McCulloch 250 versus Super 250

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Nickolas

Retired and messing around with old stuff...
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Hi folks,
Does anyone know of the best way to tell a regular 250 from a Super 250? I think the Super 250 has a primer on it along with the kill switch on top of the fan cover instead of the side. They usually have a round muffler instead of the old square one if you wanna call that a muffler with what I have seen. Some have black air filter covers and starter covers along with the black handle grip. Anything else??? Do all of them have the McCulloch carb with primer or is it different? The 250 is 80cc and the Super is 87cc I think... Is there any different numbers on the bottom that tell for sure? I have a regular 250 and I like it but it would be nice to have a primer for starting and a little bigger engine... One other thing I would like to know about how much compression would one of these saws have on a rebuild? My saw is around 125 with plenty of power but that seems low or does it?

Nick

PS - Is there really any noticeable difference in the motor being a tad bigger at 87cc?
 
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To answer your question, the difference is in the porting. There was an early super that was 80cc and had a yellow top. The presence of an auto oiler is a good clue. With the exception of the 610 series, McCulloch did not use the "super" badge without cause. If it says super, it means noticeable power upgrade.

Via Samsung Galaxy S3
 
Plus one on Saw Dr.'s comments. There are different numbers on the saw, but I don't have them to hand. Drilled top cover, auto oiler, choke flatback (not primer), porting, and stroked to 87cc.

Compression should be in the 140-165 range. 250s can be over-bored and an oversized piston fitted.

Within the "Super" ranges of McCulloch, the 250 had the largest spread between them in terms of an up-rating. Second would be the Super 44 that stretched the D44 from 72cc to 80, and the Super 44A that took it even further to 87.

Loves me the Old 87s!
 
Plus one on Saw Dr.'s comments. There are different numbers on the saw, but I don't have them to hand. Drilled top cover, auto oiler, choke flatback (not primer), porting, and stroked to 87cc.


Thanks for the info... Does it have both manual and auto oiler or just auto? I have an original owners manual for the 250 dated 1963 and it shows the saw with a primer button along with the oiler button. It too shows the switch on the top of the fan housing cover. Now one odd thing is in the spec sheet that shows this saw at 70.11cc --- Bore and stroke 2 1/8" x 1 3/8"


I have a 62481 and a 87666 for numbers on the bottom of my saw. I don't have an auto chain oiler so just a regular 250. Are either of these date codes anyone know of or how to decipher?
 
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Thanks for the info... Does it have both manual and auto oiler or just auto? I have an original owners manual for the 250 dated 1963 and it shows the saw with a primer button along with the oiler button. It too shows the switch on the top of the fan housing cover. Now one odd thing is in the spec sheet that shows this saw at 70.11cc --- Bore and stroke 2 1/8" x 1 3/8"

250 should be 2 1/4" bore x 1.375 stroke, Super will have 1.5" stroke. Super has auto with manual override oil pump. The auto is driven off of crankcase pressure pulses and the manual will force more through the circuit.

What carb is in that 250 Fraser? Adjustments on the right...
 
250 should be 2 1/4" bore x 1.375 stroke, Super will have 1.5" stroke. Super has auto with manual override oil pump. The auto is driven off of crankcase pressure pulses and the manual will force more through the circuit.

What carb is in that 250 Fraser? Adjustments on the right...

i wondered that when i got it. mark h. said that it's for the throttle linkage for the brush cutter attachment. which i wish i had.
 
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this is the inside bracket for the linkage. and my super has a choke carb . no primer.
 
I have three 250s from the first version, in the middle and one of the last of the breed. There weren't very many changes in production over the years. I use the latest one to use as a test bed for carbs, it has very good compression and hot spark. The other one is set-up as a "crap saw" to use on nastier items, it runs well and starts easy enough. I do have a very nice one that only cuts clean wood, i do love the sound it makes. I got it in one of those semi-massive shop clean outs, it was NOS, but stripped of recoil, flywheel housing, carb, airbox cover and everything on the driveside. I put it back together using new or very good parts, sometimes it is mistaken for a Super. The first saw I bought for myself was a 250, I was 16, it was a hard running saw, had a 30" roller and would very nearly match the 050 I bought later.

My precious
McC250003.jpg


the beater
PDR_1041.jpg


The carb tester and general purpose saw
shop002-1.jpg
 
I have three 250s from the first version, in the middle and one of the last of the breed. There weren't very many changes in production over the years. I use the latest one to use as a test bed for carbs, it has very good compression and hot spark. The other one is set-up as a "crap saw" to use on nastier items, it runs well and starts easy enough. I do have a very nice one that only cuts clean wood, i do love the sound it makes. I got it in one of those semi-massive shop clean outs, it was NOS, but stripped of recoil, flywheel housing, carb, airbox cover and everything on the driveside. I put it back together using new or very good parts, sometimes it is mistaken for a Super. The first saw I bought for myself was a 250, I was 16, it was a hard running saw, had a 30" roller and would very nearly match the 050 I bought later.


Thats a good looking saw. I was out cutting today with mine and she runs sweet. How do you tell the early to mid and late? I guess late or a super would have the auto oiler and 87cc engine What about the other two? I think some of the early examples have the clutch cover with the verticle lines above and below the MC logo. What about the numbers on the bottom can anyone decipher those? They must have made lots of these 250 saws as they are all over the place and easy to come by. I posted the numbers on the base of mine above. Are there any sources to get complete gasket sets and rings to rebuild one of these? How are those flatback carbs any good? I got one on a 200 parts saw. I have a running 200 but it isn't running all that good. I think the reeds are bent or there is dirt as it spits back too much.

Thanks,

Nick
 
Going by McCulloch model designation block numbers is pretty tough, 250s are one of the worst for this. Serial numbers ranges are the best best for a ballpark year of manufacture. Yes there are 100s of thousands of 250s.

250004.jpg

McC250004-1.jpg


I also have one marked with 200 X'ed out and 250 stamped under it. Can't find the photo just now.

I have two 250s with auto oil.
 
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