McCulloch Chain Saws

[Steve NW WI]

Mark, were you still looking for a DE80? One in the trading post now: http://www.arboristsite.com/tradin-post/238548.htm

 

[heimannm]

Thanks Steve, I don't regularly look at the classified ads.

Now for a couple of other odd items:

Cylinder/crankcase for PM570; 1.812" bore like the PM55 & 10-10S with anti-vibe, 92693. I have a good piston & rings.

Cylinder/crankcase for SP70; 1.995 bore, anti-vibe, 92257. I have a piston & rings on hand.

I have lots of McCulloch parts, a few other saw & parts saws + dead presidents...

Thanks,

Mark

 

[67L36Driver]

'Tail' on this 1/2" loop looks longer yet.

 

[tomscott]

PM610 air filter leak...

Joey, Mark - Thanks, I will check all the air box penetrations. I may have to see what a metal cover costs for this PM610, it just doesn't feel like I have locked the filter down when I put the cover on; feels more like I have run out of threads on the captured T-handled nut on the cover and at most have just locked down the center of the filter. The cover still wiggles after it has been tightened, like it hasn't really pressed on the perimeter of the gasket.

So, make me feel better; how much sawdust can these saws ingest and still have healthy innards? Fortunately I haven't really worked it around any type of sandy or gritty dust. It was all fine sawdust, no big chips.

Family time came before saw time today, so in between earning a living this week I will try to get back to it.

 

[homelitejim]

Joey, Mark - Thanks, I will check all the air box penetrations. I may have to see what a metal cover costs for this PM610, it just doesn't feel like I have locked the filter down when I put the cover on; feels more like I have run out of threads on the captured T-handled nut on the cover and at most have just locked down the center of the filter. The cover still wiggles after it has been tightened, like it hasn't really pressed on the perimeter of the gasket.

So, make me feel better; how much sawdust can these saws ingest and still have healthy innards? Fortunately I haven't really worked it around any type of sandy or gritty dust. It was all fine sawdust, no big chips.

Family time came before saw time today, so in between earning a living this week I will try to get back to it.

A lot. I would not worry too much about it as long as it gets cleaned occasionally. I have pulled these saws out of the pits of hell and after much cleaning and a tear down they all look great on the intake side, even the one with the torn coffee filter air filter. The carb box was packed with saw dust and still had a shiny piston and cylinder.

 

[Nickolas]

Nick - Check e-bay and you will be able to find a copy of the McCulloch pin tail chain book. The biggest feature was an odd shaped "tail" on the tooth, didn't really impact the cutting action but did set the chain apart in the way it looked. The top chain has the pin tail tooth form, I don't know for a fact what the deal is with the odd shaped drivers.


Mark

Mark,
Thanks for the info. I see what it is now. I'll keep an eye out for that book.

 

[Nickolas]

Thanks for the pic. This might be the bar and chain in the post I read. I have a nice loop of McCulloch 1/2 inch chain that came on my 1-60 but now I see it isn't pintail. It has 508 on the link and PRO on the side of the tooth but no extension like the pintail. I guess it is a newer chain maybe. Anyway it is like new and works nicely on the old roller Mac bar. I take it this pintail chain is hard to find or any 1/2 inch chain? I'll have to keep my eyes peeled.

Nick

'Tail' on this 1/2" loop looks longer yet.

 

[OldDeadWood]

Mark H.

Mark

I owe you an apalogy. The starter rope I sent you is junk. If the stuff I sent you hasn't failed yet, it will soon, so stop using it.
I thought it was good rope but today I tried starting a larger Mac with it and after three or four pulls it pulled out, slapping me right along side the head. After checking it I found that it's great looking on the outside with junk in the center.
I'll be looking for some good rope and will send some with the next parts.

Again: Sorry Mark

ODW

 

[machinisttx]

Did a little thinking today on the bar adjuster question from the last page. The OE screw size is #10-24 tpi. I have no idea what the OE screw strength rating is, but socket head cap screws are grade 8 and probably a significant improvement in strength. You should be able to get them anywhere, and you'd still be able to use the other original parts. The threads might have to be extended a little on the cap screw, but that's not a big problem since small thread dies are inexpensive. Just be sure to use a threading die and not a rethreading die. The latter is non adjustable and made only to touch up rough spots in existing threads. They don't like having to cut full threads and the cutting teeth will normally break pretty quickly if used this way.

This is the easiest way I can think of to increase strength in the adjuster, and doesn't require anything in the way of fab or machine work. The next screw size up is #12, which is a little shy of .030" larger in diameter, after that is 1/4", and I haven't measured to see if a 1/4" screw would fit the hole and channel or if there would be enough(in my opinion) material left after drilling/cutting for clearance. Going with either of these would mean a new locknut would have to be sourced(should be easy enough), and a "nut-bar adjusting" would have to be machined. All of this being said, I'd still rather replace a bent screw than repair/replace a broken clutch cover. I also don't know that the clutch cover would be susceptible to this, it's only a suspicion based on experience with other, unrelated, things.

 

[joeymt33]

I'd like to at least see a better bar adjusting nut. Maybe twice the thickness at the most around the threaded hole and the tip could be slightly larger diameter and stick out just a little bit more too.

I guess I could try socket head screws and slot the top.

 

[rwoods]

Did a little thinking today on the bar adjuster question from the last page. The OE screw size is #10-24 tpi. I have no idea what the OE screw strength rating is, but socket head cap screws are grade 8 and probably a significant improvement in strength. You should be able to get them anywhere, and you'd still be able to use the other original parts. The threads might have to be extended a little on the cap screw, but that's not a big problem since small thread dies are inexpensive. Just be sure to use a threading die and not a rethreading die. The latter is non adjustable and made only to touch up rough spots in existing threads. They don't like having to cut full threads and the cutting teeth will normally break pretty quickly if used this way. Been there done that. See result below.This is the easiest way I can think of to increase strength in the adjuster, and doesn't require anything in the way of fab or machine work. The next screw size up is #12, which is a little shy of .030" larger in diameter, after that is 1/4", and I haven't measured to see if a 1/4" screw would fit the hole and channel or if there would be enough(in my opinion) material left after drilling/cutting for clearance. Going with either of these would mean a new locknut would have to be sourced(should be easy enough), and a "nut-bar adjusting" would have to be machined. All of this being said, I'd still rather replace a bent screw than repair/replace a broken clutch cover. I also don't know that the clutch cover would be susceptible to this, it's only a suspicion based on experience with other, unrelated, things.

Factory: Screw fails in severe repeated kickbacks.

Socket head: Nut fails in severe repeated kickbacks.

My next design will include a spring and/or a crush tube. In the meantime, I'll pay much more attention to my depth guide heights and avoid cutting in log piles. Ron

View attachment 300795View attachment 300796View attachment 300798View attachment 300799

 

[rwoods]

I'd like to at least see a better bar adjusting nut. Maybe twice the thickness at the most around the threaded hole and the tip could be slightly larger diameter and stick out just a little bit more too.

I guess I could try socket head screws and slot the top.

Bigger nut with longer tip is great as it keeps everything nice and straight and easy to line up with bar hole but as you can see above I sheared the tip off of mine.

Definitely slot you screw head as the allen head packs up with sawdust.

Ron

 

[heimannm]

I must be doing something wrong, I haven't bent a screw, stripped a screw, stripped the nut, or sheared off the adjusterer dog yet on any of my 10 Series saws. I do have several that came to me with various of the aforementioned modifications as well as ones with cracked clutch cover around the adjuster screws.

You will have to admit that when the 10's were replaced by the 600's they did make an improvement of the adjuster including mounting it to the saw rather than the cover.

ODW - don't fret it too much, it has worked for me thus far and I never seem to mind working on a saw anyway.

Mark

 

[rwoods]

Mark,

I could just reply that you are the true MAC Whisperer but that would hide the fact that my adjuster failures are mainly of my own doing. The industrial strength version might not be required for most. But I do think a longer tip would make life easier for every user of a cover mounted adjuster.

Ron

 

[joeymt33]

Mark,

I could just reply that you are the true MAC Whisperer but that would hide the fact that my adjuster failures are mainly of my own doing. The industrial strength version might not be required for most. But I do think a longer tip would make life easier for every user of a cover mounted adjuster.

Ron

Besides longer, there is a little room for it to be larger diameter too. The tip is what I'm talking about. I'm ready to order a couple dozen.

 

[heimannm]

It could also be related to the fact that a few of my saws have only cut a few cookies...

But I have also put a few through some paces and so far anyway no issues. I did have one ugly "tip contact" event with the PM800 (could be yours Ron) that left a bruise on my thigh for weeks, but the bar, chain, and adjuster came through unscathed.

Mark

 

[barneyrb]

Need a little help, I bought a Mac today without the air filter cover and can't identify it. Here is what I have found I have determined it *possibly* to be a Super or Pro mac 60, 70, or maybe even 80
1) Compression release
2) It does have a wide plate on the bottom front to back so I can't read the numbers
3) short bar cover not covering muffler outlet with chain brake
4) "Modern" Mac, not older 250 or so design.
5) Non adjustable carb (model plate in carb box missing)

I know this is a shot in the dark without pictures but weather is really bad here now and if anyone can get me close I've got to find a airbox cover and then make it a runner.

Thanks,
Randy

 

[heimannm]

If it is all original, you have already figured it out, SP60, 70, 80, or 81 are all anti-vibe saws with the wide cast plate on the bottom. No need to take the plate off, no numbers stamped on the 10 Series, if you have a model number on the saw it will be a tag fastened in the air box.

The Pro Mac models, 570, 850, 800, 805, Super 850 would all have the long clutch cover along with the wide stamped bottom and anti-vibe.

Try to measure the bore, then you will know better which it may be.

If you have a three shoe clutch, you have an original SP80 and we need to talk...

Mark

 

[barneyrb]

Mark,

I am doubting it is an 80, will all of that series have a non adjustable carb? That is what threw me off, I had decided it was a 70 up until then......

 

[Warped5]

Mark,

I am doubting it is an 80, will all of that series have a non adjustable carb? That is what threw me off, I had decided it was a 70 up until then......

I've got an SP81 that had a non-adjustable carb and an SP60 that still does.