Making a ripping chain

[aggiewoodbutchr]

Here's my first go at making a ripping chain similar to what Granberg has pictured on their website. You'll also see the new Maxx chain grinder in action. I looked closely at Stihl and Oregon 511a grinders at local saw shops before I purchased this one. From what I saw, this machine gives you more features, such as automatic clamping and ambidextrous adjustments, than others in it's price range.

I started with WoodsmanPro 33RP 3/8 .063 chain and marked the top plates not to be ground off.

Removed the tops. The diamond wheel paid off here. I tried it on a regular wheel first and it blued the tooth like crazy.

Tops gone.

You can see that I left about 1/32" of the top. If I had ground it off flush the remaining scoring tooth would have been way too thin at the top due to the rounded edge. (Thanks again for the tip, Lakeside)

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

The cutting teeth were ground at 0 degrees top plate angle, 55 degree top plate cutting angle, and 80 degree side plate angle.

I spot checked the cutter lengths as I went. When you get the feel of how to set each tooth, the grinder is reasonably accurate.

Right side

I didn't take any pictures, but the scoring teeth were ground in a similar maner. The angles were set at 5 deg top plate, 70 deg top plate cutting and 0 side plate. By checking with the calipers I made sure their length matched the cutting teeth.

Removed the wire edge by pulling a diamond laping stone across the tops.

Tooth grind compete

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

#3

The scoring rakers were set at .040" and cutting rakers were set at .030"

I set the grinder at 70 deg. and eased the front edge of the rakers with just a light touch.

Chain finished and cleaned up.

Total time spent on a 44" loop was about 4 hours but this includes learning curve time and fixing a few minor oopses. I think it should take half that next time.

ANYBODY feel free to offer critiques. This is new to me and I want to get it right. I'll put this chain to the test once I get my saw back.

Enjoy!

 

[thompson1600]

Nice write up. Let us know how they work. I've got the Stihl USG grinder and I've been thinking of trying to make my own Granberg style, but hadn't done it yet because of all the time (or my laziness). The Granberg chains I've bought have worked real well.

 

[CaseyForrest]

I am tossing around the idea of getting a grinder. I so love to hand file, but with the number of chains I have now, and the want to do exactly what you did, I may end up getting one.

Let us know if you notice any faster cutting times.

 

[hautions11]

Chains

Great write-up Aggie! I have only used Bauley's rip chain so far. Once I decide on 404 Vs. .375 I'll have to dig in to it a little more. Thanks for the Tutorial.

 

[woodshop]

Great write-up Aggie! I have only used Bauley's rip chain so far. Once I decide on 404 Vs. .375 I'll have to dig in to it a little more. Thanks for the Tutorial.

Ditto aggie... great write up with pics and lots of detail. So far like hautions, I have used only Baileys rip chain or on occasion, just strait chain in a pinch. You are way ahead of me (us) when it comes to making your own chain. As for time vs money saved, just curious what do you figure 2 hours of your time is worth?

 

[carvinmark]

I agree, nice details. It sure did take some time, but like you said, the learning curve. I'll be very interested in the results, hope you can cut longer between sharpening and it cuts faster. Should be back to norman grinding time on your next grind,I have never tried this yet but want to.
Mark

 

[smithie55]

excellent writeup, good job.
FYI
152 links of 3/8th .063 Granberg ripping chain from Toolcenter is $73.00 (that includes S&H)
What are you paying for 152 links of full comp chain?
What would happen if you used semi-skip and removed 1 top plate per 2 cutters? Would it make your cut surface rougher?
Milling around

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

Thanks for the comments everyone.

As for time vs money saved, just curious what do you figure 2 hours of your time is worth?

Are we talking work or play hours? These 142 link loops of chain cost me $28.40 plus H&S from Bailey's ($.20 per). I usually buy several chains at a time so lets say $3 per chain. 2 hours of work in the evening while drinking beer for a savings of $42 is acceptable for me. However, this is not my main concern in this venture. My goal is to find the most efficient chain for the work I'm doing. I intend to take notes of cut times, smoothness, sharpening, behavior of the saw, etc. to build sort of a performance data base. Results will be shared, of course.

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

What would happen if you used semi-skip and removed 1 top plate per 2 cutters? Would it make your cut surface rougher?
Milling around

I have some full skip for the 72" bar I may try but it would be the same pattern. If I understand your question correctly and you only removed 1 top per 2 cutters, all the remaining cutters would be on the same side. It might work for cutting a boat's keel but not really good for lumber.:biggrinbounce2:

 

[smithie55]

What would happen if you used semi-skip and removed 1 top plate per 2 cutters? Would it make your cut surface rougher?

I was thinking that you could take semi-skip chain and instead of having 2 cutters and 2 scoring teeth like on full-comp, that you could have say 1 scoring tooth to one cutting tooth on the left and the same on the right, but I was also thinking that that could possibly create a rough surface.
I may try that and see.

These 142 link loops of chain cost me $28.40 plus H&S from Bailey's ($.20 per). I usually buy several chains at a time so lets say $3 per chain. 2 hours of work in the evening while drinking beer for a savings of $42 is acceptable for me

That is significant savings.

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

I was thinking that you could take semi-skip chain and instead of having 2 cutters and 2 scoring teeth like on full-comp, that you could have say 1 scoring tooth to one cutting tooth on the left and the same on the right,

I think I follow what you are saying. The chain I made has a 2 scoring to 1 cutter pattern. 1 to 1 on each side is the same as 2 to 2 down the length of the chain.

Here my chain with a 2 to 1 pattern.

Here's a full comp chain marked in a 2 to 2 pattern.

Here's a semi-skip chain marked in a 2 to 2 pattern. As you can see it can be done in 2 different ways.

If I were to use semi-skip, I probably would choose the second pattern. It just seems more balanced for lack of a better term. As far as smoothness of cut, I don't think it would be significantly worse than full comp. I've used 30 degree full skip micro-chisel chain for ripping before and the finish was comparable to that of a ripping chain.

Personally, I would only consider a semi-skip chain if I were using a long bar (42"+) on a smaller (80 -90 cc) saw. I watched some guys mill a 48" oak with a 60" bar on an 066 before. They were using full comp ripping chain in good condition but the saw wasn't too happy.

 

[hautions11]

Bars

Aggie I PM'd you on your bars several times but did not get a response. Maybe your PM box is full.

Larry

 

[casey v]

I have made numerous ripping chains that cut fast and leave a very smooth finish. I take and older full comp chisel chain and refile it to a couple of degrees from straight across. I like to use older chains, because we all know that a cutter that has been filed back gets narrower which means less of a kerf and less power for the saw to pull the chain through the cut. Once the chain has been refiled, clean out the gullets and refile the rakers to .025 to .03 of an inch, and you are good to go. This is also real easy to refile with an Alaskan on the bar in the field. Quicker than swapping out a chain.:biggrinbounce2:

Mike

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

Where's the teeth?
:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[casey v]

Aggie, its more like gums. Works well for me. Now if I had a fancy new grinder like you, I would be dangerous.:hmm3grin2orange:

Mike

 

[woodshop]

My goal is to find the most efficient chain for the work I'm doing. I intend to take notes of cut times, smoothness, sharpening, behavior of the saw, etc. to build sort of a performance data base. Results will be shared, of course.

Aggie, wish I had time to do what you are doing, tweaking and experimenting with ripping chain. I just have too many irons in the fire, have to balance my "play" time with productive time in my woodshop ramping up for my fall shows. Guys like me appreciate your efforts though, and looking forward to field data on your regound chain when you get to it. I also like caseys idea of using older chains... doesn't look all that labor intensive, might give that a try myself on one of my worn out loops.

 

[casey v]

Woodshop,

Give it a try, I think you will be pleasently surprised. Should take about an hour to do depending on the nu mber of cutters that need to be refiled.

Aggie,

Please keep us posted, I am curious as to how the different grinds preform. Have you noticed any difference with the Granberg style as compared to say the Oregon RD or Baileys ripping chain? I have always wanted to try the Granberg style, but filing away half the top plate (by hand) didn't seem like fun.

Thanks Mike

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

Woodshop,

Give it a try, I think you will be pleasently surprised. Should take about an hour to do depending on the nu mber of cutters that need to be refiled.

Aggie,

Please keep us posted, I am curious as to how the different grinds preform. Have you noticed any difference with the Granberg style as compared to say the Oregon RD or Baileys ripping chain? I have always wanted to try the Granberg style, but filing away half the top plate (by hand) didn't seem like fun.

Thanks Mike

Dunno yet. My saw should be back this week. Do you have a dremmel tool? I'm sure one of those fine cutoff wheels would work for removing the top plates.