flox. Really tough industrial strength stuff originally developed for wood working.

Yep west systems has a good name in the marine industry.

 

[thenne1713]

It's nasty stuff (Stihl Bio-). I used it in my 066 when milling, so I could use the sawdust for mulch, and the saw sat ~ 1 year.

All the residue polymerized, it was hard to even scrape it off, and it took the paint with it, some spots the case was starting to rot underneath. It froze the tip up on the bar too. No solvent seemed to dissolve it. I didn't have any chlorinated solvents like dichloromethane or trichloroethane. Acetone, alcohols, gas, diesel, engine cleaner, carb cleaner would not touch it.

Never again........

Bio? How about soap/ water? SIMPLE GREEN?

 

[Mad Professor]

Bio? How about soap/ water? SIMPLE GREEN?

You don't understand. Did you read all the solvents I tried? Soapy water takes of the oil and sawdust with a stiff parts brush, that's about it.

 

[Old2stroke]

I've repaired mag rot with west 205 resin and slow hardener mixed with fiberglass flox. Really tough industrial strength stuff originally developed for wood working

Yep, this is the best way to go. As with any repairs like this, it is essential that the surface must be absolutely clean of all oil residue. A liquid epoxy like the West System is best and start by brushing on a thin layer and working it into the porous surface with a stiff brush will provide maximum adhesion then thicken the resin by mixing in a high strength filler like one of the West products or a combination of chopped fiberglass and aluminum filings until it has the viscosity of peanut butter, then just trowel it on over the wetted out surface and wait for it to harden.

 

[thenne1713]

You don't understand. Did you read all the solvents I tried? Soapy water takes of the oil and sawdust with a stiff parts brush, that's about it.

I learned a lesson one day, few years back, trying to clean, thought surely carb cleaner or lacquer thinner will let me skip a few steps= NO-NO, then tried paint thinner... then went to SIMPLE GREEN, AND WAS AMAZED.... now, do not even recall WHAT item I was cleaning, but SG did the trick that NOTHING ELSE touched...