McCulloch Chain Saws

[fossil]

Up until a short while ago, Walbro had all that info on their website. They have since removed all that info. Not sure why but it was nice to have access to.

I will say that the WJ carbs on the PP455 - 655 saws (72 - 99cc) are all the same WJ model. Maybe the stock motors are very forgiving on carb size.
I did put a larger venturi 10-10 carb on a PM 55 so I had the adjustable high jet, but I couldn't see any difference.

 

[Brian Thacker]

Would not think their would be any performance difference either but having the high speed adjustment would be a plus. Anyone got a SDC 37 cheep?

 

[fossil]

You really have to look at the hole in the green spacer under the carb. If that's smaller than the venturi in the carb, you won't flow anymore air.

 

[super44]

Yellow fever strikes again, had a 5-49 follow me home today from an auction. Power head, bar, auger attachment and 2 augers. It seems complete but it will be a few weeks before I get a chance to really play with it.

 

[BigBlue]

Alright, what is the secret to successfully re-winding the recoil spring on a Pro Mac (like a 10-10S, 10-10A, 700)? I managed to do it on my 10-10S but I picked up a 10-10A recently that needed a new recoil pulley and I'm having issues repeating that success. I have a board with a nail in it that I use to wind the spring tight enough to fit in the recoil housing but I just can't get it back in there and successfully hook the end of the spring into the frame.

Thanks,
Rob

 

[fossil]

Alright, what is the secret to successfully re-winding the recoil spring on a Pro Mac (like a 10-10S, 10-10A, 700)? I managed to do it on my 10-10S but I picked up a 10-10A recently that needed a new recoil pulley and I'm having issues repeating that success. I have a board with a nail in it that I use to wind the spring tight enough to fit in the recoil housing but I just can't get it back in there and successfully hook the end of the spring into the frame.

Thanks,
Rob

Hook the spring in place and then turn the starter case and feed the spring in as you turn it

 

[heimannm]

For the LH start models, I do what Tim describes above, just wind the spring into the starter housing rather than trying to wind the spring up and insert it.

On the RH start models the starter housing is too deep for this so you really have no choice but the wind the spring up tight then slip in it place using a pair of needle nose pliers.

For the large frame McCulloch saws, LH or RH start I always wind the spring in the starter.

Mark.

 

[BigBlue]

Hook the inner nub/hook on the pulley or the outer/main hook onto the frame?

 

[heimannm]

I always start from the outside and wind in. Sometimes the inner hook is not exactly where it need to be to engage the pulley. On the 10 Series you can locate the pulley wherever you need it to engage the starter spring, then position it so the shaft can be inserted though the pulley.

On the large frame saws it may be necessary to bend the inner portion of the spring a bit to get it to line up with the starter pulley.

Mark

 

[MacAddict]

Does anyone know the part number # to a mcculloch CP-70 muffler? Me and my dad Macgary didn't have a good experience last night with the whole bottom catching on fire. But it runs! Haha so needs muffler bad I don't want my dad getting hurt. Or me so thanks.
Macaddict

 

[BigBlue]

Thanks for the tips on the recoil. I was able to get it re-wound OK last night. I'm hoping it stays together this time!

On to a new challenge. The gas cap on this old 10-10A is missing all the valve stuff - spring, valve, metal (brass?) tube/holder. I know what duckbill valve works and I'm sure I can fashion a workable spring from something around here, but what could I use for the brass tube that everything fits in?

Thanks,
Rob

 

[heimannm]

BBLue - best bet is to find another cap that has the parts. Since yours is missing (did you look in the bottom of the tank?) it has probably been gone through a few time and the body has worn/stretched to the point it would not hold the insert any longer. If you have access to a small lathe, make a new part that will fit.

MAddict - you can find a complete NOS muffler on e-bay but it is not cheap. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-McCullo...559427?hash=item2a6e347a83:g:oeEAAOSwaB5XqpE4

Something in the back of my brain is telling me the same muffler does not work on the 54/57cc saws and the 70 cc saws but I may simply be confused in my old age.

I have an overstock of the baffle that goes in those upright mufflers so if anyone has a need let me know.

Mark

 

[BigBlue]

Thanks heimannm. You're probably right that the cap's opening would be too loose. It was on the PM700 I got. But I did have the pieces from that one (in the tank as you said) and was able to epoxy things back together. On the 10-10A the pieces are not to be found. The replacement cap assembly is around $35. Hard to swallow when I got the whole saw for $20. :-(

This 10-10A spits oil like crazy. Is that a sign of a bad oil pump or just needing adjustment? Seems like it dumps it out when just idling (no chain movement) and sprays it all over once the chain moves.

Rob

 

[heimannm]

The automatic oil pump operates off crankcase impulse so they do pump oil when the saw is just idling. The automatic pump is adjustable, remove the cover from the oil tank and the adjust screw is on the top of the automatic pump, normally has a locking nut.

CW reduces the flow, CCW increases.



Mark

 

[BigBlue]

Ah, thanks. Same as the PM700 then. Cool.

 

[MacAddict]

Well that's not gonna happen.. At 60$ ha anyone got one used??

 

[svk]

Well that's not gonna happen.. At 60$ ha anyone got one used??

I think I might. Drop me a pm if I haven't gotten back to you by tomorrow morning.

 

[svk]

Can anyone confirm if a 10-10 muffler will work for @MacAddict ? I can save him some coin if it will.

Mark's link shows a muffler that works for both the 54 and 70 cc saws so I would think but shipping these days is pretty expensive so want to be sure.

 

[Ginger15]

Whats the worth of a 1-62? Looks to be in great condition, little to no paint missing. Runs good.

 

[rwoods]

Today was opening day down at the woodlot. Bryan came better equipped than me - PM800, 1010A and PM6A. I brought two 800s and some off brand stuff. Should have taken it as an omen when Bryan yelled to me just as I was removing a saw from the truck - too late a complete tank of bar oil down my pant leg and boot. Flippy cap.

I don't have any pictures from today. Somewhere along the way, Bryan's 800 suddenly lost all compression. We are hoping it is not hurt bad as it is the strongest 800 I have ever run. Bryan measured the compression a few weeks ago at 185 psi - Q-port notwithstanding. His 1010A ran very well. Bryan has been very helpful to me and I have been trying to reduce my project load so I gave him two project PM6As that I had. He just finished one. Starts and runs great. It wears a 14", 1/4" pitch hard nose. I used it to cut a 13" red oak stick. Very impressive. He graciously offered to give it or the other once rebuilt back to me, but I declined. I think he has a better use for them.

Picture below is from a recent post of mine to the "post pictures of your wood pile" thread over in the firewood forum. Bryant and I put a good size dent in the pile shown just to the right of the middle of the photo.

Ron