calamari
ArboristSite Operative
Might be me but that cut doesn’t appear to be parallel to the bar stud keyway.
I take your point but there was some parallax in the photo that gives a distorted representation of what is there. It's parallel, is a slot about .080" in width and has paint inside the slot indicating to me that it isn't a defect missed in any quality control process. Also the slot that goes over the studs is tapered slightly getting wider from front to back. At the front it is relatively close to the studs diameter but at the back it is .015" wider than the studs. This allows the tip of the 28" bar to move up and down 2 1/2" with only the two nuts tension keeping it in place. By lifting the tip when I tighten the bar all the slop is taken up and the bar is lodged against the studs so long as I only cut "down" with the bottom of the bar being the active edge. If I cut up with the top of the bar, which I often do making the final cut on a suspended limb or trunk for example the force tries to loosen the bar and move it through that 2 1/2" arc. Cut down, cut up, cut down etc. and pretty soon you've got a loose bar and maladjusted chain. Maybe I'm being too paranoid but I like stuff that makes sense and actually, I much prefer the old thumb oilers so maybe it is me.
I have been stuck in the house for a few weeks and had the rams so I went out and cut a disc off a Grey Pine stump about 30" in diameter to make fat wood sticks for fire starters. The saw seems to handle the 28" bar w/o any problem and cut that hard, gummy sap wood like butter. I also flooded it yesterday through inattention and by going through the correct starting process it started up with only about 3 extra pulls. I'm pretty impressed so far.
I take your point but there was some parallax in the photo that gives a distorted representation of what is there. It's parallel, is a slot about .080" in width and has paint inside the slot indicating to me that it isn't a defect missed in any quality control process. Also the slot that goes over the studs is tapered slightly getting wider from front to back. At the front it is relatively close to the studs diameter but at the back it is .015" wider than the studs. This allows the tip of the 28" bar to move up and down 2 1/2" with only the two nuts tension keeping it in place. By lifting the tip when I tighten the bar all the slop is taken up and the bar is lodged against the studs so long as I only cut "down" with the bottom of the bar being the active edge. If I cut up with the top of the bar, which I often do making the final cut on a suspended limb or trunk for example the force tries to loosen the bar and move it through that 2 1/2" arc. Cut down, cut up, cut down etc. and pretty soon you've got a loose bar and maladjusted chain. Maybe I'm being too paranoid but I like stuff that makes sense and actually, I much prefer the old thumb oilers so maybe it is me.
I have been stuck in the house for a few weeks and had the rams so I went out and cut a disc off a Grey Pine stump about 30" in diameter to make fat wood sticks for fire starters. The saw seems to handle the 28" bar w/o any problem and cut that hard, gummy sap wood like butter. I also flooded it yesterday through inattention and by going through the correct starting process it started up with only about 3 extra pulls. I'm pretty impressed so far.
