McCulloch Chain Saws

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That long bolt goes through the av under the oil tank. You will see when you try to put the bottom handle support on that ties the rear handle to the front.
 
That long bolt goes through the av under the oil tank. You will see when you try to put the bottom handle support on that ties the rear handle to the front.

Any idea on the other smaller one with the tab washer?

I was looking through your meticulous build thread on yours a while back stinky:clap::clap:

Mine will not be so pretty. I hope it will run good though. Just a few more things to bolt on and go through the carb and find a fuel line and carb gasket.
 
Any idea on the other smaller one with the tab washer?

I was looking through your meticulous build thread on yours a while back stinky:clap::clap:

Mine will not be so pretty. I hope it will run good though. Just a few more things to bolt on and go through the carb and find a fuel line and carb gasket.

That one either goes in the front of the recoil under the oil fill cap or in the middle of the rear av that's under the air box.
 
Started putting the PM800 back together tonight some more.

I have slept a few nights since I took it apart so where do these bolts go? I don't have the handle or bottom plate on. I'm hoping something to do with that.

View attachment 291987
It was a little dirty under the recoil
View attachment 291988

I just don't recall the bolt with the hold down washer on it? I have the ground wire attached to the forward tank A/V mount bolt?

View attachment 291989

That long bolt looks like the one that goes into the rear handle through the bottom plate. That small one looks like it would go under the oil cap like stinky said. There isn't a place for that small one in the airbox like the there is on the non-AV models.

Joe.
 
Under the oil cap? Can't sneak out to the garage now:msp_sad: Not sure about what it would hold down. I have all the recoil housing bolts in.
 
That long bolt looks like the one that goes into the rear handle through the bottom plate. That small one looks like it would go under the oil cap like stinky said. There isn't a place for that small one in the airbox like the there is on the non-AV models.

Joe.

I think you are right about that long bolt. There should be a rubber grommet that the bolt goes through.
 
I think you are right about that long bolt. There should be a rubber grommet that the bolt goes through.

hopefully the grommet is still there. I have had a bunch of different thing going on here as of late so trying to sort out a few saws at a time one forgets where things go:dizzy:
 
Evening Gents,I just bought a LG-6 geardrive off ebay tonight,anybody ever run one? It's supposed to be a runner,time will tell,it should be waiting on me when I get back from the Iowa GTG. If I like it I plan on chasing down more of the 10 series geardrives.
 
Struggle - the short screw with the tab washer definitely goes at the front of the flywheel cover, the cover is slotted at that point rather than a hole for the screw and the tab of the washer fits in the slot.

The longer shoulder bolt certainly is the one that hold the rear of the bottom skid plate to the rear handle, there should be a grommet in the bottom plate for the screw to fit through but if yours is missing, never fear, I have one in the attic.

You call that saw dirty??? You have a lot to learn. I have taken apart 10 Series saws that had the flywheel bound up from all of the oily sawdust packed in the flywheel cover.

Jim - I have a 2-10G, not an extremely powerful unit at this stage in its life (kind of like you and me) but a runner that is fun to play with. I will try to remember to bring it along on Saturday.

Mark
 
Well then maybe the bolt that I have in the recoil cover will go into the were handle then. Something has enede up where it doesn't belong:msp_sneaky:

I knew it belongs on the saw as I put everything I took off into containers specifically to this saw and sealed them. I was hoping the parts didn't reproduce as they have been in there a while:taped:

This saw should pull an 8pin rim with no problem with a 24" bar-correct me if wrong. As that is what I'm going to use if the chain is long enough to fit it.
 
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My uncle mentioned that the metering lever might be set too low. Do you have a part # handy for the larger filter?

On the carb, just go to the manufacturers website and download the service PDF. It will instruct you on the metering lever setting, initial needle settings etc.

The fuel filters generally have universal barb fittings and are typically hanging behind the parts counter desk at most shops...just tell them you need a 80cc range (I like them bigger than required) in-tank filter for your saw, they'll know what you're talking about (or should!)

Whenever I install a barb type filter, a fuel line through the tank bulkhead (or barb) or insert the line onto the carb barb/fitting I always use a little bit of 2-stroke oil to lube the surfaces and prevent a tear to the line, FYI.

-Andy
 
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Here is my PM800 I have had for a couple of years now. Story if interested was it came up on craigslist with several other mac saws A couple 1-4Xs and mini macs and this 800 and seems there was something else in the group. I made a deal with the guy over the phone and sent him a money order in hopes he was honest about it (Iowa people can be great to deal with) and then a friend in Avoca , Ia had a friend of his pick them up and after a couple of months then my friend brought them up to me.

800 had only 90psi. I just took it apart not to long ago as I got the NOS bar from a member here and figured before this Iowa GTG I better get after it. Another member sent me a cylinder. Got the piston on evilbay. New seals and such and back together now. Problems are chain brake is as I got it. Looks to have a stud broke off on the cover plus cover is cracked. I noticed in tear down the tank seem is exposed and as I figured is seeping fuel around that. Other wise it is running and oiling as it should. Will tune at the GTG. I do have some tank sealer stuff so I might have to see how that works on this saw as these parts seem to be getting tougher everyday to get.

Thanks to everyone here for parts and help along the way.

Here is a couple of photos, not the prettiest but the trees don't know any different.
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View attachment 292073
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There is a very short video of it idling in the Iowa GTG thread if interested.
 
Evening Gents,I just bought a LG-6 geardrive off ebay tonight,anybody ever run one? It's supposed to be a runner,time will tell,it should be waiting on me when I get back from the Iowa GTG. If I like it I plan on chasing down more of the 10 series geardrives.

Looks like you got a nice one. I bid on it but did not go to high. Ken [OMG] bid on it too.
I already have two of them.:msp_smile: Looks like the oil tank was changed at some time.
I have not run mine yet.
 
The obligatory RandyMac inspired big Mac on the tailgate pic.

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Photo0787_zps47abcd8b.jpg
 
Looks like you got a nice one. I bid on it but did not go to high. Ken [OMG] bid on it too.
I already have two of them.:msp_smile: Looks like the oil tank was changed at some time.
I have not run mine yet.

Thanks Cliff,this will be a GTG saw,I have been wanting one of these smaller geardrive Macs and they don't show up very often. I acutally bid quite a bit more than the final bid,as I said I wanted it.
I also traded for a Super 44a at the Hedgefest gtg that is supposed to be a runner. But between being a little sickly and all this inclement weather,I haven't been able to get it checked out. Mabey I can get some pics up in the coming days.
 
On the carb, just go to the manufacturers website and download the service PDF. It will instruct you on the metering lever setting, initial needle settings etc.

The fuel filters generally have universal barb fittings and are typically hanging behind the parts counter desk at most shops...just tell them you need a 80cc range (I like them bigger than required) in-tank filter for your saw, they'll know what you're talking about (or should!)

Whenever I install a barb type filter, a fuel line through the tank bulkhead (or barb) or insert the line onto the carb barb/fitting I always use a little bit of 2-stroke oil to lube the surfaces and prevent a tear to the line, FYI.

-Andy

I ordered a carb kit, filter, fuel line, and a few other things last night. I'm going to try replacing the filter, then the fuel line, and if I have to, putting a kit in it. I had assumed you were referring to a mcculloch specific part and not a generic barbed filter. I do pretty much the same with oiling the surfaces when installing line, though I just use whatever is handy, be it 30wt, atf, etc..

Thanks!
 
... This saw should pull an 8pin rim with no problem with a 24" bar-correct me if wrong. As that is what I'm going to use if the chain is long enough to fit it.

FWIW: The one I rebuilt I set up with an 8 pin 24" bar .375 and it runs fine. Later in a pinch I put a 33" bar on it with a full comp .375 and you can bury it in red oak. In fact, it kept cutting full bar length (though poorly) even after the DSP valve unscrewed and fell off. The only performance mods were a smoothing of the factory port castings, a coated piston and an old style muffler. I have just finished the engine rebuilt of another one in similar fashion, but I will set it up with a 7 pin 25" bar .404; I am expecting it to be a hoss as well.

... Here is a couple of photos, not the prettiest but the trees don't know any different.
View attachment 292072
View attachment 292073
View attachment 292074

...

Looks great to me. No trees around these parts care what my saws look like.

292073d1366742160-imageuploadedbytapatalk1366742155-519947-jpg


I should show this picture to my wife and kids. I get lots of grief over saving the little meat tubs to use when tearing into a saw. The long flat ones are good for storing 2 to 3 chains.

:msp_smile: Ron
 
FWIW: The one I rebuilt I set up with an 8 pin 24" bar .375 and it runs fine. Later in a pinch I put a 33" bar on it with a full comp .375 and you can bury it in red oak. In fact, it kept cutting full bar length (though poorly) even after the DSP valve unscrewed and fell off. The only performance mods were a smoothing of the factory port castings, a coated piston and an old style muffler. I have just finished the engine rebuilt of another one in similar fashion, but I will set it up with a 7 pin 25" bar .404; I am expecting it to be a hoss as well.



Looks great to me. No trees around these parts care what my saws look like.

292073d1366742160-imageuploadedbytapatalk1366742155-519947-jpg



I should show this picture to my wife and kids. I get lots of grief over saving the little meat tubs to use when tearing into a saw. The long flat ones are good for storing 2 to 3 chains.

:msp_smile: Ron


The rubbermaid containers against the wall work good for putting everything in and sealing them so parts don't get lost. That was when I found the couple of fasteners that I couldn't recall where they went. But everyone was right on thier location. The hillshire deli meat conatiners work great for hold the really small stuff. We save them all the time:biggrinbounce2:
 

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