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What do you have? 6, 8, 10 pound? Some other size? Which one(s) do you prefer?

No splitting axes allowed in this thread!

6# True Temper and 8# Collins here. They both have a similar shape with a good sharp edge and modest taper. Haven't noticed much difference in performance between the two, I think the higher speed of the 6 balances out the heavier weight of the 8. I've noticed my accuracy with the 8 isn't as good.
 
GB splitting maul. Website says 7lb head but doesn't seem like it to me. More of a splitting axe IMO. Very well balanced, excellent "feel"...good for splitting all day. Gets stuck in wood a lot.

Oschenkopf "Big Ox" with 6.6lb head. Definitely works more like a maul to bust the tougher splits. I can't swing it all day but definitely longer than the Monster Maul. Feels like swinging ball and chain.

Monster Maul with 13-15 lb head.

If I had to pick one it would be the "Big Ox" because it is able to split more pieces than the GB, doesn't get stuck near as much, and 1/2 the weight of the MM.
 
GB splitting maul. Website says 7lb head but doesn't seem like it to me. More of a splitting axe IMO. Very well balanced, excellent "feel"...good for splitting all day. Gets stuck in wood a lot.

Oschenkopf "Big Ox" with 6.6lb head. Definitely works more like a maul to bust the tougher splits. I can't swing it all day but definitely longer than the Monster Maul. Feels like swinging ball and chain.

Monster Maul with 13-15 lb head.

If I had to pick one it would be the "Big Ox" because it is able to split more pieces than the GB, doesn't get stuck near as much, and 1/2 the weight of the MM.
Do you have any pics of the monster?
 
I've always used a 8# and then, couple years ago, I bought a 6# for my young son so he could learn to split. Turns out, I really like the lighter maul. I now use the 6# for about 80% of my splitting and the 8# for the meaner, knotty stuff.

Kind of off the specific subject, but if I have huge rounds, I'll start a cut with my saw and drive in a splitting wedge. Then flip the round over and, generally, the 8# is sufficient to split it apart. If not, I've also used a 12# monster maul when needed.
 
I saw a monster maul at a friend's place. He inherited it from the previous owner. I thought it was a joke, or a poor man's attempt to make a maul. I tried using it and ended up hurting my hands something fierce. I'm no stranger to vibration... I use air impact wrenches and air hammers frequently. But I can't imagine using that tool for any serious amount of time.

I've used a blunt Craftsman 6# maul for years. That's all I had for hand splitting next to the three wedges and an 8# hammer. This year I bought a splitting axe and what a difference.
 
My AOS is a Truper, 8lbs, made in Mexico with a really slick feature. The handle guard goes all the way through the head to the top of the handle and covers it. It has lasted WAY longer than my last AOS. Very good on vibrations and the steel is tough, I smack it with the sledge if it gets stuck. You can't tell, that poll is immaculate, and the sledge wears down, so all is good, I can keep it ground down.

My last one you guessed, broken handles, have to sand some random new one to fit, hope the wedges held, then within one season it was worn out again. With the price of handles, that's a new one every two years. Ta heck with that! Stoopid heads getting loose and going flying! I want good synthetic like the fiskars or built like this one.
 

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8# Truper here. Don't use it often but it does come in handy to drive felling wedges. Bought a steel wedge at the same time, have never used it.
 
I have a 6 lb maul with the same handle as the one zogger posted. In the wood I get, it works like a champ. I cut up a couple of 24"+ Douglas firs, and only had about half a dozen rounds that needed a wedge to bust them the first time.
 
13 lb sharpened very well with a 20141123_113841.jpg steel handle. IF that doesn't get the job done then it gets rolled to the side for the Log Boss or the skid loader splitter.
 
13 lb sharpened very well with a View attachment 393580 steel handle. IF that doesn't get the job done then it gets rolled to the side for the Log Boss or the skid loader splitter.
mn woodcutter,
I have one that looks identical. Even the same color paint. I sharpened it and slicked the sides up also. I set mine on the scale, it weighs 16lbs. I thought 20 years ago I had bought a 12 lber. Maybe that's why it feels so heavy....:surprised3:, I only use it as a last resort, the 6 lb True Temper is the go to when I am out in the field or want to work off some steam. If it's real easy I use the 3 1/2 lb single bits. I believe the newest one is a Truper. The other is an antique I put a new hickory handle in.
 
I have a Truper from TSC, probably go use it later today.

I also have a homemade one...big steel head, 1/2" plate vee, and steel pipe handle. You don't swing it, you lift and drop.

As I stated before, my days of seriously swinging a maul are behind me, shoulders won't take it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk
 
mn woodcutter,
I have one that looks identical. Even the same color paint. I sharpened it and slicked the sides up also. I set mine on the scale, it weighs 16lbs. I thought 20 years ago I had bought a 12 lber. Maybe that's why it feels so heavy....:surprised3:, I only use it as a last resort, the 6 lb True Temper is the go to when I am out in the field or want to work off some steam. If it's real easy I use the 3 1/2 lb single bits. I believe the newest one is a Truper. The other is an antique I put a new hickory handle in.
Interesting! My brother has one and he said his weighed in at 13 lbs so I took his word for it. Maybe I should check mine. I still think that with the right technique that big maul isn't much more work than the fiskars and with less sticks per round it's probably a wash.
 
Interesting! My brother has one and he said his weighed in at 13 lbs so I took his word for it. Maybe I should check mine. I still think that with the right technique that big maul isn't much more work than the fiskars and with less sticks per round it's probably a wash.


I don't know about you but I find the mm to be very tire some. I swing it like a regular maul. I have noticed those that I pick the mm up for have already been whacked numerous times, usually by the 6lber. :angry: Then you study it and position yourself and think about that crack in the grain. Yea one or 2 hits and I'll have her opened up...That turns into 10, now I'm pi$$ed, :mad:5 or 6 more. :dumb: literally....Well that's it, noodle the biatch and drag home to the splitter. Who has not done this before? I'm beginning to think the best use for the mm is to drive wedges. last week one night for about an hour I was out back on the wood pile working off some energy and I used the mm on 4 pieces I was not having luck with using the 6lber. I only got 2 to go. Wedged the other 2 and only one of them went. Still have to wrestle the last one onto the vertical splitter plate. A lot of wasted energy, but hey I enjoy it, or I wouldn't be doing it.
 
I only try hand splitting things I know will pop with one or two whacks. If its small and straight grain, good to go. Large or gnarly grain or knots, right to the hydraulic.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk
 
I don't know about you but I find the mm to be very tire some. I swing it like a regular maul. I have noticed those that I pick the mm up for have already been whacked numerous times, usually by the 6lber. :angry: Then you study it and position yourself and think about that crack in the grain. Yea one or 2 hits and I'll have her opened up...That turns into 10, now I'm pi$$ed, :mad:5 or 6 more. :dumb: literally....Well that's it, noodle the biatch and drag home to the splitter. Who has not done this before? I'm beginning to think the best use for the mm is to drive wedges. last week one night for about an hour I was out back on the wood pile working off some energy and I used the mm on 4 pieces I was not having luck with using the 6lber. I only got 2 to go. Wedged the other 2 and only one of them went. Still have to wrestle the last one onto the vertical splitter plate. A lot of wasted energy, but hey I enjoy it, or I wouldn't be doing it.
I had a big birch round once that really tested me. The kids were watching me during that splitting session and counting how many swings it took to bust up each round. It was one of those that had a little bit of punk in one part of it which literally acted as a shock absorber making it very hard to split.

62 whacks to halve it and another 13 to get it into eighths. But we got er done lol
 
image.jpg image.jpg I don't think a good 6# maul can be beaten. The 8# seems to tire one out if splitting any amount of wood. They are also harder on the handle due to the added impact.
The wooden handles with out the kerf in the end seem to be the best.
I like changing the wooden handles which last from 50 to 75 cords if you dont lend them out.
The aluminum wedge that is driven in the head has been reused for over ten years.
Sometimes I think a 4.5 maul of the same configuration would be a wicked instrument.
Be awAre of any maul made in China unless you want to get out an angle grinder.
These have been my findings and not necessarily the findings of others.
 
I had a big birch round once that really tested me. The kids were watching me during that splitting session and counting how many swings it took to bust up each round. It was one of those that had a little bit of punk in one part of it which literally acted as a shock absorber making it very hard to split.

62 whacks to halve it and another 13 to get it into eighths. But we got er done lol


Damn, and I thought I was stubborn:). Okay lets call it persistent, or maybe tenacious. At any rate, you got it! Good lesson for the kids. Teaches them determination.:chop:
 

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