brokenbudget
Addicted to ArboristSite
who want's old rusty ones when there are new one's going to be produced? you're too late. you should have started selling them off sooner:hmm3grin2orange:
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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who want's old rusty ones when there are new one's going to be produced? you're too late. you should have started selling them off sooner:hmm3grin2orange:
brokenbudget
Addicted to ArboristSite
ozflea
Good ol' BP Zoom 25-1
Not rusty my friend but NOS
promac850
formerly promac610
quiet you! you have 850's to cobble! pics or it didn't happen
Here's two. Polishing the top of the piston. Not quite 100% perfect, but still will keep carbon off of it.
I also worked over the exhaust port a little. Not gonna mess with the intake this time around. Just gonna match the plastic carb boot spacer to the intake port. For giggles, I think I might file the flywheel key a little to get a touch of timing advance.
Pics of the exhaust port will come soon. Cylinder is in the US cleaner as we speak. (type, I guess...)
Nogoingback
ArboristSite Operative
Nogoingback
ArboristSite Operative
Toes are crossed. Really anxious to get back to together after hearing it run for the first time.
ozflea
Good ol' BP Zoom 25-1
Hoarder!I'm a little late to the party with these things.
As I said I knew the day was going I wonder what sort of price the reproductions will run for ?
McBob.
Are we having fun yet boys and girls?
Took one step forward and two steps back with my 101 saw last night. Following Leeha's advice I bought some SS tig rod to make up a new throttle linkage, had to buy a pin point butane torch as well, that worked out O.K. I ended up removing the return spring from the BDC carburetor and will rely on the one in the handle of the saw but is really seems to work nicely.
While working on the oiler linkage I had to remove the tank mount bracket. one of the screw/nuts holding it on had stripped thread (overzealous securing it I guess) and in the process of getting it apart I broke part of the air box. Now I have to decide on making another, or trying to repair this one...
Carburetor came out of the USC looking pretty good, I put it together with a NOS metering diaphragm and the fuel pump diaphragms that were in it when I got it as they looked to be O.K. I do have a new kit coming for the BDC.
I still wonder who will start this one for me, does anyone bolt a plate to the bottom to step on when you start it like the old Pioneers? I may have to do something like that.
Mark
Took one step forward and two steps back with my 101 saw last night. Following Leeha's advice I bought some SS tig rod to make up a new throttle linkage, had to buy a pin point butane torch as well, that worked out O.K. I ended up removing the return spring from the BDC carburetor and will rely on the one in the handle of the saw but is really seems to work nicely.
While working on the oiler linkage I had to remove the tank mount bracket. one of the screw/nuts holding it on had stripped thread (overzealous securing it I guess) and in the process of getting it apart I broke part of the air box. Now I have to decide on making another, or trying to repair this one...
Carburetor came out of the USC looking pretty good, I put it together with a NOS metering diaphragm and the fuel pump diaphragms that were in it when I got it as they looked to be O.K. I do have a new kit coming for the BDC.
I still wonder who will start this one for me, does anyone bolt a plate to the bottom to step on when you start it like the old Pioneers? I may have to do something like that.
Mark
promac850
formerly promac610
Yes Mark, we are having lots of fun.
Stock 850 exhaust port on right, ported on left. This was a roughing with a carbide burr. Still have to smooth it out a bit and put a step in like I read about on another porting thread. Also need to get the few remaining aluminum shavings out of the cylinder.
Given it's raining today, this engine might be together. Then it's on to the stuff that bolts onto the outside of the block... cleaning and installing. Was gonna mow, but that's not happening unless the grass dries out.
As for the stock cylinder on the right, that's the one that is missing some plating. No, I am not gonna scrap it. I figure maybe even 10 years into the future, it'll be worth replating. Or maybe I'll figure out a sleeve and BB it with a slightly bigger piston for another crazy idea of running nitro on a pipe or something stupid.
Stock 850 exhaust port on right, ported on left. This was a roughing with a carbide burr. Still have to smooth it out a bit and put a step in like I read about on another porting thread. Also need to get the few remaining aluminum shavings out of the cylinder.
Given it's raining today, this engine might be together. Then it's on to the stuff that bolts onto the outside of the block... cleaning and installing. Was gonna mow, but that's not happening unless the grass dries out.
As for the stock cylinder on the right, that's the one that is missing some plating. No, I am not gonna scrap it. I figure maybe even 10 years into the future, it'll be worth replating. Or maybe I'll figure out a sleeve and BB it with a slightly bigger piston for another crazy idea of running nitro on a pipe or something stupid.
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It looks to me as though you have both raised and lowered the exhaust port, I will be interested in hearing how this unit performs.
Mark
Mark
promac850
formerly promac610
Given my last one had that done and it was widened, it should be okay. That one has lots of compression and will easily run a 20" bar in hard wood. With an 8 pin. My theory on this now is that there was one reason for the port to have that raised casting... anti reversion. Note in one of the more recent build threads on a Husky saw, the man doing the work mentions putting an anti reversion step in.
So to replace that casting the factory left, I will be putting a small step into the top and bottom of the port, about halfway out from the cylinder wall side of the port. Another experiment to see if anything can be had. The rest of them that I build will probably be left stock since there are some people out there that probably shouldn't run a ported saw, and others that would rather have an unmolested cylinder in case they wish to send it out to a more experienced saw porter.
This one will also receive minor timing advance, and will probably have a custom muffler outlet cover (with a hole in it, or louvers) since I've only got two of those from the bundle of three 850's.
This saw may receive a tuned pipe later. We'll see where it ends up going... if I wind up with enough extra in the chainsaw budget from selling some, I might send it off to get MM's touch to see what it'll do... we (maybe just I) want torque. Lots of torque. As in set it in the wood and rpm doesn't change hardly at all... with a 8 pin 3/8" on a 28" bar, in hard wood.
Bought another PM700 last night. Real loud without the muffler outlet cover on it. Doesn't bother me, but pops backed about 5 paces away because he couldn't stand how loud it was. It is missing the screen that keeps the flywheel from eating your shirt, but otherwise is in pretty good shape, very strong runner.
ethar
ArboristSite Operative
Anyone have any suggestion on recoil rope on a 10-10a. Have tried standard, the shock cord stuff, heavier braided poly rope still it breaks. Can't put any bigger diameter because of the plate. Compression on this thing is crazy high. Haven't tore it apart but can tell something has been done to it.
I suggest you check the cylinder for the presence of bar oil. Ron
ethar
ArboristSite Operative
That was my first thought Ron already checked that all good there. Have not checked the screen on the muffler yet going to give it a once over in the morning. I couldn't ask for a better running saw. Not much slows it down.
brokenbudget
Addicted to ArboristSite
the only reason you can't pull it over is bar oil in the cylinder. it doesn't take much, as in it won't be pouring out of the plug hole. not yet anyway. you say you didn't tear into it, and haven't checked the screen yet, so you haven't had the exhaust off. chances are the piston is wet with bar oil.
I have a 10-10 with really nice compression, all the time, and no bar oil in the cylinder. Regardless, a 10-10 shouldn't create enough comp to "break" a pull cord. Your rope issues could be several things. Is it cutting at the grommet as it exits the recoil, is the knot pulling out, ... ? Where is the rope breaking (or cutting) and is it the same place all the time?
Virgil - Make sure you press the compression release before each pull on the starter. If that is not enough, you may have remove the compression release valve and the small socket head cap screw and clean the ports very carefully. The manual says use a drill bit (5/32"?) with your fingers only to clean it out.
Mark
Mark
ethar
ArboristSite Operative
Figured it out it's getting cut somewhere in the assembly compression is a nice 140. I'm going to take the recoil apart tomorrow and look it over.
promac850
formerly promac610
Got the exhaust port steps cut in, and then polished the port with 120 grit, then let the Dremel eat at it with 800 grit lapping compound on a small buffing wheel.
Still having trouble getting my hand to be as steady as MM's. The port is slightly lopsided... :bang:
Also got her assembled. Yes, the crank seals are good, and I used 1194 this time around for sealing the crankcase halves, as well as the four main bolts, around the bolt heads. Used #78 o-rings for the replacement 'washers' under the bolt heads. And I put new rings in while I had it apart.
Still having trouble getting my hand to be as steady as MM's. The port is slightly lopsided... :bang:
Also got her assembled. Yes, the crank seals are good, and I used 1194 this time around for sealing the crankcase halves, as well as the four main bolts, around the bolt heads. Used #78 o-rings for the replacement 'washers' under the bolt heads. And I put new rings in while I had it apart.
Warped5
WingNut
Christmas in August
At least now my PM800 will be 'complete' ...
At least now my PM800 will be 'complete' ...
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